OldAndyAndTheSea

Well today was a good day. Air compressor is once again up and running. SO relieved, I really missed my air tools. Especially my cut off wheel! I finally chopped the driver's fender tonight. Installed with fender welting. Finally looking legitimate. No more fender lips peeking out from under there. Tomorrow I'll follow up with more after work.

Doh! Late night posting strikes again!

The afm will fit physically..... BUT....... you must match the AFM to the ECU (electrically) Which I am pretty sure in your case the 77 AFM is not compatible with the 76 ECU. There is a list of the compatibility combinations somewhere...

You're near my neck of the woods. An hour south or so. But yeah, definitely go West. What New York publicly offers in terms of Z cars is NOT worth it... I bought my car from California, and the condition of the body has saved me hundreds of dollars/hours in potential rust repairs. And that's after spending 1000 dollars to ship it. But man was it worth it. I've since bought 2 New York specials.....The time wasted on rust repair so far on each is outrageous when compared to what's sitting relatively preserved in the Arizona desert, for likely around the same price.

Well I know what I'm reading for the next month. Thanks!

My 240's doors and door panels are definitely different than my early 260's The shape is the same, but the mounting points, and the door lock pulls are in different locations.

Got the tires mounted today at lunch. And here's what I did to tease myself when I got home a few minutes ago. Fenders still aren't cut....Still no compressor. Oh woe is me. But, I'll figure something out. Regardless, the car is going to look gooood on the ground.

Why not cut and swap the roofs completely? If it were my car, that's what I'd do. Patching, unless done extremely well, will be difficult to restore the gentle curvature our rooflines have. Not saying it can't be done, but get a GOOD body guy. I'd cut the non sunroof roof section, cut at the a pillar, and the lead seams in the rear, then swap. That's what I believe would yield the best results, in my opinion. EDIT: Haha, Blu, Jinx!

Yep, I'm about to order my coilover kit soon too. It is a bad time to decide to build my own.... Stupid struts... Looks like I have a lot more research to do.

Yeah, I DEFINITELY recommend them. After haphazardly mounting my flares a couple different times in the past, I was ready for an acceptable solution. Harbor freight sells a 45 piece Rivet nut installer deal for 15 bucks. Unfortunately they don't carry the 1/4 - 20 Rivnuts aside from the 10 you get in the pack. I ordered 25 more on Amazon and they should be here by Friday.

Thanks Lance! I love how it turned out. Meanwhile... More trouble in paradise... Long story short: changed compressor belt, flipped 'on' switch, lots of omitted details, no compressor........ So needless to say, I'm getting my electric motor repaired... But it isn't ALL bad. Thermostat housing #4, as far as I've tested so far, is a success, but I won't know 100% until I bolt it up and fill the car up. I finally gave in and outsourced the work to my machine shop. 15 bucks later, I was in business. Why didn't I do this sooner?! And these babies came in the mail. About time, I waited 6 months for the color...I'm happy! And now I'm finally getting around to properly cutting my fenders and mounting my flares (correctly) The flares, until this point, were held on mostly with hopes and dreams. They were also ALL on the wrong side of the car, which some of you probably have noticed haha. So I've taken this time, now that I have my wheels, to remedy this. Driver's side rivnuts installed. More are in the mail, so I'll have to wait to finish the rest by the time I mount my tires. Test fit: The fit is wonderful compared to the backwards previous version! 1 down, three to go. But, I can't cut the fender(s) until I once again have compressed air, so again, more waiting...

My FIRST thought. Red with silver would look okay...Not my thing though. My SECOND thought. That cheap ass vinyl/leather dye is going to fade like a mother.

I'm down to be nice.

Hammerite

It looks to me that he isn't atomizing the paint fully. Either inadequate air supply, gun adjustment problem, or a myriad of other things leading to that. User error being up the list as well. What's your air supply looking like? How big is your compressor? How much CFM does it put out? Are you using a HVLP gun? If so, these often require much more CFM to properly atomize paints than the average household compressor can efficiently put out. But the paints too thin, and the particle size is too large. Either it's the air, the gun, or the user.

It looks like it broke on an aftermarket weld. At least to me.

Also, the strength is entirely dependent on the fiber orientation. So, for example, if you wanted torsional strength, going with a bixial fiberglass would be nice (fibers are at -45 and 45). Taylor the fiber directions according to where you want to increase the strength.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97180-luna-the-cause-and-solution-of-all-my-problems/ It becomes relevant to your interests around page 2 I'm a couple days work away from being able to turn the key. But I'm in school so I have to wait til March to start it.

If you haven't already, take a look at my build thread. You're doing the exact same thing I have been. Good luck. I'm not quite there yet.

Parts car eBay cragislist Parts are all over, you just need to know what you're looking for.

There are lots of debates on whether a cage is safe in a road vehicle. Padding or not. I'm sure your Dad has, but if not, he should really look into it. Personally, I would never put a cage in any vehicle that wasn't a full dedicated FIA racecar. Just my .02, only trying to help.

I had no luck with the super duper msa gasket, on my last attempt. Spent ALL day making sure everything was clean and straight too..Still leaks, back passenger corner... But, I chose to do it "the right way" without any gasket material (like RTV) against the machined block surface, and the top of the pan.....I won't do that again.. I'm going to either lightly RTV both sides of the gasket now, or I've also heard that certain marine greases do NOT allow permeation of oil. So I may look into that avenue as well. Another thought was to make a metal trim ring that surrounds the WHOLE pan, instead of halfway, as the OEM pieces run. Interested to see other thoughts on the dark magic required to keep the oil on the INSIDE.

Sounds like it's a road car? Why not opt for a nice (safer) roll bar, with harness provisions. Why do you feel you need a cage? Unless helmets are involved, I'd get a nice scca roll bar.

Get creative with 90 degree elbows. I'll see if I can find a picture of my mounting bracket and setup for my walbro. The hose leading from my tank to my pre filter g3 is the exact hose youre currently using. Just don't make it bend more than it wants. A couple brass pex fittings can do wonders. I made this bracket, and you can clearly see my non EFI 7/16 leading from the tank to the filter. No leaks, no cavitation yet. I'll probably upgrade to AN lines eventually though. Either way. Some pictures of what worked for me. Are you 100% you have a fuel pressure issue?

It's all about the tune. If you're using the OEM engine management, you will most certainly detonate (whether or not this will destroy the motor entirely is questionable/probable) But with a standalone ECU, like megasquirt, haltech, etc.... You could certainly tune a high compression motor for a turbo application. A bit of advice: LIVE in the FAQ section here. Especially the turbo/supercharger FAQ. All the info is there. You just need to do a little digging.