denny411

Well Guys,you can all be jealous now . While in D.C for the 4th, I got a chance to see Pete and his marathon project in person. Both were top notch The car looks even better in person. truley a top notch,professional job. Pete, Thanks for the hospitallity(and the wet wipes ). It was great meeting you and your wife. If your ever going to be in my neck of the woods be sure to let me know, My door is always open

Pete, looks great I`m looking forward to getting an up close look this week.

The squeel could be a high frequency vibration between the pads and the caliper. try using a thin film of permatex ultra copper silicone on the back of your pads(between the pad and caliper) pump the pedal to put pressure on the pads and allow it to dry over night before driving. It also could be the pads are not broken in properly. If you didn`t have the rotors turned or (since they are new)did not clean them sufficiently with brake cleaner,this is very likely. If they were not cleaned properly,your pads will be contaminated with oil and must be replaced. They are coated with this oil to keep them from rusting during shipping. If used and not turned, have them turned and litely sand the face of your pads to "break the glaze" on them. this will allow them to properly break in. It`s the same principal as honing a cylinder when installing new piston rings. If not honed, the rings will not break in and properly seal the cylinder causing blowby and oil consumption. Brakes not properly broken in is much more dangerous, it will cause brake fade.

What are the seats from? I`m looking for some black leather seats for my wifes mgb. How much ya askin?

My wife is from the southern hills of ohio, and has always called the trunk a "boot".It drives me nuts she also cals the glove box or glove compartment "the dash" me)Where are my sun glasses honey? her)In the dash. me) Where at in the dash? behind the speedo? or the sterio?

Just be sure you have the cash for a ticket home. If he finds out you can`t afford it, He`ll leave you sittin on the curb with your thumb in the air. Check the bid history, He had a nibble the other day but the bid was retracted.

V8

HEH,HEH...donky nuts that`s funny(but true)

I always reread and edit to insure what I`m typing makes sense. I don`t type well, and usually make mistakes The edit function has come in very handy for me. If not for that, I doubt anyone would have a clue what I was talking about

Jeremy,The r200 will easily handle any street engine, and most race engines for that matter. there are a couple guys here running in the 9`s with r200`s and the stock u joint axles.

Most likely, your shoes were not adjusted properly. This has caused your wheel cylynder to over expand. this is also most likely the cause of the mushy pedal. You were relying solely on the front brakes, and the rears were making minimal contact. you will need to replace the shoes on the side that is leaking since the saturation from brake fluid will cause them to expand and deteriorate, and possibly the wheel cylinder too.It depends on whether the cup in the cylinder has been damaged at all. Be sure to properly clean everything with brake parts cleaner,and make sure that there is at least minimal drag between your shoes and the drum

Some parts stores and machine shops make custom ac hoses. All you need are the fittings/hose ends, and length measurements.This will allow you to use the newer style compressor and brackets to fit your engine,while allowing the use of the stock ac system.(Evaporator,fan,blower housing) Replacing the dryer/accumulator with a new stock replacement would work perfectly well. I personally like the stock steel ac lines in the z.They are much less likely than rubber hose to develope leaks, and they take up much less space, keeping the engine compartment much less cluttered

I`m pretty sure the virus`s that I recieved weren`t "klez".My norton could not repair the files, nor could it identify it. Also, for the Klez to attack me from Pete`s pc, my email addy would have to have been on his computer. Up until I recieved the infected mail, Pete and I had never corrasponded. IMO, someone was useing his address to send mail to another Hybridz member. The fact that he is an administrator, made it much more likely for me to open it without scanning it first.

NICE!! I had a 53, midnight blue w/ silver flames. I sold it about 10 yrs ago when I was hurting for cash

you could stabilize the 3 wheeled stand by welding a bar across the front to make it into a 4 wheeler. I personally have never had a problem with the 3 wheelers tipping,but I do agree that 4 wheels are much stronger/safer. I have 5, 3`s that I use primarily to store engines on to make them easier to move around.I have 1, 4 that I use for rebuilding.They are much easier to use a drain pan with, to help keep the floor clean

does anyone here make the adaptors? or does someone have some plans for them?

I`ve got some Q`s about the r230 swap. 1)Are the right and left inner cv`s the same? 2)How much $$ are the companion flange adaptors? 3)Has anyone here succesfully completed the swap? 4)Has anyone designed and built the mounts and mustache bar needed for the swap? 5)would the companion flange adaptors hold up to 800 rwhp? I found 4 shafts and the carrier with 30k mi for 425.00 + shipping. If all parts for the conversion, or at least the adaptors are available. I will most likely snag this deal

If you`re serious, here`s the # 1 800 626 9299 The # is for Army`s auto wrecking in Lima Ohio. These wheels have been sitting in there lobby for quite a while, so they should know what your talking about I`m not sure what shipping will run, or even if they ship by ups or not. If you strike a deal with them and they don`t ship, I may be able to pick them up and ship them to you when I get back to Al(might save a couple bucks anyway)

Back in my "MULLET" days, I got my hair wrapped up in the wheel of my creeper I was stuck under the car for at least half an hour, trying to lift the corner of the creeper I was laying on and untangle my hair (I have short hair now)

The sad thing is, there are plenty of shops that are almost as bad as that. I asked the local firestone shop how much they charge to turn rotors. The service manager told me 70.00+ tax for two when I found another shop to do all four for 32.00 tax included, I mentioned that I had asked at firestone. they were laughing before I had a chance to tell them the cost. They told me a typical brake job there runs between 750.00 and 850.00

I`ve got my own evacuation pump and r/12 as well as 134a guages. I`ve done numerous ac jobs over the years and have had very good luck with 134a conversions. my truck has been my test bed for the simplest conversion of all. The r12 system had a leak so I had no r12 left in the system. 1)I removed the accumulator,and drained all remaining oil from it. 2)I filled the accumulator w/ 4 oz of esther oil, and plugged the ends to keep the desicant inside from absorbing moisture.(if the desicant is exposed to the atmoshere for more than 20 mins, it is not usable) 3)replaced all o`rings with the "green" 134a compatible ones, being sure to liberally oil each one. 4)I then reassembled all components 5)hook up guages and vacume pump and pull 24hg for 1/2 hr,stopping after the first 5 to insure that it will hold a vacume(it must hold steady vacume for a minimum of 5 mins) 6)bypass the low pressure shutoff switch at the accumulator with a paper clip and,install 1 can of 134a stop leak and detector(this will show red wherever a leak may occur, making future diagnosis easier. 7)start vehicle and add 1 can of 134a oil charge 8) then fill with 134a only(should not take more than a total of 35oz.) 9)remember that evaporator tempurature is directly related to your low side pressure. evap, temp will usually be 3 to 4 degrees warmer than your low side guage reading (the temp at the vents will vary somwhat more) I like to have the low side guage at or around 35psi. you will want to use a fan to force air through the condensor, this will aid in getting a more complete charge. your guage readings will also be more accurate to real world operation. I have been running the ac in my truck without any problems for 2 years.(with the original r12 accumulator, and no flushing) If you have the vent pointed too close to your head it will give you a headache.the temp at the vents is 42 degrees. I buy my 134a at Sams club in a 30lb cyl for about 80.00 to give you an idea of how many systems I have charged/converted. I`ve been through 5 30lb cyls I converted our 92 explorer about 5 yrs ago and it is still as cold as the day I finished it. The stop leak will not hurt your compressor, and if you need the evaporator, I think I`ve got some frome Z`s and zx`s

Are you looking for pad or carpet? If you only need the pad, I would suggest using the dense 1/2" carpet pad that you can get at lowes. I`m using it with great success in my wifes mgb. I just used the old pieces as patterns. I`m also using there black indoor outdoor carpet(not the course plastic stuff ) since none of the carpet is molded, It works really well and IMHO it looks as good or better than original. The price is better too. I can carpet and pad the whole car for about 50.00 vs. the 185+ shipping it would cost:cheers:

any specifics on oz.to gal.ratio with tolulene?

Just kidding but I do know where to get a set for 75.00 bucks, Any takers?

Hey!! what`s wrong with teddy bear wheels