hughdogz

Can we get fries with that? There's not enough cholesterol... It's a sacrilege to brew beer that lightweight (unless it comes in a can).

Stephan, are you going to also triangulate to the front? (radiator core support) The ones in the back won't need them, unless I'm missing something obvious. Are you in town this weekend? I live just down the hill from you

The stock bolt pattern is ~2.875" x 2" and that one looks square. Why stick with the stock DP?

Hi Brian, it is the little metal box that is mounted on the coil bracket. I'm not sure how to test it, other than swapping to a known good one. The AFM connector is located on the side, but you have to pull it downwards (after removing the retaining clip). Are the spark plug wires crossing? Try swapping back to your old ones, some leak EMI so bad... Northwestz.org is the only Portland z-car club that I know of. Hope this helps!

You win the plugged Supertrap / Cat identification Award!

I think changing the diff oil worked! No more noise just taking it around the block. I'll have to bring it up to operating temps to know for sure. I need to do some tuning runs anyway [Edit: there was a little bit of metal particles collected on the drain plug magnet, but not too too bad. I also flushed it a bit and the gear oil was pretty clean coming back out.]

Thank jmortensen! That is exactly what the Tech said at KAAZ. You're the Jedi master for drivetrains He reccomended that I simply change out the oil, to see if that helps. Otherwise he suspects a pinion bearing. I just got back from the Ford dealer with some Motul friction modifier for the gear oil change. I'll see if it does the trick. The customer support at KAAZ is awesome! Ray asked all the right questions, and didn't try to sell me something I didn't need...kind of. They have a new unit out that has 16 clutches instead of 8, and doesn't have the dreaded "knock-knock" sound!! Ray says there is a guy in Texas working with him to develop a carrier specifically for the S30 / S130 R200's. I'm betting it's RossMan

Hi Guys, This happened last night. Just coasting or having it in gear without any load makes it whine / grind like no other. It sounds horrible! My question is whether or not the clutch packs are ruined at this point. I think the gear oil went bad. For a KAAZ, the oil is supposed to be changed every 5000 miles. I've only put on ~2500 miles going to L.A. and back. I used Valvoline 80/90W gear oil and almost two tubes of CRC LSD oil. Another possibility is that I mounted the exhaust too close to the diff, but there is at least an inch of clearance, and the exhaust is wrapped and sealed with high-temp paint... How can I tell if I need new clutches? They get "ridged" or something? I'll post pics later...I'm hoping they got glazed and I can clean them off (slim chance) Thanks for any input -hughdogz

Stencil Ratsuners!!

1) I don't know for sure, but I'd guess it will fit if you turn it "backwards". You'll get at least 1 inch more forward clearance. I think the choice of air filter will play a big role. 2) They will fit (barely) those will have 4.5" backspacing, which is considered minimum clearance before the rim will hit the strut tube (or tire hitting the lower spring perch) 3) My Sparco Milano seats are a bit too wide. Not sure about Corbeau's. Doesn't MSA sell them and the brackets? I asked Sparco if they made brackets to fit an S130, and they didn't. Six months later, they did so I have those installed. 4) No pic, but I know somone that has them installed in his ZXR. They are the same ones that fit the S30 (I have an Autopower in my 260Z). The bolt only to the forward part of the wheel well. You'll have to cut the interior panels with a hole larger than the tubing, since you have to clear the mounting flange. -hughdogz

Hi yetterben, I think AzcarBum might still have a type I and II (Bryan Kostrabra). JCCJDM.com (or something similar) Hope this helps, -hughdogz

I've read "Nacelle" or "Headlight Nacelle" as being the proper term. -Hugh

Isn't the fan a "reactive device" (as opposed to a preventative one)? I thought it only came ON when the key is OFF.

Interesting... Makes me think of RPM = Horsepower * 5252 / Torque

This program still has a long way to go 1) The one billion dollars allocated for the program was used up in the first four days. Now we are hoping to add two more billion 2) There were so many incoming applications, the server crashed. 3) When dealerships submit the application, the system sent back an acknowlegement that said "Approved". The dealerships thought that meant the application was approved, but it only meant it was sent on to processing. 4) Many of the applications were denied due to poor credit history of the consumer (or whatever). The dealerships thought they were approved, and since they were not, many lost $4500 on the deal.

Nice take-yari pipes!!

You could replace the safety pop valve with a 1" NPT plug from the hardware store, or add a stiffer spring: 1) Another method is to get a big drill bit and drill away just enough of the rivet material on top of the safety pop valve in order to pull the cap off. This way, you can push it back on and it will stay on. 2) With the cover off, push down on the retaining plate and rotate it ~1/8 turn to remove it. See that there is the stock spring and the valve. Remove the spring. 3) Get a really stiff spring from the hardware store (about 1.25 => 1.5 inch diameter) that will be a bigger diameter than the stock spring, but still fit inside the housing. You may need to trim it down a bit (remove coils to shorten the length). 4) Re-install the retaining plate and the springs. It may take a lot of force to do so. This may be the easier route if you cannot remove the POV and plug it. Hope this helps! -hughdogz

You have to run Honda wheels if they are 4-on-100mm bolt spacing...you probably already knew that though. All S30's and S130's (and early Z31's) run 4x4.5" or 4x114.3mm bolt patterns. Honda wheels run 4x4.25" (or 4x100mm). Honda studs are M12x1.5 and Nissan studs are M12x1.25. Hope this helps, -hughdogz

The wastegate is "fully open" @ 7 psi gage. It starts "cracking open" at a slightly lower pressure.

What I did is just remove the PS pump and loop the lines at the rack that went to the pump. It makes the steering kind of heavy, but not too bad. Then get the manual stuff later. So far, I have only have a manual crossmember. I think the mounting flanges are closer together for a manual rack. Anyone know if manual gearboxes came in more than recirculating ball? That giant gearbox would interfere with my turbo for sure.

Oh man, this sucks to hear MJ. Hopefully the only thing you'll lose is the Z, but it sounds like it wasn't really your fault anyway. Bah! Keep your fingers crossed they'll give you some money for it. I think the lawyer might be good advice...otherwise you might be able to get a "public pretender" (defender) but I think they still cost $$ if you're found at fault.

1) Make sure the air filter isn't plugged and check for vacuum leaks. Cracked hoses and boots... 2) There is an idle air regulator that allows air to bypass the throttle body when warming up. Make sure that is hooked up. This may be why it won't idle until warm...there is an idle adjustment screw on the manifold 3) The hesitation to accelerate might be poor spark (make sure the coil is throwing a decent spark), airflow meter out of adjustment (too rich / lean) or bad ECU connections. Make sure all the connectors are clean at the ECU, AFM, injectors, etc. Spray them with electronics cleaner and blow with compressed air. Sometimes they get so corroded with green oxidation you have to sand or scrape it off. This is the classic problem with older Bosch L-jetronic EFI. Then, push them on and off a bunch of times to get the surfaces nice and conductive before you finally connect them. Make sure you check the timing, and the compression ratio (turbos are lower compression) should be 120-150? but all cylinders should be about the same. Be sure to get a Haynes manual and read as much as you can. Hope this helps! Welcome to HBZ [Edit: for an '82 Turbo, timing is 20 degrees BTDC +/- 3 degrees @ 700 RPM for manual, and 650 for an auto (+/- 50 RPM) Minimum compression is 100 psi, 142 psi is normal pressure]

That Macfaden-Dale place is awesome. Our brake caliper bolts tend to vibrate off and MSA didn't carry them one year. Then I remembered TonyD's advice and ten minutes later, we have bolts!!