Leon

For my own records: Shim stock measured .0778-.0785" across the entire 12"X12".

Thanks Takashi! I just got back from my vacation on Sunday, wish I could do that more often... How's your Z doing, getting close?

I'm finally ready to put the top-end together. Rockers were done by Delta in WA and the valve-train is from Iskenderian. OK, more like almost ready. I've got the cam tower shims programmed up and ready to go into the EDM. I'll pop some holes into the Al shim stock and hopefully have some nice tower shims in the next day or two. On another note, I registered for JCCS today. Time to start planning the trip (but first finish up wedding and honeymoon plans).

That's a great idea!

Don't waste your money. You have a wideband already which is WAY ahead of what a colortune can do.

No cam or crank yet, but I did take advantage of yesterday's beautiful weather to prep and paint the block right before leaving for vacation (paid the price for it via a hostile fiancee )! Primed: Painted: Also, found a brand new Nissan L28 head-gasket in my stash. I assume it's for an early L28 but I haven't confirmed.

Regrind from the stock cam is the way to go, due to the matching wear surfaces.

Another thing to note from that chart, is that the higher your grip conditions the more sensitive brake bias becomes with regard to maximum deceleration.

Not only that, but optimal brake ratio changes depending on grip. You want more rear bias in rain and less in the dry, due to weight transfer effects. I've attached a chart I have from a braking spreadsheet I did back in my vehicle dynamics class (don't look at the discontinuities at the tips ). The model is a generic "street sedan" weighing 3220lb, with a 55/45 weight distribution and 3ft high CG. It shows three conditions: wet, low grip, and high grip. In the wet, optimal brake force distribution is 60/40. If your brake force dist wanders to the left of the vertex, your rears lock up first (too much rear brake force). The opposite is true when going to the right of the vertex. This applies to all 3 braking conditions. For a "set-it and forget-it" setup, you need a bias that never locks the rears first. This means setting your bias to the highest grip condition. The con is that your braking distances will be further increased when using this bias on a lower grip surface. For example, you set bias to 86/14 for the high-grip condition. Then it rains. You now have 70% of optimal maximum deceleration on that surface with your set-and-forget bias. Again, these are numbers using a made-up car and approximate mu values for grip conditions. It's simply an example that illustrates what's going on. Braking Chart.pdf

Wow, interesting ad to say the least...

Great compilation, Takashi!

Nice Mike! Looks like a great LeMons/Chumpcar entry.

I think this is the type of curiosity and thinking that we welcome at HybridZ. Looks good to me, at a glance. I would call those "torques" and not "moments", but that's nitpicking. Luckily, designing brakes isn't as complex as engines or suspensions. To dial in the balance mathematically, you need to now the friction force between the tires and road, vehicle weight, wheelbase, CG height and CG longitudinal placement. With that said, our car is already designed so jumping in and finding optimal balance empirically makes more sense, especially given the lack of info on CG locations and tire data. Brake force needed can then be back-calculated to see how much pedal force is needed, knowing tire, rotor, and piston sizes, and pedal lever ratio. The Brake Handbook by Fred Puhn is cheap and a good read, if you're interested.

Correct, piston area affects braking force, not pad surface area. This is physics 101: F=μN. Brake force depends on the coefficient of friction between the pad and rotor (μ), the amount of force the pad exerts on the rotor (normal force, N), and rotor diameter at which the force is exerted. It's the force that matters. Two small pistons don't necessarily exert more force than one big one, it's the combined area that matters. I don't know the piston areas off the top of my head.

Dyno time!

I'm pretty sure he did, but I didn't check (nor know the differences between the two off-hand).

Nice job!

Yes, they were both maxed out.

HBZ Rules sirbinly, sorry that such a mess has been made of your WTB thread...

FWIW, the 260Z prefix was "RLS30". R means L26, H means L24 or L28, depending on model.

Unless the car is tuned properly for the catalyst (controlling its temperature which is AFR, CR, Timing and cam dependent), the converter will degrade in a matter of months. As for the other question, see above.

Not around here. I bought rust free rollers for <$1k and drivers for ~$3k. Come to CA and buy it here, then ship it back. All you really need to do to make it look like a 240Z to anyone besides knowledgeable Z enthusiasts is change the bumpers. A decent set will run $300-400 plus you'll need some $40 brackets (or make them yourself). BTW, there is no need to have 18 arrows and 53 periods at the end of a sentence.

There's a good chance they're SAE threads, as T-B alludes to.

I sent the P90 cam to Isky for a custom regrind today. I also heeded Steve's advice and took a crank pulley along with a couple of flywheels to the shop for balancing. I'm hoping I get my bottom end stuff back by next Friday, but I'm not sure what the timeline on the cam will be.

I got some Duplicolor engine paint at O'Reilly, Pontiac DE1610. It's about the closest you get to the stock color. I also got some self-etching primer for the block, as recommended by my engine guy. The WD will be removed and I will be cleaning everything obsessively, that's for sure. Thanks Jim!