Six_Shooter

I find it entertaining how people, who I would assume have never driven a car this low, especially the particular car in question, rag on how "un-usable" it is, when everytime a car this low comes up, the articles always say often it is driven, and on everyday streets... Just say'n.

When I changed my springs last summer, I had to lower the whole assembly out of the car. I didn't touch the spindle pins, I removed them by disconnecting the front diff crossmember and the rear retainer on the uprights.

If you were closer, I'd pick up which ever trans you didn't use. In the research I have done lately, I haven't found any indication that there were any appreciable differences over the years, of the Z32 trans.

I really like the look of those Prosport EVO gauges.

LOL! I love how people immediately assume that because a car is low, that it can't be driven... even though every article that has a said low car, always states that it is driven daily or driven often. I like aspects of the Z in the linked speedhunters article, but I'm sure there are nicer cars that should have won "readers car of the year." I'd like to see some better pictures of the heater control panel modifications and what was done for heater control.

I also have not heard of any issues with the OEM turbo components. I've been running an L28ET exhaust manifold on my car for 4 years, without any issues.

An actual picture would likely help more.

Are you testing with the rotor pointed at that cylinder's plug wire terminal? Maybe you have an issue with the cap, rotor or wire(s).

Just to clarify, the spark you are looking for is from the coil output, not the negative terminal itself, that one should be a small spark, if any when using a jumper lead.

Timing won't affect the intensity of the spark, just when it sparks. Have you tried using a jumper to ground the coil to check for spark intensity? Keep in mind, the spark happens when you disconnect the negative trigger. This will determine if the coil is at fault or something farther upstream. Also you haven't verified if you disconnected that second wire from the coil negative.

Try disconnecting that second connection on the coil negative. Use just the output from the ICM. I'm not sure what that other wire would be for. You will also need to swap your tach for a later model tach to function correctly. The '73 tach is "current triggered", this change requires a "points triggered" tach. A tach from a 280Z will work, though some do require an internal resistor to be bypassed. You won't need to run a ground from the ICM to the block, when I was running mine I had a single drywall screw through one hole in the module to the inner fender, and worked fine for about 8 months, well it probably would have worked longer, but swapped to DIS.

I just uploaded these pictures of my knob... Momo shift knob Here it is with my Momo steering wheel:

An update: I got a Momo wheel and adapter with a parts car a few months ago, the wheel was pretty trashed, and too small in diameter for my like anyway, but the adapter was worth keeping, so I decided to find a different Momo wheel, and found a shift knob from the same guy. I paid too much for them, but they feel nice while driving. I swapped my steering wheel and shift knob for Momo items: Stock wheel: Momo wheel: Momo shift knob: Both together: The wheel that came with my parts car, I really wish it was in better shape, and slightly larger in diameter: I swapped in some 260Z belts as well. I did have to make a hybrid of the 260Z and the 240Z belts to fit them to the car without any cutting or welding. I swapped the lower retractor mechanism from the 240 belt in place of the 260 retractor. I had to disassemble the mechanisms, down to the basic components, and then wind the new belt on to the mechanisms. 260Z belt on left, hybrid on right. Close up of the lower brackets.

Here is a direct link: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html With the voltage staying high on the negative side of the coil while cranking, this indicates that there is either no trigger or a weak trigger signal to the coil negative. Having 12V on the negative coil terminal with the ignition on, engine off is normal. What you should see is the voltage on the negative terminal fluctuate and drop to near zero with a DMM on the DC voltage setting. You can actually use the AC voltage setting on the DMM, to test for proper trigger, if you know what to look for. Posting some pictures of what you used and how it is all connected will likely help to sort out your issue. FWIW, I used a GM 8 pin ICM on my car a few years ago, when I did the EFI conversion, so that I had computer controlled timing. I have since gone to DIS.

I know I have the wiper transmission, I also have a motor, but I'll have to see if it's a 240 motor, or a 280 motor.

I don't recall what it was, what I do recall is that I ran a pipe tap into it, to use an off the shelf 90* pipe nipple, IIRC I used a 3/8" NPT tap.

From what you posted, I would stay with the carbs. Don't get me wrong, I love my EFI, but if both are tuned well, there should be insignificant performance differences and the amount of time and money you put into maintenance might be about the same, in the long run. If the EFI upgrade used something other than the stock electronics, you could pull some better driveability and fuel economy out of it, but the stock system is pretty crude, though it does get the job done.

It doesn't look un-repairable. Slightly tweaked on the strut tower, but not a write off. There are people around here that would kill for a shell like that, even with the tweaked strut tower. I'd repair it.

Wow, talk about complicating the fuel hose routing... On my car (a 1973 240Z), I ran a new 3/8" feed line, and used the original feed line for return. I installed a 90* fitting to the tank bottom, where the original drain is located, feed line then goes to a Walbro pump in the stock location, behind the axle and next to the right rear tire. The fuel filter is located above the pump, then feeds the new 3/8" line that runs up along the original fuel line path, then loops behind the engine where it connects to the fuel rail. The FPR is located in the spot where the original mechanical pump was located, where the outlet then goes to the original feed line, that returns the excess fuel back to the tank. I've been running this for 4 years, without issue.

Where is that located? You can solder a new wire to it, but it looks like it would be tricky, due to the short amount still attached to the sensor itself.

It's not a BRE Spook, it looks like an Air Dam that was only available in the Euro market.

What do you have to control boost? Just spring of the WG, or is there a solenoid controlled by the MS or other controller? Check the hose that goes to the gauge, there may be a small hole in it that opens at a pressure closer to 10 PSI, then closes and allows pressure to build again to around 10 PSI, rinse and repeat, I've seen such things happen before. Any leaks in the exhaust, especially pre-turbine? Those can cause some serious boost control issues. Where is the pressure source for the WG connected? Some pictures of the set-up may help figure out what may be an issue.

Impact gun on the crank pulley won't turn it fast enough, if it will turn it at all. All I see happening is tightening the crank bolt too much and possibly stripping the threads. Need a starter or motor that will turn it at least 300 RPM.

Oh no, not that car....

If that's the ad that I think it is, I e-mailed him a long while ago, and asked him what kind of LSD it was, he said he "didn't know." So I passed. I'm glad I did. Sucks to buy an open diff for that much though. Hopefully he's a decent guy and refunds you.