grannyknot

I don't happen to have $140,000 kicking around at the moment but here is a swap worth dreaming about, https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=18648

How is that possible? Camber adjustment at the top of the strut and at the bottom on the LCA will only give 1-2 degrees of adjustment?

AHEM! Canadian supplier There's these guys, http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/33.htm or these guys, https://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-triple-sidedraft-weber-carb-and-fuel-injection-conversions.html Any filter that fits a Weber should also fit a SK/OER

Sounds like a plan, I did a similar swap into a 74 TR6 and it was a blast, the 2001 engine will be fairly light. There is lots of bad press about the WC T5 but I never had any problems with it. Good luck.

Or you could just go with adjustable lower control arms and leave your strut towers stock.

Now I see, I was wondering why those rectangle tubes where hanging out there, I like your camber adjustment on the cross member.

Same here, donated before the thread on possibly shutting down Hybridz. Thanks

Dom, you may only have a couple of guys actually posting to your thread but you have dozens of others watching and ready to jump in if it looks like we can help, at the moment you are getting good advice but we are all here to help. Glad you stuck around.

I think ROTA calls it bronze, 16x8, 0 offset, Grids

Beautiful condition, you have a very straight car and as you say, perfect time fix the few things that need doing. The only thing I can see that looks modified is the cut out for the muffler tip, looks a little larger than stock. What are your plans, will you take it back to the original blue?

Yeah mine points up too and although that bothers me the worst part is the urethane is so flexible that when you get up to speed the center of the air dam distorts and pushes back in.I made a splitter lip for it but its real purpose is to keep the air dam from bending in the wind.

I have a set of g-Force Rivals so just went to check them, all good so far. I'll be at the track tomorrow so will check them again half way through the day, thanks.

74_5.0L_Z, thank you for your help, just checked and the top of the strut is definitely behind the ball joint so I have some pos caster. I know not to go back to that alignment shop, can't do simple arithmetic or tell positive from negative.

My worst caster setting is neg -2.9* and I have to make that at least pos 4.0* Can anyone tell me what 7 degrees of movement translates into in inches?

All 4 T/C bushings are new rubber, I wasn't sitting in the car when the alignment numbers were recorded so that might work out well for me. If the car isn't sitting perfectly level is the only option corner weights?

Great stuff, good write up. I did this last winter and am very pleased with how well it integrates into the Z. Bruno's control unit has this weird little 2 second delay before it kicks in but I never need more than an 1/8th of a turn of the knob for lots of assist. I like how you managed to use so much of the Saturns steering shaft, I couldn't get that stuff out of my donor car.

Okay, I've been starring at the numbers that the young guy at the alignment shop wrote down and he has made some mistakes in his arithmetic when showing the difference between sides and ALL of his numbers are negative, no positive numbers, I went back up to the shop and confirmed with him, so these are the real numbers, Front L R Difference Caster - 1.8* - 2.9* - 1.1* Camber - 0.8* - 1.0* - 0.2* Toe 0.0 0.0 0.0 Rear L R Difference Camber - 1.0* - 1.1* - 0.1* Toe - 0.40* - 0.69* - 0.29* So as I understand it the front caster is weird, wrong and I'm not sure what to do about it. I need a smidge of camber on the left front and I would be okay for a street car, same for the rear camber and the rear toe should be equaled out. Does this look like I'm interpreting this properly? Thanks, Chris

This is your bible, http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm Can you post links to where it recommends not to ground to the same spot? My rule of thumb was if a wire has anything to do with MS then ground it to the same spot, the system is running perfectly.

Ah, makes sense now, I will try to phone him.

Thanks guys, Jon, so you are talking about moving the crossmember to the right or body to the left while the bolts are loosened? All they gave was the hand written sheet, this was a local alignment shop. I will take the car down to Whitehead Performance this week, they deal almost exclusively with older Z cars. Strangely enough I think it handles well up to about 70 mph then it starts getting a bit squirrely, maybe I've just gotten use to it. Thank you

Now that the build is finished http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122185-m-powered-z/ I took the car for an alignment and here are the numbers, EDIT Please see post #7 for the real numbers. The shops printer was down so they wrote them out for me, the rear looks pretty good but what could account for the big differences in the front? The springs are Eibach lowering with Illumina shocks, no provision yet for adjusting camber or caster. Thanks, Chris

That was just painful.

Topstage is making some beautiful stuff for the s30 but I don't think they want to sell to NA, I have emailed them several times saying I am committed to purchasing their front aero spoiler but they haven't gotten back to me, maybe I should phone.

After that happened to me I not only replaced the hood cable but attached a permanent wire to the release mechanism that hung down the fire wall and next to the transmission so if it ever broke again I could lay down and reach under to grab the wire. I'm sure it will never get used but...

Chris Hamilton, where are youuuuuuuu? Here's hoping you are just laying low until you re appear with a finished product.