jhm

To be honest, if the gland nut is your primary concern, I personally have never had a problem removing dozens of gland nuts over the years. Maybe I’ve just been lucky. Are your gland nuts square or round at the top? There are a couple different shapes and sizes. For the square ones, I use a big pipe wrench...plenty of gripping power on the nut and plenty of leverage with a long handle. For the round nuts, the pipe wrench may work as well, but I fabbed myself a custom spanner wrench years ago. It’ll be easier to remove the gland nuts if you leave the strut tube bolted to the LCA (vs removing the strut and then trying to remove the gland nut). Obviously, heat and penetrating oil can help if the nuts seem particularly stuck and frozen.

Yes, they move the spindle further outboard, resulting in wider track width and more neg camber. And yes, you should be able to dial "out" the neg camber if you have the right camber plates (the DP Racing plates might allow you to use them in a positive camber fashion. I have the older style NCRAs, which may not even be available anymore. These new adjustable units look pretty nice. Simliar effects (minus the bump steer adjustment) can be achieved with adjustable front LCAs; but you will still have to deal with the increased neg camber. Hope this helps.

Wheel adapter spacers can definitely be used safely; but keep in mind that they add a fair amount of stress on the wheel bearings. Have you considered the T3 bump steer spacers that push the front spindles outboard approx 1"? I've been using them for years and really like them.

Yep, can't disagree with anything that anyone has said here....and I really should have stated that spacers CAN have an effect (vs "will" have an effect). I was also careful to say "effective" spring rate. @calZ picked up on that. It's the same effect one achieves by using an adjustable sway bar...moving the mounting points can change the effective rate of the bar. And my apologies to the OP for taking this discussion even further off-topic.

Also, keep in mind what effect wheel adapters/spacers will have on your effective spring rate.

Rotors are sold.

Website appears to be back up: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/datsun-z-parts

One clarification...IINM, JCI and JTR have no professional affiliation with each other. Mike Knell is the owner/operator of JTR (aka "Stealth Conversions") in CA; whereas JCI (aka "Broken Kitty") is owned by John Ruskin in Dallas, TX. I *think* JCI used to offer conversion kits for a SBC into an S30; but now only offers kits for an LS-swap. JTR seems to be one of the few vendors that still provides SBC-swap kits and hardware.

One pair of used OEM front brake rotors. Rotor faces are in good condition, with no warping or damage, and plenty of life left in them. Yours for just the cost of shipping....$14 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Paypal accepted. Thanks for looking.

Yep, DRW is very responsive and customer-oriented. I've bought a couple sets of wheels from them and never had a problem. They are an extremely well-established company in the racing industry.

Agree with everything @AydinZ71 stated here. Question: are you considering these for use in the rear or the front, or both? They *may* lower the rear (on a 280) by 2.5", due to the tall OEM strut isolator in the rear of later-model Zs; but 1 - 1.5" is probably closer to truth for the fronts (and any early-models that use the shorter strut isolator in the rear suspension.) And if you're still running stock springs, you will probably need to engineer some sort of custom solution for the top spring hat....maybe using the OEM top spring perch and thrust washer? I honestly don't know what would work, to tell the truth. The times I have used those style camber plates, I had already converted to adjustable coilovers with 2.5" springs. Finally, realize that you will get the advantage of lowering the suspension with these camber plates, but you will have very little camber adjustment if you're still running the OEM springs (or any of the aftermarket "lowering" springs that have the same diameter of the stock springs.) The spring and top perch will interfere with the walls of the strut tower if you try to adjust the camber plates by more than a degree or so. What's the rest of your suspension setup, and what are your intended goals for the car? Folks here might be able to steer you in the right direction if we understand what you're trying to do overall.

Aydin, I think you're like me (and many others here)....once I get going with the welder, I just don't want to stop!!

I don't know how sophisticated a system you're looking for, but the universal units (available from vendors like Summit and Jegs) are very light and compact, and push an unbelievable amount of air. I have this one, and I rigged it to send half the air to the defrosters and half to the footwells. Have been using it for four years with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102-1

Are you familiar with this company, based in the UK? I believe that they are producing entire shells from FRP for the S30 and the 510. I don't know if they have a website, but they're on FB at: https://www.facebook.com/frpautomotive/

Yep...completely agree with you there. I like the straight 5/8" hole as well, vs the standard tapered design. Have been using the Apex arms, with straight 5/8" hole for three years now with no issues. They are much easier to work on IMHO.

So which steering arms (knuckles) did you end up going with? (Personally, I agree with your assessment of the aluminum arms from AZC; and I believe that they are still machined "straight", i.e. no "twist" in the geometry like the OEM knuckles have.) Both Apex and T3 offer nice quick-steer knuckles, machined from steel, with the requisite twist. You could use either of these with standalone bump-steer spacers.

Well done, Sir...great-looking results! The original sound-deadening material is notorious for absorbing and retaining moisture.

They look kind of like old 300ZX leather seats; although having two different seat models (driver/passenger) is confusing. Any indication of their origin on the bracketry? If they're aftermarket, there should be some origin stampings on the brackets.

@AydinZ71, great idea....but you may just want to add to the existing thread, same topic.

To throw another monkey into the mix....I've heard nothing but positive feedback about Intrax, but really haven't seen any direct reports of first-hand use on an S30 in a race application. Anyone able to weigh in on this, since we're exploring different options? (I must admit, I'm very much enjoying this discussion and wide range of ideas and options.) https://www.intraxracing.nl/en/products/shockabsorbers/nissan/432-fairlady+z%2c+s30%2c+datsun+240z%2c+260z%2c+280z%2c#partfinder

Oh yeah....forgot to mention....stay away from "this guy" on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Showcars-G-Nose-Conversion-that-fits-a-1970-1978-Nissan-Datsun-240z-260z-280z/113733726948 Dozens of first-hand reports of people getting screwed by him (e.g. never getting their parts, getting their parts but really shoddy construction, etc, etc).

@grannyknot is correct....you only want the prop valve affecting the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. I can't think of any situation where you would want a prop valve on the front brakes, and it's highly discouraged to do so. Your MC should have a big "F" and a big "R" on each reservoir to indicate which is which. An unless you have an early Series 1, all MCs should feed the front brakes from the rear reservoir (on OEM, it's bigger to feed the disc calipers; vs the smaller reservoir needed for the rear drum cylinders.) Yes, you can run the line from the "F" outlet on your MC to a simple tee connection, and then run lines to each front corner from the tee. Believe or not, I had a heck of a time finding a good solid tee connector with nice deep connection ports (to allow plenty of line connector penetration into the threads. I ended up finding one in Latvia on eBay!! 😄 I'd put stickers with big directional arrows on that knob so that you don't forget which direction does what to the brakes (it happens...believe me!) Finally, I know I've mentioned this to you before; but for the benefit of other folks on here, I absolutely love FedHillUSA for brake and fuel line supplies and components. They also have a bunch of good tech articles on their website: http://www.fedhillusa.com/

I'm not familiar with that particular prop valve, Aydin; but new ones can be had very readily and cheaply (30 or 40 bucks for a Wilwood). There are a few choices you'll want to decide early on: do you want to install it in the engine bay (for simplicity) or in the cabin, to give you the ability to adjust whilst driving? And if the latter, do you want adjustment with knob-style or lever-style? I think most folks opt for lever style, as it's easier to use when your concentration is focused elsewhere (like the 95 mph esses you're approaching!) If you are incorporating an aftermarket valve in your system, I'd recommend deleting the OEM prop valve/distribution block....no need for two separate prop valves in your brake system. A lot of people (myself included) also remove the OEM brake system failure warning switch when running new brake lines, and/or building a car for race applications.

There are certainly plenty of options out there....but many of them will be over your budget of $1000. MSA Auto offers several kits under your budget (and even a carbon fiber option right at you budget): https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01a For high quality, really cool, body parts; ZTrix is hard to beat: https://www.ztrix.com/ I've also heard nothing but good reports on rhdjapan for high quality flares and body parts at pretty reasonable prices: https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairlady-z/car/nissan/category/exterior As a side note -- from my experience, it seems like very few vendors offer side skirts anymore -- possibly because they're not as popular as they used to be? I'd suggest that you consider building your own kit....picking and choosing exactly the flares you want, the spoiler you want, etc, etc. I think you'll be happier with the final result, and you'll probably save money doing it this way vs purchasing an entire kit from someone. One last word of caution; I'd recommend staying away from Retro-Spec. They've had several internal issues the last couple years that has hindered their ability to fill orders. They have produced some great products in the past -- I have a set of their ZG flares on one of my cars right now, which I'm very happy with. But I bought them several years ago, prior to the troubles they've experienced in the last 2 or 3 years.

Agree with everything the others have said, and I'd like to stress the point made by @G-Tech....you will have much better luck finding aftermarket OEM and performance parts for the S30.