bradyzq

Very cool! Absolute pressure and theoretical pulsewidth will be proportional to each other, assuming VE and target AFR or lambda are constant. That's why they're both often used as Load axes. Older BMW ecus use the theoretical pulsewidth concept too, if you're looking for more to compare to. The Audi Quattro ecu though similar, has a mechanical fuel metering head and flapper door, so fueling will be different as the injectors are continuously on. Have you checked to see when the AFM maxxes out? I wonder if it's around the same time as you have to start requesting a richer target than you actually want. Of course you'll see how far spring tension tweaks will get you!

You could always try a BBE coating on the calipers, and maybe the drums.

BTW, good job on your YouTube channel. I subbed.

Those are crank degrees. So swapping leads around won't help. According to msextra.com you should be ok at zero, running in "next cylinder" mode. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#MSnS How about the physical position of the rotor to the pin on the cap? Maybe it's firing off the edge of the rotor. I would suggest lining the rotor up so that the rotor is pointing directly at the pin on the cap with the engine at about 30Deg BTDC. That way, your entire operating range of 15-45 degrees-ish, is as far away from the corners of the rotor as can be.

Re: the ignition wall, what is your trigger angle set to? Sounds to me as if it might be in the mid 30s,which is a no-no. If this is the case, try reclocking the distributor so you can achieve a trigger angle NOT between 20 and 50 degrees.

First, I suggest setting the itbs so that you can achieve a warm idle of say 900 rpm as mentioned, WITH IAC BLOCKED OFF. That way, you know the absolute lowest rpm you can achieve with the IAC. Now unblock it. Try to incrementally increase duty cycle in 5% steps starting from zero. If the idle starts to drop towards 900, you are on the right track. Find the lowest point and make that your minimum DC. Edit: umm, basically, what madkaw said...

What frequency are you operating it at?

Now THAT is a flat spot! Getting that stereo to work, if it doesn't now, would be awesome. Good luck with the resurrection. Mine's been in storage for only about 15 years, so you give me hope.

I've often seen Bosch IACs closed at around 20%DC, not 35. Have you physically confirmed via idle speed that 35% gives the lowest?

Why dump the return line? You can plumb the triples setup exactly like the stock EFI. TANK ==> PUMP ==> FILTER ==> CARB CARB CARB ==> FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR ==> RETURN LINE ==> TANK

Sorry for answering a question you didn't ask, but since you're tackling your crank trigger issue anyways, I strongly suggest you do better than SDS and its one tooth/magnet every 120 crank degrees, and go with a standalone that can take advantage of a much more modern and precise trigger setup such as a 60-2 (every 3 or 6 degrees) or 36-1 (every 5 or 10 degrees) trigger wheel. BHJ offers both options on their dampers. Another option is to build your crank trigger wheel and damper with parts from Hybridz member Hoke Performance: http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit SDS works. I've tuned a few. They have good tech support on the phone, they're friendly, and they're Canadian, all big plusses. But time marches on. There are many other ECU options that can be had for the same price or better, and that provide much more precision and tunability than SDS.

IIRC, I remember seeing Pantera hatches in an old paper Arizona Z Car catalog from the 90s. Maybe he has the moulds buried somewhere, or a lead.

If I understand correctly, you have the complete N42 engine in your car now, and a fully assembled P90 head on the side. I would tune the existing setup on megasquirt. At least that way if your turbo plans change or are delayed, you will still be driving something that is meant to be together, not a transitional setup. When you go turbo, you can swap the whole P90 head on at that time.

Seal at threshold of door and front of window frame?

Thanks.

Thanks. First ZCON I went to was St. Louis in 1993. THAT was a drive! Branson looks to be about 250 miles farther. Call it 1400 each way. Hmm, got some work to do on the ole girl... I am upset I couldn't make it work for this year's event. Hopefully 2019!

Where is ZCON in 2019?

@Ironhead, I agree that the proof is in the pudding. However, have you ever heard of an engine actually being damaged by a correctly prepped and applied high quality ceramic coating flaking off? I haven't. And @TimZ hasn't grumbled about losing an engine due to coatings. I'm a firm believer in the external coatings. They work wonders on cars like MR2turbos where heat is an even bigger challenge than usual. And I think the whole poohpoohing of internal coatings by some established engine builders can be compared to carb guys' saying they've never had a problem before, all the while being blind to huge benefits of EFI.

You won't find longer gearing than the 3.36 rear end you already have, at least not from Datsun. As already mentioned, your best bet is to get a 6speed.

Have you measured pressure after the air filter but before the compressor inlet? Your pressure ratio across the compressor might not be what you think it is.

FYI, Porterfield offers shoes for the factory drums. https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3986 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=12839 https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3985

True, but there's the factory painted-over sound deadening that you're describing to deal with on the inside. I figure you can be less delicate on the underside, and since the undercoating is not factory, it may come off more easily.

Would it be easier to look on the underside of the car? It's just the other side of the same floorpan.

Not Z specific, but clos-ish. I've run many Porsche 944's on my dyno, for a loose spec race series. They put out around 140HP at the wheels for "stock" wink-wink engines. There were many different exhausts among them. And the ones that were the noisiest and most piercing were the smaller diameter ones. I was surprised by that. Exhaust pipe diameters ranged from 2.25" to 3." Back pressure is bad. If the engine is viewed as an air pump, you'll see that a larger exhaust is always better for power at any RPM. It simply doesn't have to work as hard to exhale. Now, practically, a 3" exhaust is more expensive for pipe and muffler, heavier, harder to fit, and will sit at least half an inch lower than an ideally tucked 2.5 inch exhaust. Motor Trend Engine Masters Episode 9 features a 2.5 vs 3 inch exhaust comparo on a 454. 300ish crank hp per bank. Worth a watch.

Is the head stock? It might be worth looking closely at it. Don Potter cams were not like Crane or Comp Cams. You had to know about him. So, the chances are better that it was a more serious build if it had a Potter cam. That might have included head work.