jhm

There's actually a few good selections in your desired 245/45-16, in a variety of tread patterns and tire compounds: Yokos, Toyo, Hoosier, Pirelli...any of these meet your needs? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=245%2F&ratio=45&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All

If you're planning to do any auto-x or track, I'd suggest "square" size your wheels and tires (i.e. same size on all 4 corners)...this will allow you to rotate all four evenly.

I agree....looks like it's coming along really nicely!! Keep those updates coming!

Has everyone experienced a whole new look for our webpage? Or is it something I'm experiencing because of my choice of web browser, etc?? I've seen this happen before when a forum changes hosts or hosting software. Can't say I'm a huge fan of this new look....but maybe it will grow on me over time. If anyone knows of a way to revert to the "classic" look, I'd love to hear from you.

Yep, you can replace those studs with shorter ones, or shorten your existing studs to the correct length (assuming that there is sufficient threaded length on those studs to do that.) I've also seen people replace the threaded studs with bolts, but that can make it a little trickier to install the diff. Your choice.

There are multiple pinion flanges for the R200; and IIRC, not all of them have the same diameter shaft. I believe yours (large round flange) may be one of those with a thicker shaft. You should be able to get the correct pinion flange pretty easily....seems like there's a lot of them floating around (but you will probably have to change the flange on your driveshaft.)

Glad to hear that it's improving. I forgot to ask if the doors are closing securely, with the new weatherstripping installed. Sometimes the door latches will need to be adjusted (either tighter or looser) to get a nice tight seal after making any changes to the weatherstripping. Adjusting the latches is a simple process....just takes a little patience, and playing with it little by little to get 'just' the right tension on the weatherstripping when the door is closed and latched.

I watched your video and I have to apologize, but I really couldn't see the problem area that you're describing. Sorry. Maybe post another video with some narration, and physically point (with your finger) to the area that's not sealing? If the rubber is cold, try heating it (to soften it) and then "coax" it into the shape necessary for a good seal. New rubber has to "learn" the desired shape, and that sometimes takes a little time. Also, IIRC, you can loosen the mounting bolts for the chrome frame to slightly adjust it in/out/up/down. I seem to recall having to do this with some of my Zs in the past. There's also a technique using tie-down straps to pull the doors together when installing new weatherstripping...helps the new rubber get seated more quickly.

Yep, DRW are high quality; and 16 lbs is pretty good for a steel wheel. My 15x8 Rotas are only a pound or two less than that. Steel is also very strong and repairable. For tires, I've always used this guy for used racing tires and never been disappointed: https://www.ebay.com/str/racetiresusdrrt

Have you seen this thread?

Very cool...thx for sharing that!

Rotors are SOLD.

You posted your original question in the "FAQs" section. I don't know if you (i.e. the author) can delete that post; but if not, an Admin will need to do so. If you want to have a normal discussion thread, just repost your original post in this sub-forum. If you're looking at HybridZ on your phone, the forum structure may not be obvious as to the different sub-forums....but it's immediately apparent if you check it out on your laptop or PC.

If you haven't already done so, I would read all the threads from people complaining about uneven (or unsatisfactory) ride height results after installing the Eibachs. Also, be mindful of the fact that the Eibachs are a progressive spring. Lots of folks (myself included) are not big fans of any progressive-rate spring. In addition to the Konis, as suggested by @JMortensen, you may want to consider Bilsteins as well. Old part number: P30-0032; new P.N. 34-184530.

One pair (two rotors) of vented front brake rotors for a 1984-1985 300ZX NA (non-turbo). Like New Condition. These are 10.81" in diameter; 20mm nominal thickness; 4 x 103mm bolt hole spacing to match the S30. Very popular upgrade for those wishing to upgrade their brakes; used with a variety of popular front brake upgrade kits. Check out the "Brake Options" thread under the FAQs to see how many different combinations are possible; and to research what other parts/pieces you will need for installation. This sale for the rotors only -- mounting hardware and bigger calipers are not included (obviously). Bendix brand....not some cheap no-name eBay brand. Like new condition -- mounted once and driven a few miles for mock-up purposes. $35 shipped anywhere in the U.S. You will not find a better price anywhere. Thanks for looking.

@AydinZ71: to answer your first question; yes, I am running the RT differential mount by itself....no lower front diff mount. Have run this setup with no known issues for several years on both my current Z and my previous Z. Several other member here have done similar installations with no issues. If going this route, it's important to use a mount that incorporates locking metal brackets internally....to prevent catastrophic failure. The PU top mount from ES that Technoversions offers meets this rqmt. I'm not pushing big power, but both cars have been set up with Hoosier RR slicks or A7s/R7s, so they obviously are withstanding repeated lateral loading. The only issue with this arrangement that I've personally observed was a twin-turbo LS with large tire drag slicks -- the inner LCA mounting points got torn up after a number of hard launches. I've reused the u-shaped brackets that secure the rearward LCA mounts, for the forward LCA inner mounts (i.e. bushing cap). Or you can use aftermarket brackets like the ones @calZ suggested.

Regarding the front diff mount for the R180....you probably already know this; but the RT-style mount is pretty much universally accepted as the best all-round solution. It can be used by itself (I've had mine in for the last 12 years, no issues), or can be used in combination with a lower differential mount (either OEM-style or aftermarket) -- typically only needed for high-power drag racing setups. It's nice to be able to get rid of the stock lower diff mount, to free up a lot of space for exhaust tubing, especially in a lowered application. The RT mounts are still available new from: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html.

Personal opinion is that 225/60 will not fit well on a 6" wheel. It's hard enough to get a decent performance tire in 14" diameter; and you're just reducing its potential performance by pinching it on a narrow rim. My two cents, FWIW. Nice-looking wheels, though...I've had similar wheels on a couple of my previous Zs.

@JMortensen, thanks much for posting. Will definitely want to spend some time digesting all this, so the amount of info and details are greatly appreciated. I've been looking at several options for an adjustable front bar, but have yet to settle on a design. There are several hollow adjustable bars made for Miatas, whose front bar has similar width and length dimensions as the S30, but has a straight center section. DP Racing offers some nice hollow sway bars, but they're a bit too pricey for me. @clarkspeed, your input is very much appreciated as well. How have you made your stock front bar adjustable? Sliders? Any pictures or fabrication details would be greatly appreciated. This is great stuff, and why I like HybridZ so much!

Maybe I'm missing something here, but can't you move the inner mounting points for the LCA to match the angle of the outer tie rods? Or are you not wanting to do that because of roll center concerns? @JMortensen, Jon, what adjustable front sway bar is that? Have been going through mental gymnastics to design an adjustable bar for the front (with little success). Did you move the frame mounting points forward of the stock mounting points? That's the only way I would think you could use a straight center-section bar, true? (Or minting bracket drop-downs, which does bad things to the end-link geometry).

WRT sourcing an LSD R180....there was a gentlemen on several of the Datsun FB pages who seemed to always have a stock of these available for sale. Haven't seen his posts in a while, but that's a good place to start. Also check out the Subaru forum pages...another good source. Here are a couple links to pages with some good tech data on the R180 internals: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 Yes, flip the flanges of each component 180 degrees relative to each other; but it's important to do this one component at a time, in order to isolate where the vibrations are originating from. No guarantees that this will work for your issue, but it's solved the issue a couple of times for me in the past. The owner of Datsunrestomods is on here, username @Dadzsun. He's got a thread going in the Vendor's section. Someday when I'm feeling rich, I'll probably spring for a pair of his axles. I really like their non-reliance on adapter plates and dozens of allen bolts that Jon M mentioned.

I think John Williams has the best price for adapter side axles...$400/pair last time I saw, on FB IIRC. And yes, cost is why I've stayed away from cv axles to date. If you decide you really want to go with CVs, check out the slick pieces that Fritz is making at Datsunrestomods.com. He produces axles that swap out 1-for-1 with stock half-shafts, and he also produces a style that's a direct bolt-in on a Subie LSD. Keep in mind that CV axles can get in the way of other components, like sway bars, depending on which style axle you go with. Regarding high-speed vibrations...try flipping the driveshaft and half-shafts 180 degrees, one unit at a time, to see if that helps.

I've been running an R180 for several years in various types of auto-x, time trials, HPDEs and lately 1/8 mi drag. Very mild SBC build with a 200-4R, with A7s or full slicks. My diff is a TORSEN LSD from an STi. No CV axles.....just the machined adapter side axles with stock half-shafts. Has been amazingly reliable (knock on wood). I've even seen people use the LSD R160s with some good success on low power/light weight applications.

A member here designed and built his own version of a rear cantilever suspension several years ago. It looked amazing, but I had the same impressions already voiced here (cost, complexity, noise, etc). Still pretty amazing piece of work though....

If you don't mind sharing details of the accident, I'd be really interested to know more about the specifics. That car looks amazingly good for having been rolled!