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Yep...completely agree with you there. I like the straight 5/8" hole as well, vs the standard tapered design. Have been using the Apex arms, with straight 5/8" hole for three years now with no issues. They are much easier to work on IMHO.

So which steering arms (knuckles) did you end up going with? (Personally, I agree with your assessment of the aluminum arms from AZC; and I believe that they are still machined "straight", i.e. no "twist" in the geometry like the OEM knuckles have.) Both Apex and T3 offer nice quick-steer knuckles, machined from steel, with the requisite twist. You could use either of these with standalone bump-steer spacers.

Well done, Sir...great-looking results! The original sound-deadening material is notorious for absorbing and retaining moisture.

They look kind of like old 300ZX leather seats; although having two different seat models (driver/passenger) is confusing. Any indication of their origin on the bracketry? If they're aftermarket, there should be some origin stampings on the brackets.

@AydinZ71, great idea....but you may just want to add to the existing thread, same topic.

To throw another monkey into the mix....I've heard nothing but positive feedback about Intrax, but really haven't seen any direct reports of first-hand use on an S30 in a race application. Anyone able to weigh in on this, since we're exploring different options? (I must admit, I'm very much enjoying this discussion and wide range of ideas and options.) https://www.intraxracing.nl/en/products/shockabsorbers/nissan/432-fairlady+z%2c+s30%2c+datsun+240z%2c+260z%2c+280z%2c#partfinder

Oh yeah....forgot to mention....stay away from "this guy" on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Showcars-G-Nose-Conversion-that-fits-a-1970-1978-Nissan-Datsun-240z-260z-280z/113733726948 Dozens of first-hand reports of people getting screwed by him (e.g. never getting their parts, getting their parts but really shoddy construction, etc, etc).

@grannyknot is correct....you only want the prop valve affecting the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. I can't think of any situation where you would want a prop valve on the front brakes, and it's highly discouraged to do so. Your MC should have a big "F" and a big "R" on each reservoir to indicate which is which. An unless you have an early Series 1, all MCs should feed the front brakes from the rear reservoir (on OEM, it's bigger to feed the disc calipers; vs the smaller reservoir needed for the rear drum cylinders.) Yes, you can run the line from the "F" outlet on your MC to a simple tee connection, and then run lines to each front corner from the tee. Believe or not, I had a heck of a time finding a good solid tee connector with nice deep connection ports (to allow plenty of line connector penetration into the threads. I ended up finding one in Latvia on eBay!! 😄 I'd put stickers with big directional arrows on that knob so that you don't forget which direction does what to the brakes (it happens...believe me!) Finally, I know I've mentioned this to you before; but for the benefit of other folks on here, I absolutely love FedHillUSA for brake and fuel line supplies and components. They also have a bunch of good tech articles on their website: http://www.fedhillusa.com/

I'm not familiar with that particular prop valve, Aydin; but new ones can be had very readily and cheaply (30 or 40 bucks for a Wilwood). There are a few choices you'll want to decide early on: do you want to install it in the engine bay (for simplicity) or in the cabin, to give you the ability to adjust whilst driving? And if the latter, do you want adjustment with knob-style or lever-style? I think most folks opt for lever style, as it's easier to use when your concentration is focused elsewhere (like the 95 mph esses you're approaching!) If you are incorporating an aftermarket valve in your system, I'd recommend deleting the OEM prop valve/distribution block....no need for two separate prop valves in your brake system. A lot of people (myself included) also remove the OEM brake system failure warning switch when running new brake lines, and/or building a car for race applications.

There are certainly plenty of options out there....but many of them will be over your budget of $1000. MSA Auto offers several kits under your budget (and even a carbon fiber option right at you budget): https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01a For high quality, really cool, body parts; ZTrix is hard to beat: https://www.ztrix.com/ I've also heard nothing but good reports on rhdjapan for high quality flares and body parts at pretty reasonable prices: https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairlady-z/car/nissan/category/exterior As a side note -- from my experience, it seems like very few vendors offer side skirts anymore -- possibly because they're not as popular as they used to be? I'd suggest that you consider building your own kit....picking and choosing exactly the flares you want, the spoiler you want, etc, etc. I think you'll be happier with the final result, and you'll probably save money doing it this way vs purchasing an entire kit from someone. One last word of caution; I'd recommend staying away from Retro-Spec. They've had several internal issues the last couple years that has hindered their ability to fill orders. They have produced some great products in the past -- I have a set of their ZG flares on one of my cars right now, which I'm very happy with. But I bought them several years ago, prior to the troubles they've experienced in the last 2 or 3 years.

Agree with everything the others have said, and I'd like to stress the point made by @G-Tech....you will have much better luck finding aftermarket OEM and performance parts for the S30.

There's actually a few good selections in your desired 245/45-16, in a variety of tread patterns and tire compounds: Yokos, Toyo, Hoosier, Pirelli...any of these meet your needs? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=245%2F&ratio=45&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All

If you're planning to do any auto-x or track, I'd suggest "square" size your wheels and tires (i.e. same size on all 4 corners)...this will allow you to rotate all four evenly.

I agree....looks like it's coming along really nicely!! Keep those updates coming!

Has everyone experienced a whole new look for our webpage? Or is it something I'm experiencing because of my choice of web browser, etc?? I've seen this happen before when a forum changes hosts or hosting software. Can't say I'm a huge fan of this new look....but maybe it will grow on me over time. If anyone knows of a way to revert to the "classic" look, I'd love to hear from you.

Yep, you can replace those studs with shorter ones, or shorten your existing studs to the correct length (assuming that there is sufficient threaded length on those studs to do that.) I've also seen people replace the threaded studs with bolts, but that can make it a little trickier to install the diff. Your choice.

There are multiple pinion flanges for the R200; and IIRC, not all of them have the same diameter shaft. I believe yours (large round flange) may be one of those with a thicker shaft. You should be able to get the correct pinion flange pretty easily....seems like there's a lot of them floating around (but you will probably have to change the flange on your driveshaft.)

Glad to hear that it's improving. I forgot to ask if the doors are closing securely, with the new weatherstripping installed. Sometimes the door latches will need to be adjusted (either tighter or looser) to get a nice tight seal after making any changes to the weatherstripping. Adjusting the latches is a simple process....just takes a little patience, and playing with it little by little to get 'just' the right tension on the weatherstripping when the door is closed and latched.

I watched your video and I have to apologize, but I really couldn't see the problem area that you're describing. Sorry. Maybe post another video with some narration, and physically point (with your finger) to the area that's not sealing? If the rubber is cold, try heating it (to soften it) and then "coax" it into the shape necessary for a good seal. New rubber has to "learn" the desired shape, and that sometimes takes a little time. Also, IIRC, you can loosen the mounting bolts for the chrome frame to slightly adjust it in/out/up/down. I seem to recall having to do this with some of my Zs in the past. There's also a technique using tie-down straps to pull the doors together when installing new weatherstripping...helps the new rubber get seated more quickly.

Yep, DRW are high quality; and 16 lbs is pretty good for a steel wheel. My 15x8 Rotas are only a pound or two less than that. Steel is also very strong and repairable. For tires, I've always used this guy for used racing tires and never been disappointed: https://www.ebay.com/str/racetiresusdrrt

Have you seen this thread?

Very cool...thx for sharing that!

Rotors are SOLD.

You posted your original question in the "FAQs" section. I don't know if you (i.e. the author) can delete that post; but if not, an Admin will need to do so. If you want to have a normal discussion thread, just repost your original post in this sub-forum. If you're looking at HybridZ on your phone, the forum structure may not be obvious as to the different sub-forums....but it's immediately apparent if you check it out on your laptop or PC.

If you haven't already done so, I would read all the threads from people complaining about uneven (or unsatisfactory) ride height results after installing the Eibachs. Also, be mindful of the fact that the Eibachs are a progressive spring. Lots of folks (myself included) are not big fans of any progressive-rate spring. In addition to the Konis, as suggested by @JMortensen, you may want to consider Bilsteins as well. Old part number: P30-0032; new P.N. 34-184530.