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@heyitsrama, Hey Amar, do you notice the fuel leak all the time; or just at the track (e.g. long fast left-handers)? Your fuel cap may not be making a tight seal. If it's a stock cap, you can try bending the little metal tabs to tighten it. If it's a locking cap, many of them don't fit tightly enough to provide a good tight seal. Old BMW locking caps can be made to work nicely, but they're no longer in production and pretty hard to find these days. I have the stock tank still, and have to use the stock non-locking cap to prevent leakage any time I'm at the track....I only use the locking cap for street driving. Regarding difficulty filling your tank....have you modified the stock tank hosing? If so, that may be the root cause of the issue. The tank needs to move fuel freely within itself, and be able to vent air (both for ease of filling, and to prevent pressure build-up during operation.) The stock evap tank allowed this, but lots of people (including myself) remove it. The "hose loop" method mentioned by @Twisted46 usually fixes most of the issue. Good luck with, and good job getting your lap times down!

No, well-built clutch LSDs are actually very effective, especially in racing applications because of they're tuneability/adjustability. Helical are nice because they are quite durable and largely mx-free. The Phantom Grip pos is neither. It's a half-assed attempt to simulate an LSD; but the very nature of its design eats the internals of the differential. Google "Phantom Grip" and you'll see some real horror stories. It may work (sort of) for a while, but it eventually eats the diff. What are your goals for the car (I.e intended usage and application).? That will help determine the best LSD solution for your needs.

Junk design, as Jon M said. It will typically eat itself, and then the rest of your diff, within a few hundred miles. Can't believe they're charging $300+ for those things. Much better off if you can find an OBX for your R200, and then install the washer swap if needed. Or you could check out the MFactory unit offered at a discount in our Vendors' Forum. Seems to be one of the better deals out there for a quality piece...

Just curious....how do you know that you've never hit the bump stops? Have you checked your suspension compression to verify? The reason that PU bump stops are not recommended is that they are exponentially higher in effective spring rate than any spring you'd run on the car. I think the Eibachs are only 180'ish lb/in, so it wouldn't take much to push the suspension through its full range of motion. What shocks are you running with the Eibachs?

Here you go. You may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, but Fat Cat can help you select the best size and composition for your specific application. http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm

What are your goals for the car? How do you plan on using/driving it? And what other mods/upgrades (if any) are planned?

@takeuchi, good to know....thanks for the FYI!

Hard to tell for sure; but those T3 high-clearance tie rod ends appear to have standard tapered pins on them; which obviously means you wouldn't want to drill out the steering knuckles. I would call T3 to verify. I bought T3's adjustable tie rod ends a few years ago; and they used a 5/8" bolt at the tie rod end; which meant I did have to drill out my stock steering knuckles to accept the bolt. They were a different style than these new high-clearance tie rod ends that T3 is offering. Last time I looked at the Apex adjustable tie rod ends, they were also using a tapered pin, compatible with the S30 stock steering knuckle. (Just an FYI, Apex has had some product availability issues lately; so call them to check if in stock before ordering.) Moving your front axles "back" will reduce what little caster there is in the stock suspension...which is the opposite of what most people want (for performance driving or track use.) Why are you wanting to do this modification? P.S. May want to start a new thread; just so this conversation doesn't go off on too much of an off-topic tangent from Vlad's original thread. Your call....

Welcome to HybridZ and the wonderful world of Z cars! I don't think the original sound proofing material is available any longer; I believe it was an asbestos product. And the new products (e.g. FatMat, Dynomat, Noico, etc) are far superior in many ways. There are also several good vendors for new and used OEM-style and restoration parts -- here's a couple I like to use, but there are certainly many others out there: Z Car Source MSA Auto Z Car Depot Also, are you familiar with using dry ice to remove the sound deadener? Mix dry ice with denatured alcohol in a bucket, and then scoop the slurry all over the areas you want to remove the material from....be aware that it will also usually remove any old sound deadener/rust proofing material on the exterior of the sheetmetal as well as the interior. Leave it on for a few minutes and then bang/scrape the material off. It literally freezes and pops off the metal very easily. Good luck with it.

Gotcha. Your wheel offset will also affect the equation, so don't forget to provide that info as well.

If you don't get the information you need here on HybridZ, I'd suggest checking on ClassicZCar.com. Those guys are more into stock restorations and original-type mods and repairs. Besides different tire sizes, have you looked into the possibility of swapping your speedo gear in the trans? That might be a cheaper option. There are also vendors that offer speedo gear converters, in case you can't find the internal speedometer gear you need for your specific application/transmission.

Not sure which manuals you have; but if you don't have the full FSM yet, you can download all years for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. I've had both an early-version and a late-model 260, and the attached pics were fairly close to the relay setup in both cars. Pay close attention to the plug configuration for each relay, and that should help you in the ID process. Keep in mind that the electricals could vary quite a bit from year to year; and the 260 models were transitional, so design and build specs were changing quite rapidly at that point in the S30 evolution. Good luck with it.

I'll put this up here....was useful to me when I had a failing switch in my ignition switch (i.e. the non-keyed barrel behind the keyed portion of the ignition switch). It's really nothing more than a visual representation of the information you guys have already posted/discussed.

Found one of their ads....they are producing several panels that I haven't seen from any other vendor to date. This link is to the "Datsun Parts and Needs" page on FB:

Just judging from that picture alone, the rust situation doesn't look bad. Have often seen much worse in the inner fenderwell area. As long as the integrity of the metal isn't compromised, you should be able to do the standard neutralize and paint procedure. I like this Eastwood product for getting into frame rails and hard to reach places: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=CjwKCAjwkoz7BRBPEiwAeKw3q_J7HiD9mdYO_2hO3fMdcduU45KBE7VH2shUP4yQIzkvbZgxhZ6RQhoCV6AQAvD_BwE I haven't seen many off-the-shelf patch panels for that exact area, other than the Bad Dog sway bar reinforcement plates that you already know about. For replacement radiator core support panels, there's a vendor (based in the UK) on FB that reproduces several hard-to-find S30 shell panels. I think their FB name is "Kim Mays", and I've seen their ads on a couple of the Datsun pages.

I don't have any personal experience with that particular LED conversion kit; but I have tried replacing halogen bulbs with LED bulbs. They put out a ton of light; but the beam management is usually horrible because the reflector needs to be shaped specifically to optimize the design of the specific LED bulb. As a result, you get a huge unfocused beam of bright LED light....but no real benefit in night-time driveability. The results can often be even worse than your halogen lights; and the unfocused beam is often blinding oncoming drivers. If you're looking for quality LED headlights, take a look at Dappers or Trucklites. (P.s. I'd be surprised if those particular LED bulbs fit in the stock Z headlight buckets....those big aluminum cooling fins hanging off the back of the bulb will probably interfere with the metal mounting bucket. Obviously, you could cut up the bucket if you were determined to install these.) For bargain LED headlights, I have used those eBay models. Was surprisingly pleased with both the amount of light put out and the quality of the beam. Several vendors on eBay offer them, and I've seen a variety of styles, with and without the halo. in white and other colors. Most of them are made in China. I had the plain-jane version, without the halos. My next pair of LED headlights will probably be 7" Trucklites. They seem to be a nice blend of quality and affordability.

See page 23 in the BE chapter of the FSM; attached for your ease of reference. You can download entire service manuals for all years, free, at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/ BE Body electrical.pdf

IME, it's not unusual to have play in the differential (regardless whether an R180 or R200, with various center sections). If your's is a CLSD, would a friction modifier additive help this issue you're having now while driving? If you're set on replacing it altogether, consider all the alternatives besides just OS Giken (Quaife, Cusco, etc).

As the others suggested, open it up and confirm what you've got and it's condition. This thread from NASIOC may help: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 We've also had some threads here on this topic. Here's one that may help as well: Just curious if you really need to spend a bunch of time and money on a new LSD if you don't plan to race the car. Would an open diff suit your needs? The Giken's a nice unit, but far from cheap.

They can change vendors for the same part, and maybe the web description and/or instructions haven't caught up. When I installed PU bushings (ES, IIRC) on the rear LCAs, I had to completely remove the OEM bushings (including that metal sleeve.) Hope this helps.

Yeah, you probably already know that fuel starvation is an issue under heavy g-loading....even with as much as half a tank. The fuel cell should def fix it. A small surge tank in conjunction with the stock tank is another possible solution. (Or just keep the tank at least 3/4 full all the time! ) I've had issues with fuel spilling out of the gas cap with certain locking caps, but never with the stock non-locking cap....they seem to really lock down tight and prevent any spillage even with full tank and long fast left-hand sweepers. Are you having any pressure build-up in the tank; and if so, maybe consider how you have the tank "hosed" to allow venting? Sounds like you've got a nice "to-do" list building for this winter!

And regardless of ground clearance, if your car is lowered so much that the LCAs are angled "up" (from inboard to outboard), your suspension geometry will suffer. @tube80z mentioned this, but you may not have caught it.

Maybe post a comment that you're trying to get in touch with them on the company's Facebook page. Might catch their attention and generate some activity in your direction. I've seen Ohm commenting here and there on the FB Datsun pages fairly frequently, so he still seems to be monitoring FB regularly.

Yeah...like every modification, the answer depends on what you're planning to use your car for and what types of driving conditions it will be used in. 2" of total clearance sounds like a real LIMFAC to me, but that may suffice for how you plan to drive the car. (I've seen show cars with much less than that....not very useful for driveability, but has that "stance" look that their owners strive for.) If extreme lowering is your thing, air suspension would probably be worth looking into. I've seen a couple companies that offer air kits for the S30. John Coffey posted these suspension settings several years ago, and they provide a very useful guide as a starting point for anyone:

OK, thx. If your mind is set on rear disk conversion, I would include Silvermine Motors in your search. They offer several kits to choose from and their cheapest rear kit is less than MSA and seems to give you more for your money, except for the parking brake cable brackets. Also, it's very possible that you will need/want a proportioning valve, regardless of which rear disk option you go with...even if the vendor tells you "prop valve not required". When your rear brakes are locking up well before your fronts, that's an unhappy situation. Will depend on many variables, and you may not know for sure until you've completed the conversion. You can get a decent Wilwood valve for $45. Lastly, have you read through all the FAQs threads on rear disk conversions? If not, check it out. Also, you can Google search "HybridZ rear disk conversions" and get a bunch of write-ups from people that have already installed all of these kits at one point or another.