hoov100

If you like having every mod you can think of as bolt on and love the looks go for it, but if you like an uncommon car, that takes work to get it nice and a car you won't see 100 of when you go to a classic car meet and if you like a car that has alot of character and you can form an emotional attachment to, then stick with the datsun. That's what makes datsuns unique, is that there is no set standard for them, very few aftermarket companies make parts for them and that when you have a good chassis, you have a clean slate to do WHATEVER you want.

What are you're corner weights and what are the ride heights front and rear? I'm suspecting weight transfer issues. (obviously) What I'm interested in, is if you have solid mounted your sway bars to the control arms, because it almost sounds like the sway bar is not doing its job and is allowing the weight to transfer to the outside corner of the car and is also unloading the inside rear suspension causing even more unwanted weight transfer.

Are you looking for the early style center console, or the newer one?

I'm pretty sure, any mustang, camaro, or z31 T5 oil seal will work.

There is a saying among biologists and cellular biologists..etc that "the strongest organisms are often the simplest"

That would be an interesting concept to build camshafts that way, where the lobes and bearing surfaces just stack into place, instead of it being cast then machines as one piece.

If the weld or the DS tube itself is breaking, I would take it to another driveline shop. The ujoints should break well before the tube or the weld on a car.

I would love to see how you came to that conclusion. The shells alone are almost at a 7 pound difference. and even with the stock s13 gauges and wiring harness, it's still almost a 13 pound difference between the two.

exactly.. "stock" the way tech works for stuff like these, is that they will do a general safety tech, weigh it and usually give the car a basic visual inspection, if he's in the top three the officials will decide what point of the car they want to inspect, which is usually the carbs, tires, weight or rear end. Personally, if you can get away with it, is to run a modified vg30e with a carb. the only problem, is that you need the factory ECU to control the spark.

If you can find one in the states, expect to pay about $300 or more for just the clock and another $200 for the oscillator.

I think rodent fits better.

I wish, I had those rules for the street stock my brother runs. So you're looking at a built L30, 13:1 C/R built head, forged rods and pistons, lightened crank, built head with a massive cam, VDL built two barrel holley, "stock" aluminum 10 pound flywheel with an unsprung 6 puck clutch and a z32 trans with a welded 4.32 rear gear?

I really like those set of rules.....

wow, tripple post. do I get a prize?

......

I hope you don't plan on putting large horizontal loads into those spokes.

The way the factory did the rear lights is far from safe on a car that gets driven at night. When I did my wiring harness, I wired them all up with the three wire socket minus the backup light, so the brake light would have two bulbs and the turn signal would be illuminated whenever the running lights where on. I would highly suggest if you have the skills and time, to make a new wiring harness for the running and headlights and put everything on relay's directly connected to the battery.

You can surface the side of the calipers quite a bit on the yota calipers, as they have alot of "heat sink" material. If someone has a junk S12 caliper, you should cut it in half and go through the middle of one of the outside pistons and post pics.

go on ebay and try and find a used pedal setup with the speedway master brake line kit and the metric to AN adapters. You won't need anything other then stock brakes for an 1/8 mile oval, you can do a rear disc conversion for simplicity, but you won't really need anything else.

what year car you need the strut for?

Where do you live? I have a spare good 71c sitting in my back yard, I'll let you have if you come pick it up.

Lol, I remember this one, one of the HOA board members had this great dane that liked to poop on my lawn when she would walk him and she never cleaned it up. So one day I scooped it up with a shovel walked down to her house and launched it at her front door. Never again did that dog go anywhere near my lawn.

Unless you're building a track car, or want some absurd large HP number in a street car, just stick with stock, unless you have to bore the cylinders.

apparently, they did something along the same lines stock. The car was obviously built to take mostly front and rear crashes, as it was driven on the street for some years, with full functioning doors, radio, power windows, mirrors, lights..etc (even has a glove box) so I'm sure they must have put some thought into side impact protection. and would have thought of that. It's looking like I'm gonna have to add a couple support bars underneath, when I "x" the rear down tubes and add door bars.

stupid computers!!