Miles

Can't reply to member milesz either. All other old PMs are ok.

Did you look here? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ You can buy kits from Motor Sports Auto etc.

I have the same set up. I installed the 280ZX MC with the check valves in-place and had firm brakes until the MC failed. After the 280ZX failed, I installed the Wilwood 1 inch MC without the check valves and my brakes have been soft with a long pedal. Two of the Wilwood MCs leaked right out of the box. I am going to try installing the check valves in the Wilwood MC to see if it helps.

Did you check the obvious things like a blown fuse, loose wire, bad ground and etc?

RebekahsZ

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Glad that helps. Post some pictures.

Start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Spend about ten hours reading in the brake forum. All you need is there.

I plan on reinstalling the check valves this weekend. I'll post the results later.

Just to follow up, did you keep the check valves in-place or remove them and how is the brake performance?

If the master and slave cylinders are are old, and you find that one of them is leaking/not holding pressure, just replace them both at the same time. Save yourself trouble later.

That is consistant with my experience with the 280ZX MC. I had no drag problems with the 280ZX MC which had check valves in the front and rear outlet ports. With the 280ZX MC the brakes were high and firm. The check valves are the only variable I haven't addressed. Looks like the check valve issue has come up before: http://forums.hybrid...eck-valves-f-r/

Just to be clear, you left the check valves in the front and rear outlets?

Re: Residual check valves in the 280ZX MC I opened up the outlet ports on two 280ZX MCs I have. Both the front and rear outlet ports have residual check valves behind the flare seats (cone shaped part). The 280ZX has four wheel disk brakes so you would think that using a 280ZX MC on a 240Z with 240Sx rear disk brakes would be ok. One of the 280ZX MCs I bought from MSA new and the other I bought from a wrecking yard to use as a core so I doubt that anyone added the check valves. The check valve issue became of interest to me because ever since I replaced a failed 280ZX MC with a Wilwood 1 inch MC in my 240Z, which has the 240SX MM rear disk kit, my rear brakes don't seem to be doing much work. My brake pedal is soft and low since I did the Wilwood MC install in which I also removed the residual check valve per Wilwood instructions. Before the 280ZX MC failed and I replaced it with the Wilwood MC my brakes were fine. So why would the 280ZX MC work in a 280ZX with disk brakes, but not a 240Z with 240SX rear disk brakes? Everything I have read says that residual check valves are for drum brakes only and not to be used with disk brakes and yet, there they are in the 280ZX MC. Based on my finding with the 280ZX MC I was considering puting the check valves back in the Wilwood MC, but after reading the above posts about the rear brakes dragging I am having second thoughts.

Re: Removal of residual check valves from Wiwood 1 inch MC vs 280ZX MC Design. Possible conflicting instructions. I just now removed the cones from the outlets on two 280ZX master cylinders. One of the 280ZX MCs had been on my 240Z with vented Toyota front and 240SX rear brakes for two years. The other 280ZX MC was an old one I purchased to use as a core. The 280ZX has front and rear disk brakes and yet I found residual check valves in the front and rear outlets of both 280ZX master cylinders. Wilwood says to remove the residual check valves for disk brakes and to leave them for drums. Several HybridZ threads also say to remove the residual check valves if you have rear disk brakes because leaving them in would cause the pads to drag. When I installed the MM 240SX rear disk kits on my 240Z two years ago I had a 280ZX master cylinder already installed. The 280ZX MC had residual check valves in-place at the time that the 240SX kit was installed. The 240SX rear disk kits worked well with the previously installed Toyota vented front brakes and 280ZX MC. But the 280ZX MC failed and I replaced it with the Wilwood 1 inch MC in which I removed the residual check valves per Wilwood's instructions. Since the installation of the Wilwood 1 inch MC the rear brakes are weak and the pedal travel is much longer/softer than with the 280ZX MC. After I installed the 240SX kit the rear brakes did not drag as a result of the residual check valves being left in the 280ZX MC. So now I am considering reinstalling the check valves back into the Wilwood MC as per the 280ZX MC design. Nissan had check valves in the 280ZX MC for a for a reason. Why would Nissan put residual check valves in both the front and rear outlets for the 280ZX that has front and rear disk brakes?

Found the problem. The speed bleeder was leaking around the threads.

240Z with Wilwood 1 inch MC, 280Z booster, Toyota S12-W vented front and 240SX rear brakes. Speed bleeders on MC, front and rear calipers. Brakes are spongy/soft indicating air in the system. Pedal is high until it is pumped a few times and it goes lower with each pump until it is even with the gas pedal and feels songy. Last October I replaced a failed 280ZX MC with a Wilwood 1 inch MC. The MC has been bench bled multiple times and bled on the car. I have run a clear hose from the bleeder on the MC back into the tank multiple times and observed bubbles flowing in the clear hose in the rear brake section of the MC and no bubbles in the front brake section of the MC. The MC where it connects to the booster is dry. Air is getting sucked into the rear section of the MC, but detailed multiple inspections of every fitting on the car reveals no leaks. I bled the front and rear brakes and there were no bubbles. Where could air be entering the the rear portion of the MC?

Go to pick and pull and get a clutch MC for your Z. You may be able to directly swap the Z push rod into the after market clutch MC. For example, I was able to swap the push rod from my stock 240Z clutch MC into a Tilton clutch MC eliminating the need to fab/modify a push rod. The Tilton bolted on and connected to the Z clutch pedal like stock.

Call MSA and ask them. The kit I used was p/n 40-2597 (custom carpet kit) which covered everything. It looks like they changed the p/n: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2596G

MSA = Motorsport Auto located in Orange Calif. www.zcarparts.com

You must have a hefty clutch. What MC and slave are you using?

Details? 240Z? Type of engine mounts (JTR, MSA, Johns Cars etc)? Engine-SBC? On two 240Z SBC projects using Motorsports Auto (MSA) engine mounts and Hooker block hugger headers (p/n 2100HKR black paint finish) I had to dimple the collector to clear the steering shaft. The first 240Z SBC project only required a 1/4" dimple in the collector to clear the steering shaft. The second 240Z SBC project required more then a dimple in the collector. I had to cut a small section out of the collector and then weld in a half section (cut length wise) of 5/8" tubing to provide a concaved section for the steering shaft to clear. I also had to grind the MSA motor mount some to clear the steering shaft. The two projects were identical, but the second install required more work to clear the shaft. Turned out that the driver's side MSA mount had been manufactured with a wrong angle where it bolted to the frame.

Most likely the higher cost is driven by low supply/availability. There are several options available for door seals. The McMaster-Carr door seal is cheap, fits well and allows the doors to close. TheMcMaster-Carr P/N is given in the Hybrid forums. For example: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83080-new-weatherstrip-alternative/page__hl__1120a33

I have used the MSA kit on two 240Z projects. The door seals would not allow the doors to close and the hatch glass seal was deformed in one corner such that it would just slip off the glass. For the doors I used door seals from Pep Boys (there are better choices such as McMaster-Carr - do a search). For the hatch glass I bought an OEM seal from Courtesy Nissan. All of the other seals worked fine. Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesyp...cPath=7724_7747&

It looks weathered. If the door and rails are rusted through/rotted it is likley that you will find other rotted out areas. I would pass on this one. Do yourself a huge favor and keep looking for a stock Z with minimum rust, original wiring and has not been chopped up.