jhm

One pair (two rotors) of vented front brake rotors for a 1984-1985 300ZX NA (non-turbo). Like New Condition. These are 10.81" in diameter; 20mm nominal thickness; 4 x 103mm bolt hole spacing to match the S30. Very popular upgrade for those wishing to upgrade their brakes; used with a variety of popular front brake upgrade kits. Check out the "Brake Options" thread under the FAQs to see how many different combinations are possible; and to research what other parts/pieces you will need for installation. This sale for the rotors only -- mounting hardware and bigger calipers are not included (obviously). Bendix brand....not some cheap no-name eBay brand. Like new condition -- mounted once and driven a few miles for mock-up purposes. $35 shipped anywhere in the U.S. You will not find a better price anywhere. Thanks for looking.

@AydinZ71: to answer your first question; yes, I am running the RT differential mount by itself....no lower front diff mount. Have run this setup with no known issues for several years on both my current Z and my previous Z. Several other member here have done similar installations with no issues. If going this route, it's important to use a mount that incorporates locking metal brackets internally....to prevent catastrophic failure. The PU top mount from ES that Technoversions offers meets this rqmt. I'm not pushing big power, but both cars have been set up with Hoosier RR slicks or A7s/R7s, so they obviously are withstanding repeated lateral loading. The only issue with this arrangement that I've personally observed was a twin-turbo LS with large tire drag slicks -- the inner LCA mounting points got torn up after a number of hard launches. I've reused the u-shaped brackets that secure the rearward LCA mounts, for the forward LCA inner mounts (i.e. bushing cap). Or you can use aftermarket brackets like the ones @calZ suggested.

Regarding the front diff mount for the R180....you probably already know this; but the RT-style mount is pretty much universally accepted as the best all-round solution. It can be used by itself (I've had mine in for the last 12 years, no issues), or can be used in combination with a lower differential mount (either OEM-style or aftermarket) -- typically only needed for high-power drag racing setups. It's nice to be able to get rid of the stock lower diff mount, to free up a lot of space for exhaust tubing, especially in a lowered application. The RT mounts are still available new from: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html.

Personal opinion is that 225/60 will not fit well on a 6" wheel. It's hard enough to get a decent performance tire in 14" diameter; and you're just reducing its potential performance by pinching it on a narrow rim. My two cents, FWIW. Nice-looking wheels, though...I've had similar wheels on a couple of my previous Zs.

@JMortensen, thanks much for posting. Will definitely want to spend some time digesting all this, so the amount of info and details are greatly appreciated. I've been looking at several options for an adjustable front bar, but have yet to settle on a design. There are several hollow adjustable bars made for Miatas, whose front bar has similar width and length dimensions as the S30, but has a straight center section. DP Racing offers some nice hollow sway bars, but they're a bit too pricey for me. @clarkspeed, your input is very much appreciated as well. How have you made your stock front bar adjustable? Sliders? Any pictures or fabrication details would be greatly appreciated. This is great stuff, and why I like HybridZ so much!

Maybe I'm missing something here, but can't you move the inner mounting points for the LCA to match the angle of the outer tie rods? Or are you not wanting to do that because of roll center concerns? @JMortensen, Jon, what adjustable front sway bar is that? Have been going through mental gymnastics to design an adjustable bar for the front (with little success). Did you move the frame mounting points forward of the stock mounting points? That's the only way I would think you could use a straight center-section bar, true? (Or minting bracket drop-downs, which does bad things to the end-link geometry).

WRT sourcing an LSD R180....there was a gentlemen on several of the Datsun FB pages who seemed to always have a stock of these available for sale. Haven't seen his posts in a while, but that's a good place to start. Also check out the Subaru forum pages...another good source. Here are a couple links to pages with some good tech data on the R180 internals: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 Yes, flip the flanges of each component 180 degrees relative to each other; but it's important to do this one component at a time, in order to isolate where the vibrations are originating from. No guarantees that this will work for your issue, but it's solved the issue a couple of times for me in the past. The owner of Datsunrestomods is on here, username @Dadzsun. He's got a thread going in the Vendor's section. Someday when I'm feeling rich, I'll probably spring for a pair of his axles. I really like their non-reliance on adapter plates and dozens of allen bolts that Jon M mentioned.

I think John Williams has the best price for adapter side axles...$400/pair last time I saw, on FB IIRC. And yes, cost is why I've stayed away from cv axles to date. If you decide you really want to go with CVs, check out the slick pieces that Fritz is making at Datsunrestomods.com. He produces axles that swap out 1-for-1 with stock half-shafts, and he also produces a style that's a direct bolt-in on a Subie LSD. Keep in mind that CV axles can get in the way of other components, like sway bars, depending on which style axle you go with. Regarding high-speed vibrations...try flipping the driveshaft and half-shafts 180 degrees, one unit at a time, to see if that helps.

I've been running an R180 for several years in various types of auto-x, time trials, HPDEs and lately 1/8 mi drag. Very mild SBC build with a 200-4R, with A7s or full slicks. My diff is a TORSEN LSD from an STi. No CV axles.....just the machined adapter side axles with stock half-shafts. Has been amazingly reliable (knock on wood). I've even seen people use the LSD R160s with some good success on low power/light weight applications.

A member here designed and built his own version of a rear cantilever suspension several years ago. It looked amazing, but I had the same impressions already voiced here (cost, complexity, noise, etc). Still pretty amazing piece of work though....

If you don't mind sharing details of the accident, I'd be really interested to know more about the specifics. That car looks amazingly good for having been rolled!

ArizonaZCar offers several brake kits that include 5-lug options. I don't know if Dave's machining his own hubs or repurposing another OEM hub, but might be worth looking into if the Silvermine and T3 options don't meet your needs. Good luck with it.

Sounds like you've got at least a couple sets of the correct rotors by now. 4 x 103mm (4.055") is indeed the correct hole spacing for the rotor mounting, and has nothing to do with the lug spacing for the wheel studs (4x114.3mm), as confirmed by the others. If you don't have the FSM yet, you can download it free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. Front rotor replacement is covered in the "Front Axle" chapter.

Have you seen this thread? It doesn't sound like binding has been a problem (yet) for anyone, but you could always slide an oversized "sleeve" over the bolt, between the two mounting eyes on the control arm...use simple steel tubing to make the sleeve.

Very sorry to hear about the health problems. Big props to you for pushing through all that and continuing to do the things in life you love. Hard to tell from that picture....but I'm guessing it's just a fuel pressure gauge. You shouldn't really need a fuel pressure regulator with a carb'ed system. Take a closer picture and post it, if you have the chance to do so. Mr. Gasket stuff? My personal opinion is that it's mostly junk; but if it's working for now, I'd leave it until it fails. I'd recommend sticking with major reputable companies like Holley, Edelbrock and Russell Performance when it comes time to replace components in the air and fuel system. I would recommend changing that small air cleaner at some point, if you have the room to do so. It's amazing how restrictive an inadequate air cleaner/air filter can be on the engine's performance. For repairs and modifications that you're not comfortable doing yourself, stay away from shady mechanics and repair shops (and there's a million of 'em.) Go to some car shows or "Cars & Coffee" events, to find out where local car enthusiasts take their cars to be worked on. Once find a good mechanic/repair shop, you'll never want to take your car anywhere else. Keep the questions coming....that's what this forum is for!

Possibility of head gasket issue: perform a compression test on the motor. "Smoking problem": where is it smoking from....tail pipe or engine compartment? (Edit: your videos weren't loading for me earlier; but they seem to be now....I'll go back and review now that they're working. I agree with NewZed's assessment for smoke in the engine compartment; as well as coolant sitting on top of intake manifold.) (Another) engine swap: How are your mechanic skills? If you're doing the work, it can be done affordability or expensively, depending on how wild you get with it. If it's a high-end swap like an RB, it will be expensive (quite a bit more than $3300). If you're paying someone else to do the work, it will be WAY more expensive. Goals for the car: what are they? You haven't mentioned why you bought the car or what you plan to do with it (I.e. Intended application), but that should guide all your decisions regarding mods and upgrades. Budget: unless you're Bill Gates, decide now what you want to spend on the car, and moderate your goals based on that budget. Engine swaps and performance builds will go through cash like you wouldn't believe, and a lot of people unfortunately don't learn this until they're deep into the build....and end up selling the project, half-finished and torn apart st a huge loss.

Glad you found a solution that works for you. As an FYI, I believe silicone is also a good material for vacuum hoses, and can be bought in various lengths, diameters, and colors.

I "third" it. If the shell sagged significantly with the doors removed, you'd have much bigger problems to consider. If you're worried about it, just make sure you use multiple jackstands and supports at multiple points under the car whilst doing the work.

I can certainly see that. My leather-covered 3-spoke Grant is my favorite steering wheel of all that I've tried over the years!

One pair (two springs) of coilover springs by Chassis Engineering. Bought as New Old Stock from a local shop going out of business. 7" free length; 2.5" ID, spring rate 400 lb/in. $40 shipped anywhere in the U.S., and I prefer PayPal. Thanks for looking. Springs are sold. Ad can be deleted, if so desired.

Without knowing your wheel width and offset, I think you'd just be guessing at what will and won't fit. If you're not hard-set on staying with the 14" mags, I've seen the jellybean mags in 15" diameter and they look pretty nice. Would really open up your choice of tires. Also, at the risk of stating the obvious, make sure you can run the suspension through the full range of motion if you use some sort of tire sizing tool.

Sorry, I guess I'm just not understanding your goals and objectives here. If tire fitment is your primary concern, you might benefit from a tire sizing tool. You can make your own, or buy one like this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Percy-s-01201-Wheelrite,6761.html?sku=91065475&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD_G2eLaEBmIiz4TPDevxvaftqGoBU2SRD2IHOvJ4zBBHHDml3hgp7BoCLVQQAvD_BwE Be mindful of all the variables here,...as tire size, compound and construction can affect every aspect of your driving experience. Good luck with it.

Looks like the Toyo Proxe R888 is still available, and 225/50-14 would probably be a good size for what you're looking for (as long as your wheels are at least 6" or 7" wide. Very good performance, especially at that price. And even they they're rated at 100 tw, they hold up surprisingly well and do carry "real" tread if you do any driving in the wet. IMO, the Proxes have a much meatier appearance than other tires of same size....overall fatter appearance, which may or may not be a good thing for you depending on your personal preferences. They should certainly have no problem filling up your wheel wells, I would think.

What width are your wheels? And what are your performance/handling/grip/comfort/longevity needs and goals for the tires? That will help determine correct tire and size for your application. Not a lot to choose from in 14" diameter; but Tire Rack is always a good resource to see what's available: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=14 Goodrich Radial T/As are kind of an old standby for street use. Not exactly "high performance", but they wear like iron and will likely outlive the car. And they're available with the raised white lettering. I think I had 225/60s on the front and 235/60s on the rear when I was running 14" wheels.