ktm

The problem with that setup is that it still relies on the linkage at the gas pedal. That is where a lot of the resistance comes from. Ideally you want to have the cable hooked up to the gas pedal. Looking at that picture, you should be able to get a cable to attach to the gas pedal and snake the throttle cable to the throttle body.

This is where my peak torque developed as well. Stock P90a head, stock cam, stock N-42 intake.

Jeff, you are doing exactly what I did. Spark gap, colder plugs (7s and 8s myself as well), increasing coil dwell, etc. I still get the occassional misfire, but that could be attributed to my fueling. I don't know. Now that I have meth injection, I will lean out my map a little more and see if that helps. Maybe timing? But that would show up in AFRs.

I installed them last night, along with a CF Bre spook.

L24s use a one piece gasket too.

Gollum, yep, $265 SHIPPED. They are not custom made, but rather they have all of the measurements already for the driveshaft. They apparently have a supplier that was in Anaheim (I live in Irvine) that had one in stock. I ordered it on Tuesday and received it on Wednesday. They have the 280zx turbo driveshaft too for $265 shipped if I remember correctly.

The stock driveshaft does not weigh that much to begin with. Unless you do hardcore racing, it is more for bragging rights imho. www.thrashdriveshaft.com makes custom aluminum and CF driveshafts. I just bought a 1975 driveshaft from them for $265 shipped and received it within 24 hours of ordering.

Thanks for reminding me that it's calibration time again.

I did the same thing 6 months ago. I ran a hose from the PCV tube to a push-lock fitting that was -6. I then have a -6 to 1/4-BSPT adapter that is on the bottom of my N42 manifold. I cut the hose and inserted a PCV.

Gollum, check out Zsondabrain over at Classiczcars.com. He cleans and rebuilds the combo switches for $40.

This thread is 5.5 years old.....

Ok, you made me go out, crawl under my car and take pictures. z-ya, it's documented over at Zcar.com believe it or not. The 1975 R200 used a 10mm diameter bolt instead of an 8mm diameter bolt, and the bolt spacing is slightly wider than the "standard" bolt spacing. Following are the pictures of my driveshaft flange and the 1975 differential flange. You can clearly see that the bolt hole on the differential flange is larger than the driveshaft, that the spacing of the recess' are different (center of flanges), and that the bolt spacing is different.

For the R200 swap into a 240z, when swapping the pinion flange on the R200, do NOT use the flange from a 1975 280z. The bolt spacing and diameter was different for this year and this year only. Thus, the driveshaft will not bolt up to the differential.

Found out my problem. I have a flange from a 1975 R200. This MY 280z is the only year where the flange is not compatible with the driveshaft as the bolt diameter AND spacing is different. I will either need a new flange or a 1975 driveshaft.

As I understand it, nearly all automatic 280zs came with R-180s. I bought an R200 (3.54) for the stub axles and the pinion flange. Now my 240z was apparently an automatic at one point and a previous owner swapped it over to a manual. Saying that, he may have snagged either a 70-71 driveshaft or there may be a difference between the manual and automatic driveshafts.

I have swapped the input flange on the R200. It was a round one from the LSD and I swapped in the square one from an R200 from a 280z. The driveshaft will not bolt up. There is a circular recess in the input flange on the diff. This circular recess is SMALLER than the circular protrusion on the 240z driveshaft. The bolt holes are the same dimension apart, but the driveshaft flange will not sit flush with the diff pinion flange.

Ah, I did not see that. I'll just swap out the entire driveshaft.

I have a 1972 240z with a R180. I just swapped in a 3.70 LSD from an 89 turbo and I have a R200 pinion flange from a 1975 280z as well as the stub axles. The stubs bolt up fine to the half shafts, but my driveshaft will not bolt up to the pinion flange. The inner circle on the driveshaft yolk that rests inside the pinion flange is larger than the R200 female circle. As a result I can not get my driveshaft to bolt up. Anyone else encounter this problem?

If you have an LMA-3, you do not need the Wolf MAP signal. I was looking at doing exactly what you want to do when I had just the LC-1, except I wanted the RPM signal as well. The LMA-3 has both RPM and MAP, so you will not need the LMA-2 RPM converter. I use Logworks to calculate my new injector opening times based on the fuel map and measured AFRs. I can share the formula in Logworks that I use.

Hugh, before you expend too much energy in this endeavor, I would seriously look at Wolf's logging capabilties for their input channels. I tried logging my knock sensor as well as AFR voltage from my O2 sensor and Wolf could log the individual channels. I could never get it to show me the data.

Yes. Rotating the engine until it is TDC is just a precauntionary measure incase you lose your mark. I have always just marked the timing chain link and cam gear and make sure the chain is secure. Edit: On second though, you are going to have to remove your valve in #6. The above only works if your cam gear stays in position, which it is unlikely to do if you are replacing a valve.

It does not matter what rules were broken, it is that they were broken. Look up (deleted) and (deleted) and you'll see their bans are lifted.

What gear were you in? 4th?

Even the oldest of members who know the rules are subject to them. I saw (deleted) ban and now its lifted. (deleted) ban is lifted as well. This is most likely a little timeout. This is their house, their rules. We all know them and should expect them to be enforced.

Ok, that got a good chuckle out of me.