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@Dwayne_The_Rock_Datsun, FYI, in case you missed it....this thread is 9 years old. It looks like the OP was last on HybridZ 4 years ago. You may want to search other/more recent threads on this particular topic. If you do, I'd suggest using Google search vs the website organic search feature -- you'll have more success with Google search. Good luck with it.

Yes, replacement ignition switches are available. You can buy new, from a vendor like MSA Auto; or you can find a good used one from a donor car. I've had them fail, and it's an easy replacement/fix. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10e07/12-4208 To test the switch, this is what the continuity should look like with the key in various positions:

Anywhere in CA? Or a specific part of the state?

Lately, seems everything sells quickly on FB, unless it gets snatched up first by someone here on HBZ. 😜 There are several FB pages for S30 enthusiasts; happy to share which pages I like, if you're interested. As indicated by the others, that's a very desirable diff and should easily sell for a nice chunk of change. (The finned rear cover is the icing on the cake.). Are you sure you don't want to keep it for yourself?

Since you already have Edelbrock heads and intake manifold, I would call Edelbrock and ask for their suggestion(s). They have excellent tech support, and offer a wide range of cams to fit your specific setup and intended usage.

Yes, the short strut isolator can be used on both the front and rear strut assemblies. You can see the difference between the short and tall versions on the MSA page here: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20n01a

Yep, that looks good. I've seen many instances where the front sits higher than the rear after spring installation; which was understandably frustrating for the owners. And yes, the springs do tend to "settle" a bit over time. Another trick you can use to lower the rear is to replace the tall stock rear strut isolators with the short isolators (used on earlier-year models in the rear, and on the front of all years.) This will typically gain you an additional inch of lowering in the rear. I wouldn't try this until you've given the Eibachs a little time to settle and reach their final ride height.

I'm confused. Have you installed the front strut assemblies yet, with the car sitting (weighted) on the suspension? If not, that should be your next step. You'll want to do this to visually inspect how much bump and droop travel you have with the new springs installed. Those rubber bellows may make it a little tricky to do, but this is a necessary step to ensure that you received the correct springs, and how the suspension is functioning with the new springs installed. Nearly all "lowering" springs are quite a bit shorter than the stock springs, and will sit in the strut assemblies "loose" when the car is jacked (i.e. removing all weight from the wheels and allowing the suspension to droop freely.) One word of caution regarding the Eibachs: while Eibach makes great suspension products in general, MANY people have had issues with their lowering springs for the S30. Inconsistent lowering from front to rear, long settling times, etc, etc. Several threads here on that exact topic. Hopefully, that's not the case for you; and you find that your springs work well for you and meet your needs.

Yes, it certainly sounds like a timing issue -- either ignition timing, or cam timing, or some combination of both. It seems as though the issue first started occurring shortly after you made some repairs to the distributor wiring...is that correct? If so, that gives you some sort of starting point for your diagnosis. As NewZed suggested, things may be bent or broken internally. You can do a lot of inspection without running the engine. Remove the spark plugs and valve covers, and start turning the engine over by hand (a large breaker bar on the harmonic balancer nut gives you plenty of leverage to turn the engine over, clockwise, while inspecting the valvetrain for damage). A small digital borescope is invaluable -- they're cheap and compatible with your smart phone, and can be used to visually inspect all kinds of tight spaces that are hard to access (e.g. interior of cylinders via the spark plug hole, camshaft gear via the distributor hole on the intake manifold, etc). Don't try starting the engine again until you're sure that you have the correct cam timing, and the ignition timing set as close to correct as you can get with the engine off. If you decide that you absolutely need to replace the distributor, you can't go wrong with any of the big name HEI units. I've had good luck with MSD and Accel for aftermarket; and I like AC Delco for OEM.

Aydin, is that the top nut that came with the Konis? I've had several instances with different camber plates that required me to use/find/custom fabricate a different top nut to accommodate the tight dimensions within the camber plate. And I've almost always had to use an impact gun to tighten the top nut, as suggested by @calZ. Also, I replaced the allen bolts with standard hex bolts on my GC camber plates....just seems easier for me when working on them, and the hex bolt head will actually have a slightly larger surface area than the allen bolts heads. Still follow the recommended torque specs. 20-25 ft-lbs, IIRC. Use some duct tape to hold the threaded steel blocks in place (on the underside of the plates) when installing. Nice progress -- keep it up!

Tom, a couple of alternatives to using the fill nut, provided for your consideration: 1) Remove one side axle and fill the diff through the side. 2) Remove the breather on top of diff and fill through the breather hole. These two methods don't give you the ability of checking fill level via the fill hole; so you will need to verify fill level some other way (e.g. visual inspection from top or side...a small borescope camera can be very handy for these types of tasks.) Regarding application of heat...should be fine if you just keep the heat on the plug itself (vs the AL cover). Wrap the outside of the cover (in the vicinity of the gasket/seal) with a wet towel to minimize heat buildup in the are of the gasket. Typically have to apply a couple of heat cycles to break up any oxidation that's built up in the threads over time. Good luck with it.

I've tried using the boots with a couple different brands of shocks, and they never seemed to stay in place correctly (even with zip ties, etc) or they caught up in the springs and got torn up. Gave up on them a while back, and haven't observed any ill effects in last several years. If you're using certain models of Bilsteins (I think both the -30 and -36), it's important to retain the "wiper seal" that's provided with the gland nuts.

To be honest, if the gland nut is your primary concern, I personally have never had a problem removing dozens of gland nuts over the years. Maybe I’ve just been lucky. Are your gland nuts square or round at the top? There are a couple different shapes and sizes. For the square ones, I use a big pipe wrench...plenty of gripping power on the nut and plenty of leverage with a long handle. For the round nuts, the pipe wrench may work as well, but I fabbed myself a custom spanner wrench years ago. It’ll be easier to remove the gland nuts if you leave the strut tube bolted to the LCA (vs removing the strut and then trying to remove the gland nut). Obviously, heat and penetrating oil can help if the nuts seem particularly stuck and frozen.

Yes, they move the spindle further outboard, resulting in wider track width and more neg camber. And yes, you should be able to dial "out" the neg camber if you have the right camber plates (the DP Racing plates might allow you to use them in a positive camber fashion. I have the older style NCRAs, which may not even be available anymore. These new adjustable units look pretty nice. Simliar effects (minus the bump steer adjustment) can be achieved with adjustable front LCAs; but you will still have to deal with the increased neg camber. Hope this helps.

Wheel adapter spacers can definitely be used safely; but keep in mind that they add a fair amount of stress on the wheel bearings. Have you considered the T3 bump steer spacers that push the front spindles outboard approx 1"? I've been using them for years and really like them.

Yep, can't disagree with anything that anyone has said here....and I really should have stated that spacers CAN have an effect (vs "will" have an effect). I was also careful to say "effective" spring rate. @calZ picked up on that. It's the same effect one achieves by using an adjustable sway bar...moving the mounting points can change the effective rate of the bar. And my apologies to the OP for taking this discussion even further off-topic.

Also, keep in mind what effect wheel adapters/spacers will have on your effective spring rate.

Rotors are sold.

Website appears to be back up: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/datsun-z-parts

One clarification...IINM, JCI and JTR have no professional affiliation with each other. Mike Knell is the owner/operator of JTR (aka "Stealth Conversions") in CA; whereas JCI (aka "Broken Kitty") is owned by John Ruskin in Dallas, TX. I *think* JCI used to offer conversion kits for a SBC into an S30; but now only offers kits for an LS-swap. JTR seems to be one of the few vendors that still provides SBC-swap kits and hardware.

One pair of used OEM front brake rotors. Rotor faces are in good condition, with no warping or damage, and plenty of life left in them. Yours for just the cost of shipping....$14 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Paypal accepted. Thanks for looking.

Yep, DRW is very responsive and customer-oriented. I've bought a couple sets of wheels from them and never had a problem. They are an extremely well-established company in the racing industry.

Agree with everything @AydinZ71 stated here. Question: are you considering these for use in the rear or the front, or both? They *may* lower the rear (on a 280) by 2.5", due to the tall OEM strut isolator in the rear of later-model Zs; but 1 - 1.5" is probably closer to truth for the fronts (and any early-models that use the shorter strut isolator in the rear suspension.) And if you're still running stock springs, you will probably need to engineer some sort of custom solution for the top spring hat....maybe using the OEM top spring perch and thrust washer? I honestly don't know what would work, to tell the truth. The times I have used those style camber plates, I had already converted to adjustable coilovers with 2.5" springs. Finally, realize that you will get the advantage of lowering the suspension with these camber plates, but you will have very little camber adjustment if you're still running the OEM springs (or any of the aftermarket "lowering" springs that have the same diameter of the stock springs.) The spring and top perch will interfere with the walls of the strut tower if you try to adjust the camber plates by more than a degree or so. What's the rest of your suspension setup, and what are your intended goals for the car? Folks here might be able to steer you in the right direction if we understand what you're trying to do overall.

Aydin, I think you're like me (and many others here)....once I get going with the welder, I just don't want to stop!!

I don't know how sophisticated a system you're looking for, but the universal units (available from vendors like Summit and Jegs) are very light and compact, and push an unbelievable amount of air. I have this one, and I rigged it to send half the air to the defrosters and half to the footwells. Have been using it for four years with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991102-1