Scottie-GNZ

To all the folks who like to use WW fluid, help me understand why. Is it cost? You certainly do not want to put anything but pure methanol and pure water in the engine. As previously said, some WW fluids have other ingredients that you probably dont want in the engine. The better WW fluids will probably cost $2-3/gal. Pure methanol will probably cost between $3.50-4.00/gal and if you do a 50/50 mix with water....do the math. Its not like you are pulling up to Walmart and filling up your tank with 15gals of the stuff, so why put contaminants in the engine if it will cost the same or maybe less to use the right stuff?????????????????

Dont think you have quite grasped what HybridZ is all about If the purpose of that list was to give HybridZers a giggle at how Supra owners spend their $$, then I am giggling. If it was meant to give hybridZers an idea of how much money they should expect to spend, then I am giigling. IMO, that list serves one purpose: Giggle at the mentality of most Supra owners, and the fact that most of their toolboxes is in their wallets. VISA/MC/AMEX. What HybridZer in their right mind is going to spend $1500+ for an FMIC or $5600 for a single turbo kit or $1800+ for engine bay polishing/chroming? I am probably being rude making this post, but most of the items in that list and especially their cost really have no relevance to this crowd. Everything that most Supra owners are against is what HybridZ is all about.

quicker240Z, sorry to hear Sonny had so much problems. I ran the D36 diff in the RX7 until a coule of weeks ago then retired that setup. Never broke a outer stub or CV but the FC RX7 units are stronger. Over the last couple of months I broke teeth of a ring gear and then off spider gears. Nothing wrong with the setup but with an estimated 650rwhp and a 100-shot off the line, I was way past the limit of the D36. Ernie, I know exactly what you are saying and glad we can talk on that level. I understand exactly what you are thinking and assume by "ladder bar", you mean a torque arm in the tranny tunnel. I still would not mount the rear of the torque arm on the rear cover though. Here are a couple of other ideas: Forget about the moustache bar and hang the diff with brackets to use the diff cover eyelets either like I have in the picture in my 1st post with the cover shortened. You could also leave the batwing uncut and hang it like I have in the pics in this post. Uncut, the batwing eyelets end up under the longitudinal frame rails and you can see how I made those brackets. Sorry I do not have better pics of that but sure you will get it. For the torque arm, consider making the original C4 aluminum torque arm work. It goes over the nose of the diff and connects to a TH700. It is kinda big and might not fit in the tunnel. We tried that on FD RX7. If it does not fit, you could mod it to fit. If you do not have access to one, I have one you can use for trial fit if you pay for shipping it to you. You might also consider making your own torque arm similar to the one in the pic. That is what I will be using on my 8.8 solid rear swap i am working on.

In case it is not obvious to folks, that is our very own JohnC (John Coffey).

So what's the point of that old joke, John? You trying to discourage Zers from buying your mount kit :D

Thanks for reemphasizing that point and if someone was looking to pump up an L28ET to say 400-450hp, they would need to spend $$$ on everything in Justin's list except the exhaust manifold.

CONGRATS!! Another Z-monster comes to life.

AWESOME!!!!! Congrats and it will be interesting to see how much quicker the car will go. So much more potential.

There was a gorgeous blue V8 Z at the inaugural SEZ that had exactly what you are looking to do. Did not get a chance to check it out closely and do not believe he hangs out here. Only thing I remember is that he was using the stock Z halfshaft and broke it. What a surprise My FC RX7 had exactly what you are trying to do with custom inner stub axles, (see pic below) allowing use of stock RX7 TurboII CVs which are very strong. I understand what you are trying to accomplish but not sure if it is the best option for you. I did it because I needed a very high ratio (3.07) with an LSD. The DANA36 diff was only available with 2.59, 2.73 and 3.07 ratios. There was supposedly a rare 3.20s ratio but never seen or heard of anyone having one. Aftermarket 3.54 ratio is available for about $400. Yes, the DANA44 is stronger and has more availble ratios but you will need a king's ransom to get one. Fitting the moustache bar assembly on the D36 rear cover is probably not doable as the mounting holes in the center of the cover are probably not strong enough. See the pic below. You do have other options in the Ford 8.8 used in the T-Bird SC and late Explorers which is also aluminum case. Your other option is sticking with the R200 if you can find a LSD. None of the options are easy/cheap. The D36 diffs are cheap but will require a lot of mods to make it fit and tricky/expensive to solve the axle issues. No point in doing this and end up using stock halfshafts. The 8.8 diffs are even cheaper and should be easier to mount the moustache bar assembly but you have the same CV/axle issue. The R200 is the easiest but probably the most expensive as you need to find an L$D, R&P if you need taller than 3.54 and the CV adaptor kit. Not trying to discourage you in anyway just pointing out the reality. Unless you are a fabricator and can weld aluminum and have access to inexpensive machine work, the R200 might be your best option since you can get the car going for nothing and keeping searching for the necessary parts. Good luck.

Good writeup but I do not agree with everything you said. I will correct you again and say the Aristo turbo engine IS the JDM 2JZ-GTE. Building a 2JZ setup can be expensive if you must have a getrag 6-spd and all your parts from Greedy, HK$, etc and you must match the ridiculous dyno numbers the Supra crowd likes to to tout. How fast does a 2JZ-powered Z want to go? Well it only needs mid-400hp to break into the 10s and 600hp to scare yourself silly and require proper safety equipment, certification and license. My heavier FC RX7 has a stock Aristo 2JZ-GTE with $100 used USDM cams, a $350 single header, old-school T72, pump gas and meth-inj and is pushing mid-600 at the wheels based on 139.6 trap speed and 3050lbs. HP is capped to avoid being thrown off the track because I only have a 6-pt. I said all that to make the point that a lightweight Z-car does not need to spend a ton of $$$ like Supra owners to go fast, unless hey are looking to into the 8s.

More innacurate information. The Aristo and USDM Supra engines are both 2JZ-GTE with the differences being the cams, turbos (minor) and oil pan sump.

I am with Justin and his "blood out of stone" comment. You have nothing to prove to yourself or anyone else. Dont take the car apart, just put a better turbo on it and be amazed. My buddy ran a 71 240Z with NA block/P90 head, SDS, Spearco FMIC, T3/T04, my DP/3" exhaust, 3.54 open diff, 225 street tires and with 22psi on pump gas (not recommended), he went 11.7 @ 119. With better tires, a little race gas and a more aggressive tune (timing), it would have been quicker.

If I ever blew the engine in mine I would definitely replace it with an LSx/T56 or 2JZ/R154. I would imagine most M3 owners are mechanically-challenged so that company has a corner of the market and can dictate pricing. However, no basic swap kit, no matter how well it is designed and fabricated, should cost that much. I can only imagine what a full kit with the 8.8 IRS swap would cost. Certainly more than an E36 M3 is worth. Then add the cost of the LSx/T56 with a new clutch! I will probably never get to do this swap since I do not expect the engine to go south. Like a 911, you have own, drive and live with an M3 to really appreciate one.

No need to "build" a 2JZ to make to make 600rwhp on pump gas, just add an alky kit and the right bolt-ons. Last Wed night I trapped 139.65mph and with a weight of 3,050lbs, thats about 650rwhp. It is a bone stock JDM GTE with stock USDM cams and old-school T72/p-trim @ 27+psi. A more efficient GT turbo and mild 264 cams on a stock long-block will meet your goal and be ultra-reliable.

Awesome progress!!! Looking forward to seeing it run at SEZ. I will probably have a good view of it from behind in the other lane :D

I use this formula I found a gazillion years ago and find it fairly accurate. Multiply the tire diameter by 2.905. When using a slick, you need to add expected growth to the tire diameter. In this case I added 1" of tire growth. You then divide that number by the final drive to get MPH per 1000 RPMs. However, final drive is the diff ratio * gear ratio and if an automatic, you have to add converter slip. In this case final drive is 4.88 and I multiplied that by 1.1 to add in 10% slip. So, a 10% with 4.88s is equivalent to 5.368!!! In your case, you have a 31" tire on a 15" rim and we will assume 1" growth. You also have 5.13s and we will assume 10% slip. My calculation says you will get 140+mph at 8,500. Far be it for me to contradict ATI, but if RIP is seeing 146.5 @ 8,500 with 4.88s, you can bet you will see less as the calculation says. How did ATI come up with 150s? My calculator says 154 with zero slip. Impossible!

Yup, you forgot to factor in converter slip in your calculation. If you are getting 146.5mph @ 8500, then my calculation says you have about 10% slip based on 1" of tire growth. 4.56 will get you another 10mph. Seems like something in the 4.30s would be ideal to avoid having to swap again.

If you plan on footbraking the car, IMO, with only 500hp at the crank and an automatic, I would go with the R200 and CVs until it breaks, if it ever does. Different story if you plan on using a t-brake.

AWESOME!!! Unlimited potential.

Need a telephone number to get in touch with him. PM me.

Yes, GSL-392 is the one you want.

Suweeet!

Glad to see you swung the deal. See you at OSW tomorrow night for some shakedown passes? Do not be afraid to run that thing hard.

The boostwerx kit allows you to use an unmodified TH400 and standard GM converter. That means you do not have to cut the tranny bellhousing or use any hybrid stuff. There's more to these things than just the adaptor and in the end, the hybrid method could end up being more expensive. Of course, if there is a clearance problem then I guess there is little choice.