mobythevan

I was at the junk yard this last weekend looking at the C4C section and it contained a 300ZX twin turbo, looked like it was a nice car.

All I'm saying is that until you tear it apart you don't know how easy or cheap the fix may be. Maybe it cracked a ringland and made a deep groove in the cylinder wall and just re-ringing isn't an option. Don't tell anyone, but I have never gapped a set of rings and I'm running 14psi boost on 12:1 compression in my eagle talon. Pull the head and inspect. Hopefully you can just put in new rings and lighlty hone the cylinders. You'll be bak on the road in no time.

Don't jump to conclusions yet until you look it over and know for sure. I had a smoke out problem once and went home to start feeling bad that my turbo and engine were shot. After I got over the shock and looked into the real problem I had been leaking brake fluid in the booster and it got high enough to be sucked into the intake. Probably not your issue, but diagnose the problem all the way before giving up or making the wrong plan.

In the installation sticky there is a section from Tony D. that describes more details about the crank mounted CAS vs the Dizzy CAS for turbo cars. Let me know if you don't see it, sometimes things are buried a bit.

I have not had problems with my own installs. The one install the friend did, which is detailed in this thread, had problems do to poor installation. I think it comes down to poor gournding, poor connections, poor soldering of boards and running noisy signals next to the rest of the wiring without shielding. I have avoided all those issues and have not had problems with my installs on many different engines in many different cars.

Cool, always good to see megasquirt LS1 installs.

I have a question before deleting this thread: Is your middle LED programmed to be spark?

There is a place in Kansas that still rebuilds the master cylinders and brake boosters. If you local heavy duty truck parts dealer doesn't know about them then PM me and I give you the phone number of the shop I went through and they can hook you up with the contact info.

In any given week that many rotaries blow, so I can believe it.

I think you guys are overthinking this. Read the spark section of the manual and try setting the timing with a light. Let me know if that doesn't work out then we can discuss specifics.

Your car is one of a kind and deserves the attention, congrats

I had a cop on me at 1AM a long time ago when I worked at a convenience store that closed at midnight. Back then I was not passive and tended to get fed up with these games. He was following along very closely and I put my blinker on and turned in a car wash before he made up his mind to follow me, then I pulled right out behind him and followed him to the next intersection. After he started into the intersection straight I turned right and started driving away. He pulled a U and turned to follow me again, then pulled me over for nothing. He didn't give a ticket or warnings, said he liked the country music I was playing and said he just wanted to follow me long enough to make sure I wasn't drunk. I have several funny stories about getting pulled over that didn't result in tickets when they should have

That sounds correct. Once you get dizzy locked down near the correct area you can go to the timing light and make the final adjustments in megatune to the trigger angle. That will make the timing in your spark table match the timing light.

Made an update to crank sensor input mods on v2.2 boards. I did not include instructions for all the components that need to be removed.

:cheers:

That is it, you have discovered why you are having trouble searching. You need to dig. When I started with my turbo swap I looked more than 40 pages deep into the search and was able to find gold. It took a few hours, but then the swap went very easy. 12 pages of search results is very little to read through IMO. The best info is in the stickies, but we can't sticky every thread so take some time to look up the rest, it is there.

I used a relay board on my first install, made things easier on me being a newbie. Since then I have only used a relay board on my LSx install. I mounted it in the engine compartment so that I would have a good place to scope signals since the LS1 install support was thin. The relay board makes the install a little easier, but does add more potential problems as Rolling Parts points out.

Using the rules to your advantage = cheating? You decide. I say no. I am very happy to see some hype for drag racing. Without some controversy what fun is any competition?

1. 1986 RX7 -- 2000 LM7 with LS1 intake, oil pan, accessories, LS6 cam, 160# injectors, T-6 76mm turbo 2. Powerglide with brake and 4500 stall converter 3. Granny's engine mount kit, deleted power steering and AC. 4. Twin walbro 255 pumps and Megasquirt ECU 5. Started June of 2007, Finished September 2008 (need a new turbo right now) 6. Ford 8.8 rear mounted with Granny's torque arm kit and watts link. Link to build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127466

I only run an alternator and the water pump in my rx7. Here is what I did just to add to the mix.

What does a cranking compression check show with the new cam timing?

Excellent, good to see the car stay in the family.

Just for an experiment I would connect both lines to a tee at the same spot and see what they read. Then I would go with the megasquirt reading. My cheap boost gauge is not accurate, it reads about 3 psi different than megasquirt. It does not point at zero when the car is off.

The drive shaft for the turbo dizzy is different than the NA dizzy. I have swapped them with Prox in the old days. There is another difference, the spacer with the NA dizzy.