jnjdragracing

Sounds kinda of expensive to me. It is a lot of labor involved. Maybe if you can do some of the labot he would be cheaper. Like remove the seats, carpet, etc. Remove the tar/fiber pads etc. I have installed some floor pans in a mustang before and it took me about two full days to to. This is before I had a plasma cutter. I think if you shoped around you could fine someone to do it cheaper. IMO..... John

I have also used sleeves in sbc 350 and 400, have not had any issue. I have a Great machine shop that does this for me. I have ran Nitrous on these blocks as well with out any issues. It is important to get a good machine shop to do it. Tempature have not noticed any difference. John

Thanks for the info, We will be looking closely at our setup. Sorry for the mishap and glad all is okay. It looks like the Ron Tyler setup is the way to go. I will pass this info to my brother Jerry. Need to get it back together, March is approaching fast. John

Yes they are the factory frame rails. By using the front motor plates in addition to the mid-plate, kind of tie it all together. So far have not twisted the so called frame yet. It is pretty stought. john

I would say the later model truck.

The balancer in the photo is for a 350 sbc. I called my machine shop and verified it as well. John

Remember sbc 350 are internal balanced. Yes the 8" balancer will work as long as it is for a 350. Remember they also made 8" balancers for sbc 400 which are externally balanced. My rule of thumb is 6.75 are 350 internal and 8" factory balancers are external for 400. Need to be damn sure it is not a 400 balancer before installing it. If you turn the balancer over, look for a counter weight, if it has one then it is for a 400 sbc. John

Yes, I take the cheisel at an agnle and try to grt it to dig in the stripped nut with a hammer and try it to turn, if that fials where it starts to dig in I place it on the nut and beat some and it usually will punch through the nut with out damage to the thread, now sometime I will have to straighten the stud back. I had to do this last week on a sand rail project I am working on, all the exhaust nuts were rounded off. I had to do it to 4 of of them and did not damage the threads. Remeber to sharpen the cheisel. John

If they are nuts I would try some pb blaster, it is the best for getting in and loosing. If that fails Then I have to resort to a chisel and hammer and try ti noth it and turn it that way, if not then split the nut in half. Hopefully you can get to them. John

Hey John Scott, If you like I can take control of your pc and take a look at your issue. I am a computer guy and do this stuff for a living. Mainly Networks and Servers but also do pc's. Just give me a shout. You can reach me at work at 803.744.8092. This is my direct line. Hours are from 8:30am to 5:30pm eastern time. John

Well we mostly run the headers uncapped so there is a lot of noise and vibration, when the mufflers are on it is not too bad. Still a lot of rumble I guess due to the cam, it idles at 1000rpm so you know more race oriented than street. But at least the so called frame is tied together with no flexing that we can tell. John

Well I happen to be looking at the stored photos on the camera and found some that hopefully will work for you. Take a look below. The one of the engine compartment, shows the mid-plate attached to the frame rails and also you can see the tabs I made up front that I bolt the front motor plates to. You want to use two bolts when bolting them, so you will not get any pivot / rocking motion. I hope these help. John

Well of course I bring my camera to work to charge the battery, well I left it at work, go figure. I will take photo's tonight and post. Sorry for the delay. John

I researched Jegs and the front plates I used were item# 247-4006. Here is the link. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/categoryitem_10001_10002_19469_-1_56709 I will take some photos tonight. John

I just bought the motor plates from jegs. They sit directly above the frame rails. I made some tabs and bolted them up. I will take some photos tomorrow night the best I can. John

Mike go to www.jnjdragracing.com/carphotos.htm, look at the titled section zcar with the 412. You can see more of the engine with the front motor plates installed. I will put the camera on charge tonight and will take more photos later in the week. Having to rush on a Christmas project for a friend.

We only use the headers, we run a front motor plate and also installed a mid-plate also to help tie the car together. I made a transmission mount. If I can be any help let me know. Will be glad to take some photos if needed. John Ps. when we mocked up the motor I set the block in place where the #1 sparkplug was about center of the front a arm. Then postioned the front motor plates and made tabs for them. Ground clearence is not an issue, to me plenty of room under the car.

Can't wait to see them David, must be making some extra cash to have three projects going........ A great way to bring in the New Year..... John

Did you chase the head bolt threads prior to reassembly? If you are using a good set of head gaskets you should not have to retorque them. But you always chase the head bolt threads. This cleans them up, and if you did not maybe the head bolt thread had some corrosion and effected the torque specs. It probably has blown the head gasket, so retorquing will not help. Reccomend the nitro seal head gaskets made by victor reinz, they have not failed me in nomal engines. Presently I have to use copper head gaskets. Might consider using head studs in place of bolts. Hope this helps. John

Great job polishing, should have no problem selling them. John

Thanks, I will.

Hey guys any of you have a spare Nintendo wii for sale. My son wants one for Christmas and of course they are all sold out every where and on ebay they are going for almost double the retail price of $249.99. I do not mind paying a little extra for it but don't want to get raped. Any help Thanks, John

Yes, we are running a 28x9 MT slicks with stock springs,we did roll the inner fender lip.I tried a 275/60 MT drag radial but could not make them hook. I am going to try a 28x11.5 MT ET street tires next.Zgad is running ET streets also.jerry

Our car makes a sound like that when the slicks are to low on air pressure ( I run 10#)or the car is hazing the tires. The Zebra is a Missile, you might want to give it another nickname like NASA. In the first video did the transmission give up? Are yall still using a turbo350? Anyway it was a GREAT PASS. jerry.

If you ever have heard a dragster run it makes a similiar noise. I think it is chassis flex, but with the short wheel base of the Z car I would say the tires are slipping. I would try a wider slick like a 9.0. This would let you know. John Oh yeah, it is because of using too much Nitrous......