Miles

Three things come to mind: 1.You may not have removed all of the air from the MC and brake lines after you bench bled it. Could be too the old MC just gave up the ghost. 2. Your rear wheel cylinder will need to be replaced. Given the history of your car you should replace both left and right side wheel cylinders. 3. You may (?) have dropped the reaction disk down inside booster in which case the pedal will go to the floor which will make the brakes suddenly grab. See the Brake Forum for the Reaction Disk explanation. Brake parts should be replaced in pairs for right and left sides of the car. Such as wheel cylinders, shoes, pads, calipers etc. While you are at it you might as well inspect the brake lines, shoes, pads, rotors and calipers and repalce any defective parts before you hit the road again. Motor Sports Auto (MSA), Black Dragon, Autozone, Kragen, Carquest etc all sell some or all 240Z brake replacment parts. On both of my 240Zs the first thing I did was to replace all of the old leaking and wore out brake parts. Always take your parts with you for comparison when buying from a parts store. Kknow the month and year your 240Z was manufactured as there are differences that matter. Info is on driver's door jam. If you aren't sure about what to do ask lots of questions and/or get a person experienced with brake repairs to help you or take it to a brake shop. In addition to the service manual, Haines manual etc. also pick a copy of "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble. It is available from MSA.

Welcome to the old world of SU carbs. One good resource for SU tuning is the Classic Z club website. They have a number of SU carb tuning sections in thier forum. http://www.classiczc...orums/forum.php If you are keeping your 240Z stock the Classic Z site has a lot of basic Z info. The best source for SU carb info is the Z Therapy video tape "Just SU". I have the tape and since completing my V8 swap have no need for it. You can have the tape and the tool required to balance your SU carbs. PM me and we can work out the deatails. Z Therapy also sells rebuild kits and rebuilt SU carbs (best but expensive). Get a 240Z Haines manual as it has diagrams of the SU setup. Watch the tape several times before working on the carbs. Atlantic Z Car Club has a tech write up on Tuning SU carbs: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/carbs/index.htm

I got the 3/8" double foil backed fiber insulation in 48" x 72" rolls from a local speed shop. Don't remember the brand. Therma - Tec makes a product called Cool -It. It is double foil backed over mineral fiber. One side is mylar the other side is reinforced foil. One member here bought his material from Home Depot. I glued mine down with carpet adhesive and then used aluminum tape to cover all of the seams.

Here are some pictures of the insulation install.

I put down a layer of Thermo-Tec Cool It acoustic mat and then a layer of 3/8" thick double foil-backed fiber insulating mat over all floor areas and the trans tunnel. Cool and quiet.

The interior cost including sound proofing materials, heat insulation, MSA carpet kit, new plastic panels, new panel fasteners, seats, upholstered door panels/visors, headliner, SEM Landau Black coating for all old plastic parts etc was about $1,700. Add another $800.00 for sound system, steering wheel, shifter knob, shifter boot etc etc. So about $2,500 ++ to have a complete interior. Interior is quiet and the floor is cool. Even smells like a new car.

About $180.00 from Spal: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=33000030

ZTR I had a local upholstery shop cover my door panels, visors, dogleg panels and the panel that goes on the inside of the hatch. I covered the kick panels. One thing to be aware of is when you add padding under the door panel the window crank will rub on the material. I installed power windows so the window crank is not an issue. If you want padded door panels have your upholstery guy leave a recess in the padding where the window crank is.

Just curious. What are you installing in place of the L6?

I would at least put some fender washers under the bolt heads. You will have an easier time getting the engine out if you use a tilting device that allows tilting the engine as it comes out to clear the radiator bulkhead. Harbor Freight sells the tilter.

Those are anit-withdrawal screws. You will have to drill the heads off. Start by center punching the heads then drill a small pilot hole in each head. Then switch to a drill bit that is a little larger then the diameter then the threaded portion of the screw. The bit has to be big enough to allow the cap portion of the screw to completely fall off. Just use normal screws when you replace the ignition switch.

First question is do you have stock springs? Here is an excellant tutorial on the rear suspension from Ataltic Z. Scroll through it and you will see how the insulator, spring perch and spring are assembled. If you search around you can still get the insulators. Used ones are available from places like the Z Barn. http://atlanticz.ca/...rend/index.html For both of my 240Z V8 street cars I did the following: Arizona Z springs- Spring rates Front 180 lb/in Rear 200 lb/in. May no longer be available, but the spring rates are fine for a daily driver. Check with Dave at Arizona Z. Just get stock ride height non-progresive springs ( not a fan). Tokico Blue Shocks (struts) New Nissan insulators, bearings (required for front only), rubber spacers etc. Energy suspension poly urethane suspension bushings. You will want buy a pivit pin removal tool for the rear control arms. Do a search in the suspension section and you will learn why you will need it. Stock Nissan tension/compression bar bushings. Poly urethane steering coupler Solid front differential mount. The noise is not excessive and there have been no problems in ten years. Spend some time reading in the suspension section. Pick up a copy of "How to Restore your Datun Z Car" as it has a lot of information not available in service manuals. If you do the work yourself you will need a spring compresser in addition to the pivit pin removal too (if changing out bushings). The pivit pin removal tool used to be available fome a Hybrid member for sale or there may be a loaner available. Do a search.

Without a booster you will have to stand on the brakes to stop. There are several adjustments that affect pedal travel and feel. Try those first to get the result you want. Under the dash there are two adjustments one at the clevis that connects to the brake pedal and an adjustable stop that affects how far the pedal returns to resting position. The other one is between the booster and the MC. Length of the push rod between the booster and the MC is critical so read up on it before adjusting the length. If you adjust it too long you will lock the brakes up. Set it to factory specs. The other issue is the reaction disk in the booster that sometimes falls out while adjusting the push rod which will affect pedal travel in a big way. There are several threads in the brake section and in the FAQ for brakes that explain the adjustments and problems people have with brake feel. Search these before making any adjustments or removing your booster. Best bet is to search the brake section. Also, always state the year and make of your car and any modifications made when posting questions. Good Luck.

Somewhere on this site I thought I saw a tutorial on tuning SU carbs. Also, Z Therapy sells a video called "Just SU" which explains the care and feeding of SU carbs. I have a copy if you are interested. Takes you step by step through the tuning process. Could be something as simple as adjusting the mixture settings or making sure that the choke is working. The Classic Z website has a lot of good info on tuning SUs.

Try replacing it with an Hitachi PSL-100 starter. Universal fit, compact and lightweight. About $160. I have used it on two builds with no problems. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HIT0/PSL100.oap?ck=Brand+Search_HIT_-1_-1&mn=Hitachi&mc=HIT

As mentioned in your first post................. Did you read the forum rules? This is well documented here. Search.

Did you read the forum rules? This is well documented here. Search.

Typical 240Z V8 build: 350 SBC Goodwrench crate engine, MSA mounts, JTR radiator, T5 Camaro trans, R200, Arizona Z Car springs, Tokico blues, poly U suspension bushings, Modern Motor Sports brakes - Toyota vented front and 240SX rear. Color is 350Z Silver Alloy K23 garage paint job. Dyno: 240 RWHP (strange coincidence). Built 2009 - 2010.

You don't state what year your Z is which helps when diagnosing problems. I'll assume that you own a 72 model. On the 240Z there were fuel supply and a fuel return lines on the passenger side. The fuel return line ran from near the fuel pump back to the fuel tank. The fuel supply line ran from the tank to the fuel pump. That cut line on the passenger side in the middle picture may be either the return line or the fuel line. My guess it is the fuel line and the return line has been removed. On the driver's side there was a fuel vapor line that connected back to the vapor recovery tank located next to the filler hose. The line was connected to the intake manifold which sucked the fumes out of the system when the engine was running. The vapor return line appears to be missing in your pictures. The front and rear brake lines in the middle picture appear to be intact. The lines appear to run correctly from the brake MC down to the brake switch (safety device). From the brake switch your brake lines appear to run correctly to the front and rear brakes. I can't imagine anyone being stupid enough to cut and crimp a brake line. The Haynes manual for the 240Z shows all of the lines in question. If you haven't already done so, put the car on jack stands and trace each fuel and brake line.

Bartman Could you post pictures of the Champion install? Hoses fan etc.

I presume you are doing the non-vented Toyota caliper swap which utilizes the stock solid rotors. Save some money and just go to Autozone etc. and buy new stock rotors. While you are at it you might as well replace the wheel bearings. If you are going to replace your master cylinder (MC) go ahead and install a 1979-1981 280ZX unit. That way should you decide to replace your drum brakes with disc brakes you will be all set. The Toyota swap with solid rotors and 79 280ZX MC was the first brake swap I did. It was only slightly better than stock, but eventually I replaced the solid rotor setup with the vented Toyota kit from Modern Motor (MM) Sports. There was a obvious improvement over the stock brakes. Later I added the MM 240SX rear disc set up and proportioning valve. Lots of pros and cons and differing opinions on these swaps so do a lot of research in the brake and FAQ sections. BTW if you use the 280ZX MC you will have to adjust the length of the booster push rod that pushes the MC piston. There are several good write ups on this in the brake section. You might want to look at the Brake section under Frequently Asked Questions as many of the brake swap technical issues and pros and cons are answered there.

Did you try Black Dragon? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZBMC.htm

Here is athe link to the JTR smog rules site: http://www.jagsthatr...0_V-8_Smog.html HybridZ: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90059-more-california-smog-info/page__p__854361__hl__smog__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=854361

Lozer They didn't raise any issues about the year of manufacture? I have wondered about how they could make much of a deal about small block chevy engines since they were pretty similar from year to year. For example, is there really a difference between say a 1972 SBC and a 1976 SBC? The 76 SBC may have had some different smog equipment on it then the 72, but the engine is basically the same. So did they treat your 68 Camaro engine as a generic SBC and issue the bar tag or is the rule about using and engine the same year or newer not valid?

I believe that the car has to retain whatever smog/vapor control equipment it came with such as the fuel tank vapor recovery tank, hoses, connections to engine etc. Best thing is to read the actual current Califonia DMV rules.