jeffer949

I couldnt count either. And currently my car is running like crap but hopefully some magnecor plug wires that are on order will fix the problem. But for a good while before i wrecked my car it was running great. And i mean great. It was so much fun. completely dominated my friends modified twin turbo S4 that he has like 25k into. When i get down int he dumps this may be sad but i throw in wangan midnight. lol Gets my heart pumping, and gives me the drive to do some more work on the zed.

Id leave it for now but once its up and running with it cold take a pair of hemostats and pinch off the hose and see how long it takes to warm up. Then do the same for it open. I would imagine it has something to do with putting a bypass on the system so that it doesnt put a huge load on the water pump from it trying to push water where it cant go with the thermostat closed.

Hey your in my neighborhood. I just moved here but If you need help with the zeds let me know. Honestly if you want 200hp the cheapest way is probably going to be a turbo swap. And as for reliability, it doesnt get much more reliable than the L6 engine. Yes you can get 200hp N/A but it will take some head work and your going to need a flat top piston motor to start with. Write me a pm and we can talk maybe even get together sometime

Could just be so it warms up the engine quicker.

Im running a surge tank with the stock unbaffled tank

Hrrm didnt know this. Wonder how much it will help in the 1/4

why do you need the trigger wheel? why not just use the distributor?

Most spacers have one side that is taller to cover that.

I would make it as wide as the exit hole and have it follow a nice gradual and maybe even flow it into the vents you have there already.

well just do the math 60% of 205mm and 60% of 195mm. I think you will have to have some sidewall. I would be more worried about getting the size that will look correct and then focus more on buying a quality performance 14" tire. Oh btw 10mm in tire size looks bigger than you think

Hey challenger a few weeks ago i was at a meet and a guy had 14" rims with 195x60x14's and honestly the tires looked way to small. didnt fill up the wheel well at all.

Start with the body and get it to where you want. Everything else bolts to the body. So get it looking and modified the way you want and then start with the parts that bolt on. Engine should be last in my book. (not saying I followed my book) but if i had to put it on paper which way to do it i would do body/paint suspension/brakes interior engine

cool stuff but can i suggest you change the font or the color of the font on your web page. Its really really hard to read. But I did like reading what i was able to read. Seems this is going to be one of the wildest s30's ive ever seen or even heard about

Here is a picture of my set-up. The "ideal" place is as close to the TB as possible as you want to keep as little air as possible moving the wrong way. The air bounces off the TB plate when you close it. You want to give it a place to go out as soon as possible so you dont put any back pressure on your system. That being said there are some circumstances where you do need to put it farther away. For instance turboing late model mustangs requires you to mount BOV before the MAF but you cant have it right next to the MAF as it will cause alot of turbulance and cause the wrong readings. Most set ups I've seen for those cars have the bov on the endtank of the intercooler. Then there is just the reason of space. Sometimes you just cant fit it where it should go.

There is supposed to be tension. Now your diaphragm should be air tight. If it isnt you more than likely need a new one.

That guy with the 1200hp viper was at the track the last time i was there, but he was in his porsche at the moment. i think his best time was a 12 flat at something like 116 or something like that. I ran next to him when i did my best run of the night at 12.8 at 110

nice. Ill have to look at it when im in town in OCT.

Did you get it in Ormond and is it red? If so ive seen it. And if i would of known he was selling.... well lets just say you wouldnt own it. LOL thats what my next project car is going to be i think. But i need to get a daily before i do that

One of the top 3 coolest things ive ever seen was a space shuttle launch at night. I think it was back in 2003 when i was in school in daytona beach me and me and a few friends drove down on bikes to watch the launch. So bright and so loud. Just amazing. Im supprized rick hasnt strapped some sort of rocket onto a car by now!!!

Ive never used one on one of those motors but i do have one on my L28ET. But when i was researching i think i came across a forum on supramania.com about them using it on the 2jz. I believe they where using the bigger hx40 though as the hx35's and hy35's where running out of breath at high RPM's Id do a search on it though. I think i was searching for a holset oil restrictor on goggle and the thread popped up.

the 88 SS version also had a viscous lsd in it

Well i ordered Some magnecor wires. I hope that will help/fix my problem. What wires are you running phil?

Just put a rubber cap on the vacuum port. On the note of the spacer adding torque. Im not going to say it works but i do know that on 2cycle dirt bikes you can change the torque/HP by moving the reed cage closer or farther away. The farther away you put it the more torque. The closer you put it the more hp. Now we are talking a few foot pounds or 1 or 2 hp but there is a difference. Also that is on a 125CC dirt bike. I used to keep spacers in my tool box for different tracks. A long wide open track i would take the spacers out. But if it was a real short tight track i would put one or 2 in. These where total of 10mm max in thickness but you get the idea.

Ive done that so many times. It doesnt really matter

Im with ya phil. I havent tried everything as im flat broke. My birthday is tomorrow so im going to convince my mom to buy me some magnecor wires for birthday/I fixed her mini van for 15 bucks by resoldering a PCB rather than buying the 450 dollar replacement. Seems like a somewhat fare trade. Its so fustrating trying to figure this out. As it was running great before i took her down for 2 months to paint her and then when i get her back on the road she starts running like crap. Here is something else my car does alot. Sometimes when im driving along it just dies. And i have to turn my key off and turn it back on and then it will basically start up again with no big deal. Ive done all the coil stuff and taking out the MSD box and just running the coil with no luck. Im so close to just rewiring the whole MS even though i know thats not it. Just pisses me off that its not something I can pin down.