Miles

You can get the longer studs from Courtesey Nissan. Replacing them is not that hard. You can leave the hydraulic lines to the calipers attached. Just remove the caliper and hang it from the spring with some wire. Remove the hub, rotor etc. Knock out the old studs. Start the new studs in the hole, but don't hammer them in. Use a lug nut and tighten it to PULL the stud into place. I used an impact wrench and a deep socket, but a long handled socket wrench would work as well. Just tighten the lug nut until you verify that it is seated. This would be a good time to grease and/replace your wheel bearings. BTW there are several posts in the brake/wheel section dealing with this issue. Do a search.

The member who makes the headlight relay harness is Dave. He has a post in the Vendors section about his headlight harness which is plug and play so you don't have to butcher your wiring. It will allow you to run higher wattage headlights while reducing the load on the light switch. His harness is the one that MSA sells. I bought mine from him directly a few years ago. Takes about half an hour to install.

I keep a few spare T/S and light combination switches on-hand that I repair and use for replacements and trouble shooting. Sooner or later your switches will quit working and you will need to replace/repair them. There is also a member here who repairsT/S and light combination switches. His name is Dave and he is the guy that sells the headlight relay harness which is a must have upgrade. The headlight relay harness saves wear and tear on the light switch and allows you to run higher wattage headlights. You can find Dave's harness in the vendor section or purchase it from MSA. Do a search here and at ClassicZ Car for the "how to repair " T/S light combo switch. Here is the link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?20365-Headlight-Upgrade-Harness-s-For-Sale-(again!)

I had the same problem and traced it to a bad solder joint in the combination switch. Do a search for the write up on how to repair the combo switch. Also, there may be instructions at ClassicZ Car. Found a link: on line: http://www.kamikazer...ombo_switch.pdf

Picture of 350Z dash in a 240Z.

The search function got wierd on me today as well. For a search input like "brake" or "proportion" it would return "no results found". So I'll take pity on you.................... The brake lines are 3/16 with inverted flare 10mm x 1.0 fittings. Pepboys etc has them. Do try to search for basic information as just about every question has been covered. Sometimes I just Google a question.

Also not receiving email notifications. Long term problem.

Yes the one inch brake master cylinder will require more force when paired up with the 240Z booster. The pedal will feel stiffer and require more effort to stop as compared to stock brakes. The fix is to go to a larger diameter brake booster such as the 280Z or, if you have space for it, the 280ZX booster. The location of clutch master cylinder limits the room available to mount the 280Z or 280ZX booster on the S30 cars. I just finished installing 1 inch wilwood master cylinder and 280Z booster. Pedal feel/effort is good like you would expect power brakes to be. Car hauls down fast with minimum effort. Do a search as the 1 inch Wilwood master cylinder/booster issue has been covered in the brake section. Several members have posted "how to" threads on upgrading S30 cars with larger boosters. I recall some threads dealing with booster diameter. See pictures of Wilwood master cylinder and 280Z booster install on a 72 240Z.

Great write up. I just finished doing the Wilwood 1 inch brake master cylinder swap as a result of the non-availability of the 70-81 280ZX brake master cylinder. Note: Outlet fittings from a 79 - 81 280ZX master cylinder will also work. Larger Booster: With limited space between the 240Z throttle bracket and my 7/8 Tilton clutch master cylinder I had to use a 75 280Z booster. I had to re-drill the firewall to match the 280Z booster bolt pattern and dimple the booster slightly where it touched the Tilton 7/8 clutch master cylinder. The tight space problem might not be an issue if the stock 240Z clutch master cylinder is still in place. Note: If I had used a Wilwood 7/8 clutch MC instead of the Tilton 7/8 clutch MC there would have been more space to fit the larger 280Z 2+2 10 inch booster. See kj280z post below. The Wilwood MC has a smaller footprint on the firewall. Overall, the Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder and 280Z booster performs much better than 280zx master cylinder/240Z booster combination that I was using with my Modern Motorsports vented front and 240SX rear disk set up. Pedal is firm, but not hard to push using the 280Z booster.

Steve Go for it. Miles

I'll add a post on the Wilwood MC and 280Z swap with pictures soon.

The master cylinder would not hold pressure. It would sink to the floor during hard stops. I tried all of the usual places to buy a replacement, but found out none of the rebuilders or after market companies were supporting the 280ZX master cylinder. I did find that RockAuto can send your defective MC to Cardone for rebuild for about $40. I tried the RockAuto service, but it took four weeks to get my MC back and then it still would not hold pressure. Don't waste your time chasing a 280ZX MC. It is extinct. The autoparts stores advertise that they have them, but the truth is none of the rebuilders supply this MC anymore. The solution is to go to a one inch Wilwood tandom MC (p/n 260-8794) and a 280Z booster combination. Others have started doing this swap. See thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100010-brake-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/page__gopid__961481 If you have the Modern Motorsports Toyota vented front and 240SX rear disk brake kits installed the combination of the one inch Wilwood MC and 280Z booster works better than the 280ZX MC swap. I had the 280ZX MC and stock 240Z booster set up for two years and always felt that a larger MC and larger booster was needed. The other advantage of the Wilwood MC is that you can get one from Summit, Jegs, etc. or your local speed shop.

Wilwood p/n: 260 -8794 Available at Summit WIL-260-8794 The 280ZX master cylinder is now extinct. Here is what other HybridZ members have done: I just completed the Wilwood master cylinder and 280Z booster swap. Works well with my Modern Motorsports Toyota vented front and 240SX rear disk brake set up. Much better than my old stock 240Z booster and 280ZX master cylinder. The mounting holes in the Wilwood mounting flange have to be filed to match the slightly wider Datsun bolt pattern. I used a dremmel with a rotary file to open the top and bottom holes. No need to make or buy new brake pipes or adaptor fittings. The Wilwood master cylinder outlet ports are 3/8 - 24. To mate the Datsun 10mm x 1.0 brake fittings to the Wilwood MC all you have to do is swap out the outlet fittings on the Wilwood MC with outlet fittings from your Z master cylinder. The fittings are the outlet ports that thread into the MC body. The Wilwood and Z outlet fittings are identical except that one is 3/8 - 24 and the other is 10mm x 1.0. The Wilwood rear outlet port marked R has a residual pressure valve intended for rear drum brakes. If you have rear disk brakes you don't want that residual valve (looks like a rubber plug with a spring under it). Just lift the cone shaped part out of the rear oulet and remove the rubber plug and spring and replace the cone shaped part. Then screw in the fitting from your Z. The front outlet does not have the residual valve. I confirmed removal of the residual valve with a Wilwood engineer. I used a 75 280Z booster because I knew that the clevis pin matched the 72 240Z clevis pin. So no mods there. The bolt patterns are different so you need to make a templet of the 280Z bolt pattern and drill new holes in the fire wall. The booster was a tight fit btween the throttle bracket and the 7/8 Tilton clutch MC I am using. I had to dimple the outer edge of the booster about a 1/4 inch where it touches theTilton 7/8 clutch MC. The booster would fit easily if a stock 240Z clutch MC were in place. BTW the first Wilwood MC I bought leaked internally. It happens.

Turned out that the 280ZX MC that I had rebuilt at Cardone was still leaking. So I installed a Wilwood one inch MC and it too would not hold pressure. I couldn't return the Wilwood because I had to modify the mounting holes in the flange to fit the Datsun bolt pattern on the booster. I bought another Wilwood one inch MC and installed it. I now have a high firm pedal. In addition to the Wilwood MC, I installed a 75 280Z booster which works well with the Wilwood MC and Modern Motorsports (MM) Toyota vented front and 240SX rear disk kits I have had on my car for two years. The combination of the one inch Wilwood MC and the 280Z booster much improves the MM brake kits performance. Pads are Porterfield R4S. The Wilwood one inch MC is a good replacement for the now extinct 280ZX MC. I plan on posting details on the Wilwood MC and 280Z booster install.

Somebody did a 350Z dash not too long ago. Might try a Google search.

Problem solved. The 280ZX MC was leaking internally in addition to leaking fittings at the output ports.

Motor Sports Auto (MSA) sells a "stock type' replacement seat belt. It bolts in like stock. Go here: http://www.thezstore.../SIC03D/40-7491 There are many seat belt replacement kits that fit the Z seats. Search in the interior forum. Look on-line as well. Shoulder harness style seat belts won't work with stock seats as ModernS30 points out.

Is the motor frozen or is the wiper mechanism frozen? If the wiper is mechanically frozen that would explain the high amp draw. Check out the wiper drive mechanism and wiper connections to make sure they operate smoothly without binding.

Upgrading the alternator is not the answer. The wiper motor, and/or the wiring to it, is defective and drawing more amps then it should. Perhaps the wiper wiring is installed wrong. The fix is to find out what is drawing the high amps and fix or replace the part/wiring that is defective. Could be the motor is defective. Does the motor run smooth? Do the wipers run smooth without resistance to motion etc? Are there any shorted wires?

Search. It has been covered.

Let us know how the road test goes.

Tips on push rod adjustment: Don't adjust the push rod adjustment out too far or you will lock your brakes up. The MC piston has to return far enough to allow fluid in the MC to drain out through a return port inside the MC. Long story, but there are threads on this issue in the brake section. If you should lock your brakes up by over extending the push rod simply open the bleed screws on the MC with a 10mm wrench to relieve the pressure and limp home. And then back off the rod adjustment in small increments until no more lock up. Another tip on adjusting the push rod. You don't have to remove the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard pipes that connect to the MC that you can just remove the nuts from the MC mount, pull it forward and gently push it aside to allow access to the push rod adjustment. When I swaped in a 280ZX MC into my 72 240Z I used this technique to fine tune the length of the push rod. There is also an adjustment on the break pedal under the dash you can adjust to get less or more pedel throw. Be aware that pulling the push rod out to adjust it can result in dropping the reaction disk inside the booster. This will cause a long pedal throw followed by the brakes suddenly grabbing and nose diving the car. There is a good write up on this in the brake section or in the FAQ section on brakes.

Did you adjust the pushrod between the booster and the 280ZX MC? It has to be adjusted longer. see :http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=46973 Another question that comes up often is "is the reaction disk in the booster missing". There is a write up in the brake section on this.

I am having the same problem. Hope you will post your solution.

Substituting 30 amp fuses is inviting meltdown of your wiring or a fire. Don't do that. Find the cause of the problem or find a stock used wiper motor that works. Try the Z Barn etc. Do more research on wiper motor upgrades. You might find a replacement that is prewired so it is plug and play. Go to ClassicZ and search.