alainburon

Well after 3 years in the body shop and no end in sight I decided to take my car unfinished. The car is painted but the engine bay is not to the standards it should be for this build. Therefore I dropped of the car at a restoration shop to have the engine bay redone as well as wet sand and buff the car and fit all the glass and weather-stripping. I also decided to step up to a better fuel system so I went with the Aeromotive Platinum series A1000 pump and matching components. From left to right AN10 shut off valve, 100 Micron Filter, A1000 Pump, 10 Micron Filter. Also purchased an Aeromotive regulator to finish it off. The feed to the engine will be AN8 and return to the tank will be AN6. This set up should deliver plenty of fuel for my application not to mention it looks killer in chrome. Bling, Bling……

Great, can't wai to see what it looks like.

Great, I'm glad you were able to get what you needed. Of course you can ask me any questions. My car will be back soon and then I will start putting it together. It is now at the Uhpolstery shop getting the headlinner, rear shock towers and door pannels covered in leather. One thing I suggest with the OS Giken unit is to use their oil. It's not cheap but well worth it from what I hear since it is designed to work with their clutches. I have a build thread here in case you want to read through it.

I have the OS Giken Superlock in my longnose R200. I had Beta Motorsports build it for me with all new bearings and seals. I don't know much about how it was put together. John Coffey may be the person to ask about this set up as he was the one who built it for me. I was told those locker units are really strong. It looks like we are running similar set ups. Same transmission, similar hp motors, silmilar suspension and brakes. Can't wait to see it come together.

I agree, the problem you run into is these dyno racers that all they concern themselves with is how much power they put down on the dyno yet they can't use most of it on the street or track due to their inferior set up. Most of them are just punk kids. I remember the days when people would ask what numbers you pull in the 1/4 now the first question is how much power does your car put to the rear wheels like that's going to tell them how fast your car is.

Battery cut off is always and option however all power drains can be found. All you need is a good multimeter, electrical drawings of the car in question, some familiarity of how the new engine was wired into the existing electrical system and a lot of patience. Electrical/electronics knowledge would not hurt either. Troubleshooting an electrical problem on the forums is not going to be easy as there are so many varaibles to consider not to mention all these cars are not wired exactly the same especially when you do an LS swap. Good luck sir, electrical problems suck but I think you are taking the right approach and have someone take a look at it.

Mine are gapped for a 200 shot as well. I'm using the Mast Motorsports Black Label LS3 heads and the cam is theirs as well. Seems to be a good combination.

Yes sir, I agree with you that’s a little low for a 436 engine. My 416 did 621hp and 547ftlb’s of torque on the bench dyno. I’m expecting 540 to 550rwhp and there is always the 200 shot of gas in case that’s not enough which I don’t see why it would not be. My cam specs are 240/256 and .610/.634 lift with 114 lsa. If I would not had my rings gapped for Nitrous I would have made another 15 to 20hp. I’m sure you already know but I suggest gapping your rings for the shot you are using, especially on a forged motor or you could be picking up parts from the track.

Nope it's not only you. I see it upside down too. Nice car though.

Damm, that's fast man. You should go on Street Outlaws and represent the S30's.

Congrats, way to represent the S30s.

Which guys are you refering to? Powerfab?

Congrats. Nice set up, similar to mine except mine is a 416. You have it made being in Dallas, just right around the corner from Nitrous Outlet and no better tuner than LG Motorsports on LS motors. Both great companies with tons of experience. I may trailer my car to LG when completed to have them tune it if Mast Mootrsport does not have their dyno up and running by then.

The shop that is going to do my nitrous and fuel lines suggested flaring the tubing instead of using these adaptors. They mentioned these adaptors can fail. Nothing like fuel and nitrous leaking over your coils to ruin your day.

Sounds and looks good man, now I know where to go when I need my exhaust done...lol

I'm using the LS1 water pump, ATI LS Super Damper harmonic balancer, LS3 aftermarket tensioner, JCI A/C kit and LS1 f-body alternator with LS1 f-body alternator brackets and everything lined up perfectly. The water pump needed to be modified at the top to clear the Nick Williams 102 throtle body as it would rub just a bit but I guess that has nothing to do with belt alignment. My LS3 was built my Mast Motorsports so it would be more like a crate motor except it is a forged 416 CID stroker.

The Coyote engine as well as the Voodoo are good motors however, I think for street use it’s all about personal preference. As Phantom said, do not lose sight of the intended purpose of the car. I don’t see why you would need an 8000 rpm motor on the street. Having the power hit differently at low rpm’s can be easily controlled by using the proper cam set up on the LS engine for your intended use as well as controlling your right foot. As for sound that boils down to personal preference for sure. One big plus about the LS motors is the availability of parts and how much cheaper they are vs Coyote or Voodoo parts. Last but not least there are much more LS swaps on S30’s vs Coyote and Voodoo engines so if you run into any issues you can always get support from people that are veterans to the LS swap instead of redesigning the wheel on your own. Either way you decide to go it should be a fun car to drive.

The LS1 brackets should work on the LS3 without any issues. For the alternator I’m using GM parts numbers 12563327 and 12556915 (see pictures), you can get them used or go to gmpartsdirect.com and buy them new at a fraction of the cost. In some cases even cheaper than Ebay. As for the tensioner I’m using the CBM tensioner since it is adjustable and some had issues with the stock spring loaded self-adjusting tensioner failing (throwing the belt) at higher rpm’s. For the belt I’m afraid the belt I’m using may not work for you since I’m running the JCI A/C unit on my LS3. Hope this helps and feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

Yes sir, that sounds right.

Phantom, that’s the best advice anyone can give. Especially the part about sticking to the vision you have for the car. I can tell you from experience that changing directions in a build can get very expensive as well as have an effect on other things. One thing I added to my build that was not planned was a direct port Nitrous system that to be honest I will most likely never use. An 820hp S30 will be almost impossible to handle on the street even with drag radials. I really like the look of a direct port system and that’s why I did it, however a $2000 add on turned into a $10,000 add on really quick after going with a TR6060 to handle the power, a twin disk clutch set up, bigger intake, throttle body, and adding 2 Nitrous computers and the proper sensors. Not to mention the stainless tubing I still need to run as a Nitrous line as well as go with a bigger fuel pump in case I do spray it I don’t lean out and blow the engine. By going to the bigger intake I had a problem with the water pump as the top of the water pump would hit the bottom of the intake so I had to have it modified, then I wanted to run steam vents in all 4 corners of the heads and bought a kit online. The steam vent kit was intended for a stock intake so I had to have 2 of the fitting modified by a machine shop. So as you can see, one change affected so much and of course it all cost money. I don’t regret what I have done so far because I think it looks great but if I had to do it all over again I may not have done it. Just something to keep in mind when you are choosing components for your build.

yes sir, that's it.

I bought mine already modified from Tick Performance. They take a brand new 6060 and modify it. They sell them already modified to handle 900RWTQ or can modify yours. And yes, you maintain all the better shifting of the 6060 without worring about fitment issues on the S30.

I'm not sure the excat lengths but as you mentioned it makes a big difference which mounts you use. From what I have seen the T56 with JCI mounts work great. The shifther comes out right where it should on the S30. If you go Magnum or TR6060 the shifter is too far forward with the JCI mounts. If you move the engine back by making your own mounts you may create other problems in the process like interference with the heater hoses coming out of the firewall as well as having a difficult time getting to the bellhousing bolts in case you need to remove it later, etc. I'm using the JCI mounts and that's why I had my TR6060 modified to use the T56 tailhousing. I saw someone use the regular TR6060 and the shifther is so far forward that they had to hack up the transmission tunnel in order to make it fit. Then it is difficult to find a proper shifter boot to cover such a large hole making the ineterior looked unfished and hacked up.

You are partly right, how much you spend does have a lot to do with your ability to do fab work and getting good deals but ultimately the price of your build is all about what level you want to take it to.

Well I hate to say this but I'm at 85K on my spreadsheet and still far from being done. I will have over 100K in this car once it's completed and it will probably be worth 5K. My budget was originally 45 to 50K and that has been blown long ago. Definitely something you do because you are passionate about it not for an investment. Obviously you can do a swap much cheaper than me but as always it is all about personal preference.