ktm

I run an Ishino (OEM replacement) with ARPs and 22 psi. No problem here either.

I received my new assembly and it has the mounting tab. It is also 50% longer than the 300 zx turbo pinion assembly. I'll compare them both to the z32 assembly when I pull it out.

The 240z ignition hot wires go "dead" when cranking. I had to switch to a 280z switch to resolve that issue for my Wolf setup.

....as well as colleagues who are your purported "peers". My favorite of the day is from my boss. He is the director of engineering for my region. This is important. I am on a conference call today to discuss the viability of a process. I inquire as to the flowrate of the system. I am looking for a SCFM number or standard cubic feet per minute. The designer of the system replies 3.25 million standard cubic feet per DAY. I confirm the numbers verbally that it is per day and state that I'll just divide by the number of minutes in a day (1440) to get the flow number I need for comparison (per minute). My boss, an engineer with twice my experience, states over the phone for all to hear, "I think that there is another conversion factor in there." Best keep quiet and look the fool than open your mouth and confirm it......

Aw, gimme a break.

BRAAP beat me to it. Most methanol injection systems operate at close to 3 times the stock EFI pump pressures. Yes, 3 times the pressure. My FJO setup operates at 110 psi, others are closer to 150 psi. You need the methanol to vaporize, not form droplets, hence the high pressure.

As I look at the panels, I see that these are really setup for more of a race-prepped interior. There are no provisions for the door handle or window crank. I am assuming that you've removed these on your car?

At least mine goes 3 to 4 weeks before it throws a temper tantrum. Yours had the 3-year old equivalent of lying on the floor, kicking and screaming.

Yasin, you will need to buy the sheathing either on-line or from a commercial grade electrical supply store.

A 280z fuel gauge will work in a 240z. I replaced all of my 240z gauges with 280z gauges. You did more work than was necessary.

Try to find a local electronics store, not Radioshack, but something commercial grade. I have a place I go where I picked up my ATC fuse box (for internal use) that has a common bus. That is, one power wire feeds all of the terminals. As for the weatherpaks, you'll need to order those on-line. I thought about using weatherpaks, but my car never sees inclimate weather and I could not justify their cost right now. Hugh, your wiring embarrasses mine!

I would like to add that I experimented a little bit and also ordered the speedometer assembly from 1988 300zx turbo. I have a 1988 3.70 LSD differential and this would mean that the assembly would have the correct pinion. Unfortunately, while the assembly body is identical to the assembly for the truck, there is one crucial difference. The 300 zx turbo assembly does not have the little tab that allows it to be bolted to the transmission case. As a matter of fact, I do not see how it is retained in the transmission at all.

A shifter kit? As in short shifter kit for the S30s? Not that I am aware of anymore.

Your questions will be better answered here http://www.classiczcars.com

You have to be careful when using the spacers on lug centric vehicles. I am running two 5mm spacers in the front for clearance with my wheels. I have to torque the wheels with the car lifted, so that the lugs will center the wheel. If you do it with the car on the ground, the wheels will not be centered.

I am certainly jealous. I've been doing everything else but body and paint and I keep saying, "Body and paint are next year....." However, when next year comes I've identified other projects I want to do. Hell, NEXT year was supposed to be body and paint yet I've decided to go down the route of a worked head, custom intake manifold, Baddog rails and subframe connectors, etc. One of these days. I love the color and that clear makes the paint look so damn deep!

You seem rather.....fascinated by that fact.

There is a far easier way to cool the intake charge.

It vibrates ever so slightly, nothing to be concerned about though.

I never did get around to creating the PDF document. I can if that would help.

Fantastic news. Courtesy screwed up my order and only sent a pinion. What was the exact part number?

If your MAP and WG actuator are set to your manifold pressure, then you can have all of the pressure drops you like. Your MAP will still be your target value since it is referencing your manifold. I am running 2.5-in. all the way. My IC ends are 2.5-in; turbo outlet is 2-in. and TB is 2.75. You have two reducers (2 to 2.5 and 2.5 to 2.75) which result in negligible pressure drops.

No. It should fall on its face at 5500 rpm just as you are experiencing.

Garvice, I tried to get mine to fit like Ron's as well and encountered the same issue as you (when you state "just don't think I can fit them properly that way"). I wanted the slick look that Ron achieved, but was unable to get them to fit properly.

They look like the same coils as mine.