evildky

CHTS? timing been changed at all?

I'm an autocrosser, not familiar with the road racing class rules, is fitting the larger valves in the E31 not allowed? the N42 also has the larger valves but without the liners found in the exhaust runners of your N47, and if your trying to keep it cheap, you can have the pistons milled a bit to get adequate clearance

does it tick at all at start up? I've colapsed a few autocrossing and with the valve cover off and the lobes off the followers you can push down on the lifters and pretty easily tell which ones are goners

if you want a smaller combustion chamber use the E31 and fit it with the larger valves, I say custom pistons, if your going to be competing in scca road racing the $500 for sutom pistons is just a drop in the bucket

I don't believe the 75 has the best flow it just has a lot less crap on it, no EGG, no webbing, makes install and servicing easier, I can have my intake nae exhaust off in half an hour, try that with the stock turbo setup

I'm sure the open R180 isn't helping, I ran a 13.1 with a stock junkyard motor at 10 psi, but my car only weighs 2105

I flipped mine over and mounted it directly to a non egr intake, re-clocked the cable linkage, made a cable mount for the manifold, and used a Z31 throttle cable

my current engine has the multilayer nismo gasket which I recall as being copper? I really don't remember just that it was multilayered with crush rings around all the passages, which might have some sort of a leak now as I've been informed that when racing when I let off the gas I emit lots of white smoke the new gasket is for a different engine in a differnt car, also an L28ET and I'm hoping to build a fresh 3.0 bottom end this winter

so I just got a copper headgasket form IPP and it's solid!? currently running a multilayer Nismo and got this one for another build and it's solid!? also comes with a tag that says to apply a thin layer of pipe dope around water and coolant passages, should I just coat the whole thing with copper spray? or try some sort of sealant around the passages? not sure what to think of the solid headgasket, anyone else running a solid headgasket?

we have a local guy that put a VG30ET into a 1g rx7, kinda tight around the steering, still stock and he's planning on attending the GRM challange with it, the L6 is gonna require some hood clearance

the bigger turbo is a must for 300 or more hp, the bigger injectors are also needed for anything over 275 ish whp and to acurately control the bigger injectors a stand alone is helpful but not needed, but highly recomended

the stock TPS uses only 2 wires, thats why it won't work with megasquirt, it's just an on off switch

you should be running 5-7 psi stock, check the afm connectors as this is typical and check the fuel pump, if possible get a fuel pressure guage and run it inside the car or on the hood where you can see it when you boost it should climb from about 40-60 psi, also verify taht your wastegate actuator is holding the wastegate door shut, the actuator arm pushes the lever on the wastegate housing, and of course look for any possible boost leak, and check for free spin in the impeller

megasquirt has it's own learning curve, your better off getting it swapped with the stock electronics adn upgrade later once your more comfortable with it

I remember seeing a history lessor of sorts dealing with aerodynamic's before the modern windtunnel, they wouod put little dags of grease in a grid on the car, when they drove the car the grease would move and make a track across an area clearly showing where the wind was pushing it, might not be rocket science but it's an easy to get a definitive answer as to where the air is going and how you can better utilize it to cool the car

so you hooked the MSD to the MS without the extra board mods? I thought you had to add a transistor and capacitor in order to run the msd?

sorry I didn't read through your second post, how about the distributor? you still running the stock optical? I had one fail intermitantly, also the pulup resistor for the dist signal good? and from a good power source?

yeah tons of completed MS for sale look on ebay as well, either way MS or SDS if your gonna be upgrading to turbo later go with the stand alone now or stay with the carbs till you go to the turbo

stock 183k junkyard motor with megasquirt I have the rev limiter set at 6800 and I use it, with my old stock 2.4 on carbs with MSD and an electronic distributor I frequently ran to 8k while autocrossing, no power up there but beats upshifting just to downshift

what makes you sure the problem is the spark? I recall having rev issues when my fuel pump was dying, it simply couldn't keep up with the demand, you got a fuel pressure gauge? also I burnt a few HEI's before I bought a flamethrower HEI and it has far outlasted the delco units

the 75 intake just looks cleaner without the useless EGR and the lack of webbing makes it easier to get off and on especially with a turbo car, the TB's are rpetty much interchangable, some had an off boost valve on the bottom but it will run without, your best bet is to run aftermarket such as Megasquirt or keep with one setup complete from one donor, and I believe there are 2 different AFM's for the N/A's if you plan to go turbo I'd go with megasquirt as you can still run it with the turbo and you don't need the afm

I saw it mentioned already but didn't look like you responded, you did bleed both the inboard and outboard tanks of each caliper? also can help to give them a few wacks with a wrench and of course be sure the nipple is at the highest point

I have the CSR it stick out about as far as the mechanical pump and is about as big around as the stock pulley, it appears to be a generic electric water oumo that they use on any bumber f engines just with different mounting bases, in the case of the L6 it's just a machines piece of aluminum with recessed holes for the supplied alan head bolts and then the motor just bolts to it with 4 more screws, my car is race only but it seems to do a decent job of keeping things cool at idle, I do seem to build up heat when running, perhaps it can't keep up with constant high revs I don't think I would trust it on a road race car

the problem is imobilizing the shaft on the turbine side, it's giot that wierd shape and no standard wrench fits it, so until I can lockdown the exhaust side i can't remove the nut on the compressor side