alainburon

I will be going with a radiator from Wizard Cooling. They already make one that fits an S30 but they can custom build you whatever you need. I just want the filler neck to the side instead of the center and to have an -AN 4 fitting for the steam vent on the heads. When I spoke with them they told me to wait until I have the motor in in order for me to give them measurements between the core support and the front of the motor this way they make sure they build me something that fits properly and it's rated to the engine and hp requirements I will be running. I think that the biggest issue is to make sure the radiator is rated for your application. You can buy one from ebay and make it work but will it work as its supposed to? Especially in the summer heat with the A/C on in stop and go traffic.

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the compliments.

That's a clean looking bracket. Nice job.

Well I made some progress this past week. I was able to finish most of the Dynamat, I ran out again and had to order box # 3. This car is going to be heavy but I'm not concerned about that, I want it to be as quiet as possible and get rid of the tin sound these cars always have. Hell I can always add more Nitrous if I need to....lol I was able to get the evaporator in as well as made some braided A/C lines to go to the bulkhead in my firewall. Got the pedals in as well as all the brackets that hold it together and the steering column. Also I was able to get my new mirror mounted, it has homelink feature, auto diming, external temperature and compass display. Installed the chrome plated roll bar and the trunk panels which I had made out of wood instead of reusing the factory cardboard junk.. It's funny how a 1 hour job sometimes turns out to take all day but I guess that's part of working on these old cars. Now I will start working on the Nitrous purge set up I want to do as well as installing the power windows.

Looks like a lot of nice cars come out to the Zattack show. If I get mine done in time I will try and make it.

Looking good man, but you are missing some flush mount side markers...LOL

I think I may still have the JCI adapter for the water sending unit. It puts the sending unit in the block. Let me know if you want it and I can look for it. You can have it at no charge.

I have not been able to do much on the car due to all the traveling for work but I was able to do some Dynamat on the trunk and the passenger side floor board, also used 1/2" Dynaliner in the trunk area. Hopefully that will quiet the fuel pump some. I had the headliner and shock towers wrapped in leather and stitched in blue to match the rest of the interior. Hopefully I can get it into the fab shop to have my fuel, nitrous and brake lines ran.

Tick Performane sells a T56 Magnum that will fit a 98-02 Camaro. That should put the shifter in the proper location if using JCI mounts.

Nice car, can't wait to see it done.

Thanks for the heads up. I will check with them before I do anything.

My set up is similar to yours I just don't use a GM computer. jajaja, I had a dream someone sold chrome plated wires......Does that mean I have a problem?

Thanks for the suggestion but I’m not sure if that will work for me. My engine has its own standalone harness with fuses and relays as well as its own computer with the cables needed to communicate to it for diagnosis. My concern is the body harness. The wiring that goes to all the lights, defroster relay, horn relay, ignition relay and so forth. I may call them before I send it off and see what they suggest. You can paypal the parts if you want and I will ship it to you my paypal is alain.buron@bakerhughes.com.

Man, I'm sorry to hear about the wiring and what a coincidence. I was looking at my old wiring harness yesterday trying to figure out what I can use and what I can remove but after reading this my mind is made up. I will send it off to have it duplicated after I remove the circuits I don’t need and have them add the extra circuits I do need. Don’t know what the heck I was thinking considering using 37 year old wiring. The problem with these cars is nobody makes an aftermarket wiring harness for it and all the universal harnesses just power the main components not your factory relays etc… I was trying to stay away from a custom harness because they are so expensive but I guess I should just bite the bullet and get it done. I have been traveling like crazy too, about 95% of the time now until the end of the year so the car is not going to get much love in the meantime but I will squeeze a few hours in every time I get home. If I’m home next weekend I will try and make it to see your car. Let me know if you still want the parking lights, I’m leaving Saturday.

Unfortunately mine is not done yet but my plan is to have the radiator made with a AN4 fitting coming out of the top in order to run my line to it. I believe JTR sell a piece that goes in your top radiator hose where you can connect the cross over line and bleed it. Here is a picture of it.

I'm going to the top of the radiator with mine giving it a better chance to push all the air out instead of going down towards the water pump. I will be using stainless braided lines.

I would go with JCI, It is proven and no rig ups or fab work involved. Also you can run long tubes with the JCI mounts.

Congrats, another Texas LS Z.

I dug up some parts this weekend and installed the speakers in the door panels. The hardware that came with the speakers did not work, thank god for ACE Hardware and their fasteners section. I don't recall anything I have purchased for this car that just fits out of the box. It seems like you always have to either buy different bolts or modify something in order for it to fit. Thank god for beer if not I would have thrown a hammer through the front windshield of this car a long time ago.

I hear you, that sounds about right. Plan for $20 and spend $200. Sorry for not posting any more details about the engine, it must have slipped my mind. The engine is a Mast Motorsport LS3 416 CID Black Label turnkey engine. It’s supposed to make 630hp but my rings are gapped for a 200-250 hp shot of nitrous so I lost a little hp because of that. It comes with its own computer and wiring so it’s basically plug and play. Here are the engine specs including the cam. Thanks for following this build and you are right it has not been easy at all but it will be all worth it when it’s done and I can drive it. LS3 Aluminum Block Plateau Honed to 4.070 True Surfaced Deck Engine Block Deburred Blueprinted Shortblock Clevite Rod and Crank Bearings Callies Forged 4.000 Stroked Crankshaft Callies Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods Diamond 2618 Alloy Pistons Mast Black Label LS3 Medium Bore Heads ARP Head Bolts ARP Main Studs Cometic Head Gaskets Mast LS3 Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam (240/256 Duration 610/634 Lift 114 LSA) GMPP Hydraulic Roller Lifters Mast Black Label Pushrods Mast Dual Valve Springs Mast Hollow Intake Valves Mast Solid Stainless Exhaust Valves Cloyes Race Timing Set w/ Z-Chain

Thanks guys, We were just talking about how much of a PITA is going to be to keep this car clean but funny thing is I actually enjoy hanging out in the garage after a ride wiping the car down with a cold beer (whiskey in the winter) in hand. As for the budget, you are absolutely right. It has been blown a long time ago and I'm not even close to being done.

A crate engine should have assembly lube in the bearings etc.. so you should be ok to start it one you have added fluids. It's always better to prime it but you should be fine.

After 3 long months of waiting the wheels finally arrived. Now the car can be moved in order to wetsand it, buff it and assemble it. Thanks to Texis300 and thezguy for your help today,

Those are brighter for sure. Good safety upgarde.

Nice set up