jhm

ArizonaZCar offers several brake kits that include 5-lug options. I don't know if Dave's machining his own hubs or repurposing another OEM hub, but might be worth looking into if the Silvermine and T3 options don't meet your needs. Good luck with it.

Sounds like you've got at least a couple sets of the correct rotors by now. 4 x 103mm (4.055") is indeed the correct hole spacing for the rotor mounting, and has nothing to do with the lug spacing for the wheel studs (4x114.3mm), as confirmed by the others. If you don't have the FSM yet, you can download it free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. Front rotor replacement is covered in the "Front Axle" chapter.

Have you seen this thread? It doesn't sound like binding has been a problem (yet) for anyone, but you could always slide an oversized "sleeve" over the bolt, between the two mounting eyes on the control arm...use simple steel tubing to make the sleeve.

Very sorry to hear about the health problems. Big props to you for pushing through all that and continuing to do the things in life you love. Hard to tell from that picture....but I'm guessing it's just a fuel pressure gauge. You shouldn't really need a fuel pressure regulator with a carb'ed system. Take a closer picture and post it, if you have the chance to do so. Mr. Gasket stuff? My personal opinion is that it's mostly junk; but if it's working for now, I'd leave it until it fails. I'd recommend sticking with major reputable companies like Holley, Edelbrock and Russell Performance when it comes time to replace components in the air and fuel system. I would recommend changing that small air cleaner at some point, if you have the room to do so. It's amazing how restrictive an inadequate air cleaner/air filter can be on the engine's performance. For repairs and modifications that you're not comfortable doing yourself, stay away from shady mechanics and repair shops (and there's a million of 'em.) Go to some car shows or "Cars & Coffee" events, to find out where local car enthusiasts take their cars to be worked on. Once find a good mechanic/repair shop, you'll never want to take your car anywhere else. Keep the questions coming....that's what this forum is for!

Possibility of head gasket issue: perform a compression test on the motor. "Smoking problem": where is it smoking from....tail pipe or engine compartment? (Edit: your videos weren't loading for me earlier; but they seem to be now....I'll go back and review now that they're working. I agree with NewZed's assessment for smoke in the engine compartment; as well as coolant sitting on top of intake manifold.) (Another) engine swap: How are your mechanic skills? If you're doing the work, it can be done affordability or expensively, depending on how wild you get with it. If it's a high-end swap like an RB, it will be expensive (quite a bit more than $3300). If you're paying someone else to do the work, it will be WAY more expensive. Goals for the car: what are they? You haven't mentioned why you bought the car or what you plan to do with it (I.e. Intended application), but that should guide all your decisions regarding mods and upgrades. Budget: unless you're Bill Gates, decide now what you want to spend on the car, and moderate your goals based on that budget. Engine swaps and performance builds will go through cash like you wouldn't believe, and a lot of people unfortunately don't learn this until they're deep into the build....and end up selling the project, half-finished and torn apart st a huge loss.

Glad you found a solution that works for you. As an FYI, I believe silicone is also a good material for vacuum hoses, and can be bought in various lengths, diameters, and colors.

I "third" it. If the shell sagged significantly with the doors removed, you'd have much bigger problems to consider. If you're worried about it, just make sure you use multiple jackstands and supports at multiple points under the car whilst doing the work.

I can certainly see that. My leather-covered 3-spoke Grant is my favorite steering wheel of all that I've tried over the years!

One pair (two springs) of coilover springs by Chassis Engineering. Bought as New Old Stock from a local shop going out of business. 7" free length; 2.5" ID, spring rate 400 lb/in. $40 shipped anywhere in the U.S., and I prefer PayPal. Thanks for looking. Springs are sold. Ad can be deleted, if so desired.

Without knowing your wheel width and offset, I think you'd just be guessing at what will and won't fit. If you're not hard-set on staying with the 14" mags, I've seen the jellybean mags in 15" diameter and they look pretty nice. Would really open up your choice of tires. Also, at the risk of stating the obvious, make sure you can run the suspension through the full range of motion if you use some sort of tire sizing tool.

Sorry, I guess I'm just not understanding your goals and objectives here. If tire fitment is your primary concern, you might benefit from a tire sizing tool. You can make your own, or buy one like this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Percy-s-01201-Wheelrite,6761.html?sku=91065475&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD_G2eLaEBmIiz4TPDevxvaftqGoBU2SRD2IHOvJ4zBBHHDml3hgp7BoCLVQQAvD_BwE Be mindful of all the variables here,...as tire size, compound and construction can affect every aspect of your driving experience. Good luck with it.

Looks like the Toyo Proxe R888 is still available, and 225/50-14 would probably be a good size for what you're looking for (as long as your wheels are at least 6" or 7" wide. Very good performance, especially at that price. And even they they're rated at 100 tw, they hold up surprisingly well and do carry "real" tread if you do any driving in the wet. IMO, the Proxes have a much meatier appearance than other tires of same size....overall fatter appearance, which may or may not be a good thing for you depending on your personal preferences. They should certainly have no problem filling up your wheel wells, I would think.

What width are your wheels? And what are your performance/handling/grip/comfort/longevity needs and goals for the tires? That will help determine correct tire and size for your application. Not a lot to choose from in 14" diameter; but Tire Rack is always a good resource to see what's available: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=14 Goodrich Radial T/As are kind of an old standby for street use. Not exactly "high performance", but they wear like iron and will likely outlive the car. And they're available with the raised white lettering. I think I had 225/60s on the front and 235/60s on the rear when I was running 14" wheels.

Put some miles on the springs before making any drastic changes. If you decide that you like them (other than ride height asthetics) for their progressive wind and overall spring rate, there are plenty of tips and techniques for raising or lowering the front or rear end 1/2" - 1" to even things out.

Methinks I will be following this discussion....have a feeling there will be some wild stuff going on with this build!

If you're on FB, I've seen a few people that have installed Apex's track pack or are in the process of doing so. Check out "S30 Life" and "Swapped S30 Owners" pages. I haven't seen any on-track reviews yet, as most people seem to be mid-installation. If you decide to go down this road, be mindful of the long lead time that Ohm cautions about on his website.

I replaced the stock tail lights with round tail lights on one of my 280s years ago; but I unfortunately don't have any pictures (this was way before cell phones and digital cameras). I used two amber and two red (like you're thinking of doing) on a custom flat black rear panel. I used lenses and housings from a C4 Vette. Looked great; very distinctive.

If you're still have some problematic leaks, these may help: https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Flare-Gasket-5WRW0?fbclid=IwAR2U9OrSBqvYxAA40iK6MTtPdmPez9fMe1xevexSOUt4GT3y2jihZZuiNro

You guys may want to move this discussion from current sub-forum ("S30 Series - 240Z, 260Z, 280Z") into the "S130 Series - 280ZX" sub-forum....might have more visibility in the correct sub-forum. Your call.

Ummmm, I have a silly question: would you have better luck searching for this information on a Subaru forum? Personally, I like these two; but I'm sure there are several other good ones out there. https://www.subaruforester.org/ https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/index.php?

I would contact John, at ZTrix, directly to enquire about the car...he'd give you straight up info fir sure. He's on HBZ here, or you could contact him through his website...he's very responsive IME.

Unfinished kit/project cars are never worth what the seller thinks they're worth, and they're even further from what the seller usually has put into the project themselves. "What's it worth?" is kind of a tough question to answer; but I would be surprised if that car ultimately sells for more than a few thousand. Most of the time, it seems like the seller puts an unrealistic price tag up, and the thing just sits for years....continuing to deteriorate. You'll have to decide for yourself how bad you want it; but I would look hard at the condition of the metal shell (as an AZ car, it's hopefully pretty solid and rust free) and the condition of the fiberglass and install work accomplished thus far. Some good questions to ask of the seller are who made the body kit, who did the install work, and how long ago was it? You will also want to see what chassic bracing was accomplished to compensate for the loss of the roof structure (particularly if you're considering putting in a V8 or some other high output power plant). If the seller can't adequately address all those questions, the price automatically goes down. McBurnie was a popular producer of the convertible Daytona kits years ago; but they were often for early Corvettes, which was a much better platform for this body style IMHO....I don't recall if McBurnie made Daytona kits for the S130. As one final thought, anyone that thought that rear "wing" was a good addition to the kit may have some serious judgement issues, which hopefully didn't carry through the rest of the installation work. That thing looks ridiculous (just my personal opinion.)

Good advice from @primaz....I'd add to it that you should probably wait to take your measurements until the brakes/hubs are installed. And don't make your final decision on wheel specs until you've fully investigated tire options in those sizes....your tire needs (budget, comfort, performance, choice of compounds, etc) can often drive the wheel decisions as much as anything else.

Forgot to mention that your lighting system (both running lights and headlights) will benefit greatly from the addition of modern relays in the circuitry. You can wire in your own relays, or purchase pre-fab kits from Dave Irwin (https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/) or MSA Auto. Benefits include better current flow to the bulbs (directly from the alt/battery), and less amps flowing through the 50 year-old combo switch. These upgrades are particularly important if you're still running old-style bulbs and sealed beams, but they make sense also for anyone that's upgraded (e.g. LEDs, etc).