HowlerMonkey

I'm struggling this week to get our rpm probe work with as many different systems as possible. Might have to sample from the injectors on some cars as dyno dynamics dynos are finicky on displaying rpm. With an automatic transmission, I need accurate rpms since roller speed multiplier isn't going to be super accurate.

It will take me a few days to check as I am in the process of moving but I wanted to touch base. I will update you in PM with what I find on this end for confirmed pricing and availability.

I still wonder if anybody has enlarged it enough to fit a full size spare?

I get them for like 12 bucks from the local junkyards off of any VG30e engine.......later is better simply because the part is newer.......I forget what I pay for it with the coil. I also get the little resistor/condensor, the coil, bracket, and a bit of harnessing that has the connectors and find they work great for Z31 or even L28et. It makes for a neat and tidy package.

We've got tons of them here at the local wreckers. Just the hubs or do you need brake brackets and the two piston calipers and rotors?

You've been PM'd.

I have no sources on TB48 but coming back to this thread and seeing this video has gotten me interested. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gzdDrelqSI I'm sorry that I have no knowledge of finding this engine in US but will share whatever information I find.

Chevy made small body distritubors for the 80s and 90s TBI and TPI engines. You can pick them up used at wrecking yards for 30 bucks and experiment. Though designed to work with an ecu, you might be able to modify some harnessing and use components commonly found at the wrecking yards and use it and I'll bet MSD makes a system that plugs right in. I'm sure someone has figured out how to do it cheaply but it will take some searching and I'm not sure they ever came with vacuum advance. You might find that the output from the stator is identical to the one from the HEI or you could go the route of using the ECU from the tbi setup with a map sensor and having a prom burnt that will give you the functionality you desire and possibly more like the ability to control an a/c idle up soleniod or even cut the a/c compressor at your desired rpm/load. If they made one with a vacuum advance, the easiest route would be to find someone who found a way to use it with the normal HEI electronics but with an external coil. Lots of options but some are difficult.

Call up magnaflow and let them know that they would sell more product if they could get approval for larger diameter pipes in addition the the ones recommended for the application. They might simply get approval for the larger diameter.

I'm pretty sure the front stuff is the same with possibly spring rates being the only difference. I know the rear has two different shocks depending on the year but I have put entire spring/shock assembly from late 1982 car into a 1980 car with no issues.

I thought it did pass smog. That said, I would still listen to the testimonials of others receiving dirty parts and incorrect assembly.

Strength of the splitter and whatever it mounts to is important. At the mile racing events, I see between 2 to 5 cars that come back with the splitter either missing or dragging the ground.......including our twin turbo ford GT that failed downward and dragged the runway effectively reversing the intended effect. Since this happened north of 200mph with the car feeling fine to the driver and watching the guys I work with make a pathetic attempt to remount it to components that would surely fail again, I simply removed the splitter and we have been running without it at speeds over 283mph with no ill effects ever since. That said, a Z car is a far different beast and will surely require some sort or dam or splitter to manage the air going under and reduce lift..........just make sure it's strong because having it fail and running over it could end up like the camaro that crashed at the texas mile recently.

Biggest thing is making sure to ship from large cities to large cities or you could very well wait a very long time. I bought a M30 located in Norfolk, Virginia for shipping to west palm beach and two shipping companies could not ship in in 2 months. I flew up to drive the car back down to florida but found that the rear shocks had zero damping that caused the rear wheels to leap off the ground almost a foot on bridges and attracted a huge amount of attention from other drivers. I simply drove it 100miles to washington DC. instead of 900 miles of bouncing like the van in Cheech and Chong's Next Movie and it only took one day to arrange pickup and shipping for 450 bucks. Pricing is one thing but availability is much better in a major metropolitan area.

If you add up the total volume of all oil passages, it would probably be more than a quart. There is a secret squirrel technique to backfeed the pump. I used some clear plastic tubing and used a plastic tube connector to fit it to a funnel. Then I removed the oil filter and stuffed the clear tubing into the oil gallery that feeds the filter (not the one in the center but the hole in front of it) by stuffing it in pointing toward the front of the car as much as possible. I removed the T fitting from the block and screwed the sensor in it's place to ensure no air was being drawn in. I got it in about 1/2 an inch by squeezing and prodding it after carving a taper into the end with a razor blade. Then you put a bit of oil in the funnel and crank the engine by hand backwards. CAREFUL!! some engines with very worn timing chain or tensioner might not like being turned backwards and could possibly skip the chain because turning it backwards will compress the tensioner inward. You should see the oil going down the clear tube if you leave a bit of an air bubble to use as an indicator of flow. If you crank half a quart or more and fill the filter, you should get pressure once you put it back together but you might want to do more. After the priming, I took out the oil pressure sender, reinstalled filter, and watched while cranking with a remote starter switch until I saw oil coming out and quickly put the sender back into the T fitting and reinstalled the turbo oil supply tubing......and cracked loose the 17mm line on the turbo. Then I cranked it until I saw oil at the turbo. I actually had to do this twice since I did it once and got zero pressure.......because the fully primed pump was bad. If that happens then you have a bad pump or a pickup that is sucking air since you just guaranteed oil is in the pump by the above proceedure. I replaced the pump with another I had lying around and repeated the process and got pressure right away while cranking.

http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/9000/fastest-standing-mile-–-street-car We're going for 300mph in a few months and then will drive the car home.......and through McDonalds drive-thru for some cookies. It's probably the highest mileage ford GT in existence because it is daily driven unless it's in for upgrades.

Been checking out some land speed record classes and it seems you can get the VG20 at "under 2.0 liter" and use the vg20 crank in a vg30 at "under 2.5". I was wondering if anybody has played with the various displacements of the VG engines? Results?

I would buy the egr control unit if you had it.

About 70% of the times I have seen this, it is after a stereo installation in which one of the OEM wires providing lighting to the original stereo or panel lighting nearby is shorted to ground.

The timeframe of failure means the part is on the engine and subject to engine heat. Some will refire after "getting over the hump" and run all day just fine..........until the next cold start cycle. This normally points to the electronics in or on the distributor.

What is the angle of the transmission vs the KA engine as compared to the L engine? I think there might be an angle difference of sorts.

Which permatex? I'm not a big fan of the non-hardening brown stuff because I've seen this happen before as well as seen gaskets using non-hardening permatex products actually squeeze out from between the two parts they are sealing a few hours later. You come out the next morning and find gaskets sticking out. Some swear by no sealant at all but that strategy depends on a perfect surface. At toyota, I used only a very thin film of their red threadlocker and installed them right before I went home. I like loctite 603 or 609 now.

I walk around the upull yards where you find volvos and saabs and can usually come up with something that is very close to optimal after trimming.

I think they make wrenches for inner tie rods on steering racks that might fit the bill......still might come up short, though.

Thanks.....any possible sources is good to know. I'll have to use what fits best. I haven't studied the SD engines too much beyond servicing a few forklifts and I've since moved on to boxy cars with two doors simply because it's hard to find body and interior parts for the older rear drive nissans. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8042/8023620398_c07e14aa62_z.jpg

I'll bet this would help the LD28 I am rebuilding for turbo usage. Thanks for blazing the trail for others to follow.