Miles

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40444-brake-rotor-not-fitting-240z-vs-280z-hub/

Do not grind anything. Figure out why it is not fitting: step by step. If you have the correct rotor and calipers they just bolt on. Hundreds of these have been done. Are your hubs installed correctly? Is the inner bearing grease seal seated? Is the hub seated on the axle? Keep searching. This issue has come up before.

Went with Firefox. Sites that used to hang up with IE load fast and are trouble free. No more IE service pacs etc to deal with. Thanks for the advice.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/30-v8-z-forums/

After having bad experiences with several parts store calipers I now only use Nugeon brand parts. Napa carries them. Excellent quality control. http://www.nugeon.com/index.html

After having bad experiences with several parts store calipers I now only use Nugeon brand parts. Napa carries them. Excellent quality control. http://www.nugeon.com/index.html

7 Firefox 3 Chrome 1 IE

Trust, but verify.

Assuming that you have 79 - 85 Toyota 4x4 pickup calipers and the correct rotors and hubs there should be no problem with fitment. Check the links below for more information: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/toyotabrakeupgrade/index.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/toyotaCalipers.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88822-70-240z-vs-240z-280z-brake-calipers-and-hubs-4-piston-toyota-caliper-issue/ Note that the Toyota caliper was not designed to accept banjo brake line fittings and may leak. Use a -3AN line and a 10mm x 1.0 to -3AN line adaptor as shown in the attached picture.

Looks like Chrome is the way I'll go. Any problems with censoring searches or privacy with Chrome? Thank you all for the input.

I am looking for a reliable replacement for Internet Explorer: Firefox or Google Chrome? Other?

Brake bias calculator: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/

Good deal. Let us know how the brakes perform.

Bench bleeding setup. Be sure all fittings are tight and not sucking air. Push the piston in all the way slowly unti there are zero micro bubbles. Plug the outlet ports when transfering the MC to the car.

Use of the stock E-brake would be a plus. The Miata people already have a full front and rear kit available using this caliper: http://www.habumiata.com/flyin-miata-four-wheel-little-big-brake-kit.html#!prettyPhoto

Go to the brake section and research: Brake bleeding Soft pedal Bench bleeding master cylinder Missing reaction disk Adjustment of the master cylinder push rod. There are many threads that deal with your exact problem. Take notes and form a plan to diagnose the problem. Make a check list and investigate each component of the brake system starting with the master cylinder e.g., did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Many brake solutions can be found at ClassicZcars. Google 240Z brake problems, 240Z bench bleed master cylinder etc.

Wrong key, but if you wiggle it the lock turns. Yes, no? Adjustment Lock is broken

I looked at the FB page and the website, but didn't see any pictures of the rear kit.

You may want to research brake balance issues in the brake section before deciding to install rear disk brakes. There are some good threads with balance calculations that quantify balance issues associated with various front and rear disk combinations. You will need to know the piston and rotor diameters for each caliper you plan on using. Match what you are planning to use to the balance calculations HybridZ members have posted or you can calculate based on your planned set up. Many of the so called upgraded front and rear disk combinations result in too much front bias. If you do the rear disk swap be aware that worn bearings and warped stub axle flanges can cause the pads to drag.

Topic has been discussed extensively. Keep searching. You will need pads for a 1979 - 1985 Toyota 4x4 pickup which you should already know if you are going to use the S12-8 calipers. How will your car be used? So state so people don't advise you to buy the wrong type of pads e.g, you do not want to run race pads on a street car. Here is my experience for a daily driver street only V8 240Z: Over the last ten years I have tried KVR, Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S pads. Low dust, but they did not stop the car very well especially on the first application when cold. That is, they had very poor cold bite which is what you don't want for a street car. You want good cold bite for the street. Performance pads need some heat for optimum performace so do not put them on a street car. I am now using Axxis Ultra pads on my solid Toyota S12-8 front and 240SX rear brakes. They have excellent cold bite and a very linear feel from first application to making hard stops. The set up on my car also includes a 1 inch Wilwood brake MC and 280Z booster. They dust a little, but so what. The idea is to stop the car. Source: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=338850&cat=&page=1 PM me if you require more information about Axxis Ultra brake pads.

http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Suggest that you spend several days researching "brake bias" and brake upgrade issues on HybridZ. All of the anwers are here concerning brake bias and proportioning valves. The Toyota S12w front and Maxima rear setup is highly biased towards the front. That being the case, a proportioning valve, which only installs on the rear brakes, will reduce pressure to the rear brakes making the front-rear bias issue worse. In other words, braking performance will not be improved with this so called upgrade. And a proportioning valve on the front brakes is dangerous. You can waste a lot of money trying to correct the bias issue experimenting with pad combinations. Note that most street "performance pads" such as Hawk have poor cold bite which is what you don't want when the guy in front of slams on his brakes. Do a Google search "Hawk pads cold bite" and for other pads etc. Well maintained stock brakes are fine. By the way, the rear axle shafts were designed to work with drum brakes. If the wheel mounting flange of the axle shaft is warped it will cause the pads to drag on any disk upgrade. Recommend that you check the runout on your flanges before installing any rear disk brake setup. The flanges can be turned up to a point to correct the warp. Rear wheel bearing issues can also cause pads to rub on the disk. If you do the rear disk swap replace the wheel bearings at the same time and reassemble the stub axle per the Factory Service Manual (FSM).

Getting this on random threads. forums.hybridz.org Driver Error

Buy one of these with the generic adaptor fitting: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ The Motive bleeder is the next best thing to gravity feed and it makes brake repair a one man operation. Makes it easy to bleed those Maxima or 240SX calipers where the bleed screw is not vertical. Brake Differential Pressure Safety Switch: See pictures. The brake switch has a piston that shuttles to the low side of the brake system if there is a leak in the front or rear brake circuits. As the piston moves towards the low pressure side it makes contact with the wire that turns on the brake failure light. I took mine appart and it appears that the piston will return to the central position once pressure is equal for the front and rear brake circuits. I found no mechanism that locks the piston in the rear or front brake circuit position. If the piston/cylinder is corroded, then the piston may stick in the bore and not return to the center position. My switch was badly corroded inside so I removed it and replumbed the lines to the master cylinder. Do not "gut" the brake switch. If you do you will tie the front and rear brake circuits together. Most likley, once you have all of the air out of the brake system the brake switch will not be an issue Again, bench bleed the master cylinder until there are zero bubbles. When you see no bubbles let the MC sit for awhile to allow small bubbles to gather and then pump the piston and bleed a few more times. Be methodical. Start with the MC and work each caliper until there is no air.