Miles

Pictures?

Best advice!

72 240Z Front Toyota calipers with solid rotors and rear 240SX calipers. Axxis Ultimate brake pads. 280Z 8 inch booster with Wilwood 1 inch MC. The 280Z booster reduced pedal effort caused by the 1 inch MC. Brakes modulate well.

Suggest that you study what it takes to build a balanced and safe brake system before investing in a brake upgrade. At minimum, throwing a bunch of brake parts together like many vendors do, results in less performance than stock brakes and at worst are dangerous. The guy telling you to put a proportioning valve on the front brakes to balance rear brakes indicates that he has not worked out a balanced brake kit. Adding a proportioning valve to the front brakes creates a kluge (collection of non compatible parts forming a disgusting whole) to make his kits work. You can do some brake torque calculations with various front and rear caliper/rotor combinations and come up with a balanced design yourself or at least evaluate the available kits before you buy one. Master cylinder selection is based the caliper volume requirements, brake pedal travel, torque calculations, booster selection, your preferences for brake pedal feel and how the car will be driven and so on. So there is no best master cylinder - it always depends on other factors.

What shape is the 280Z in? That is, brakes, suspension (shocks, springs, bushings), engine, transmission etc.?

Have you read the Brake FAQs and the brake forum? All of your answers are there, in detail.

What booster are you using? I thought of doing the same thing, but was concerned that it would increase pedal effort or the brakes would have a wooden feel.

Nice!

Yes. Several options available. My solution was to use a -3 SS line with a 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flare on the hard line end and a -3 to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare adapter on the brake end. See picture. Note adapter in brake caliper and hard line connection.

Go to any tire shop they usually have lug nuts for every application. The tire guy can advise you.

If the brake system has been opened and fluid was allowed to drain out then you should gravity bleed the whole system first to fill the lines and calipers. Or use a Motive power bleeder to force fluid through the dry system. Are the bleeders on the Maxima calipers pointing straight up? if not, the caliper has to be rotated so the bleeder is pointing up or some air may remain trapped. Be sure to block the piston so it cannot be blown out of the caliper and then have a helper push the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder. If you do not block the piston while the caliper is off the rotor for bleeding the piston will be blown out and you will have a very bad day.

Why remove one pad? It is normal for pads to just skim the rotor. You need to develop a systematic plan. Until you are sure that you have the correct MC and it is installed perfectly along with the booster and push rod adjustments you are just wasting time trying to guess what the problems are.

You must have the wrong master cylinder. Push rod too short = the pedal may be soft, but it will feel like it has a long weak throw and then come on harder. Push rod to long = brakes will feel hard and if the push rod is too long, the return ports in the MC will be covered such that fluid can not return to the tanks. Trapped fluid in the lines will eventually lock the brakes in which you will notice the brakes dragging more and more until they lock. The pressure is relieved by opening the bleeders on the MC, but you will have to shorten the rod a little at a time and retest until the rod is the correct length. You do not have to remove the hard lines to the MC to make the adjustments. As I recall, the starting point for my 280ZX MC push rod adjustment was about 13mm and for my Wilwood one inch MC it was about 14mm - 15mm.

Perhaps a cavity search is in order. Did confirm that you have the correct master cylinder? If not, anything we tell you may be wrong. See pictures. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? The brake section has many how to threads on bench bleeding. If there is air in the MC you will never have a hard pedal.

Agree with Seattlejester Find the most rust free unmolested Z you can find. Preferably one that hasn't had the electrical wiring cut up. That way money goes into paint, body, suspension, brakes etc that make for a safe, reliable and enjoyable daily driver. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. I would not pay $7k for that car just based on the rust showing in the pictures. You could spend a lot of your budget on unseen body repairs. Find out what your mechanic's hourly labor rate is and let that be your guide when evaluating a "fixer upper". Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm

NewZed is correct. My stub axle broke where the threads meet the splined portion of the axle. They also fail where the wheel mounting flange is welded to the axle. See pictures. Also, the flange is soft and easily bent. Not so much of a problem with drum brakes, but with disk brakes it caused the pads to drag on the rotor so I replaced them Modern Motorsports stub axles: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html

Mine broke pulling away from a stop sign! Many posts in the drivetrain forum.

Your questions are answered as follows: JTR, MSA and Johns Cars sell engine and transmission mounts. Only JTR provides a comprehensive "how to manual" that covers most of the systems you have to change or modify in some way. There are no 100% complete manuals or kits for a 240Z engine swap. Use HybridZ as you would an encyclopedia. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like threads, brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock. Do basic maintenance brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Things you might check: compression test, inspect the water in the radiator, pull the dipstick-any water in the oil? etc etc I have had engines develop hairline cracks in the block and heads so a cracked head is possible. If you are not intimidated by pulling the head, do so and have a machine shop check it for cracks. Let us know what you find.

The threaded area appears dry and clean. Why not clean the wet area down to the metal and then observe over time where the moisture is coming from.

You need to do more Google research on T5 transmissions, bell housings and clutches so you can ask more informed questions.

Arizona Z Cars 24 x 19 radiator Replaces 10 year old JTR radiator and runs 20 degrees cooler. Temperature gauge reads 185 to 200 degrees in 90 degree plus outside temperature. Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 168 electric fan 3000 CFM 19.5 amp Upper hose: Carquest E70651 Gates 20710 Napa NBH 7478 Orielly 20710 Lower hose: 1.75" ID Gates 20046 or Carquest C70287 Radiator Hose I.D. Reducer Bushing 1.75 ID to 1.50 ID: Carquest 76950

You can use small black rubber stoppers available at the hardware store or you can buy brake line plugs with the correct threads and inverted flare shape.

Spacer and fitment issues here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121985-s12w-on-73-z-mm-adapter-plate-issues/ Also, do you have the correct rotors? 300ZX (1984-1986) non-turbo vented rotors