jhm

I have one...you want the entire strut assembly? I can PM you pics tomorrow.

PMs working ok for me (on Firefox).

Looking good, as always, Mark! Curious what parts you used for your CV axles....specifically, which CV joints and what size axle? I'm about to do the same mod on my '73. Thx, and keep the updates coming!

Ditto...same here, with IOS. Haven't been able to login mobile for roughly a week now.

These do not have a significant impact on alignment. They do not change the steering arm mounting points or geometry, and therefore do not have a significant design impact on the front end alignment. The major geometry change occurs in the location of the lower end of the strut, and therefore, the position and location of the front spindle. If you're already planning to do a front-end alignment, I would hold off until you install these first. You may want to try doing the alignment yourself....it's really not that hard, and a good skill to learn, especially if you're planning to do some different types of racing and/or different tracks. Racers are always playing with different alignment settings to optimize performance. Good luck with it.

I installed them recently, and they definitely corrected my LCA angle while giving a good bit more negative camber. Quality and fit are pretty decent. Haven't had a chance to test them at the track, but haven't detected any downside with them yet on the street.

I've seen a few guys use diamond plate for their floorboards...certainly would hold up well to wear and tear.

Summit and Jegs have a huge selection of overflow tanks in many shapes, sizes, and prices.

One pack (36 sq ft) was enough to do a good portion of the interior (floors, roof, and rear deck). I ordered a second pack to do the remaining nooks and crannies (doors, etc), and really only needed a few sheets of the second pack....still have a bunch left over that I'll probably use in my other cars.

Nope, no smell (even when brand new in the box). Haven't found any drawbacks to it yet, and I've had it in the car roughly 6 months.

I'm using a Noico product, and am reasonably happy with it. Good adhesion (even on the roof) and good sound damping qualities. Priced much better than some of the other products, and it's available in black. https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deadening-automotive-restoration-insulation/dp/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502376017&sr=8-5&keywords=noico+80+mil+sound+deadener

Hey Greg, have you seen these? Looks like they have what you're looking for. http://stores.ebay.com/wheelspacers2/DATSUN-4LUG-4X114-3MM-4X4-5-/_i.html?_fsub=1748279619&_sid=675963999&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

I have one in ok condition....it's in storage; it'll be a couple days before I can get to it for pictures. Shipping will probably not be cheap, even though I'm on east coast, just due to the large dimensions.

Ditto what 73z85.0 said!

http://www.zcarsource.com/exterior-tail-light-panel-240z-260z-280z_8_56080.html

Holy crap. Just came across this series of videos on Youtube. Scary. I honestly hope no one has ever used them for instructional purposes. What a freaking hack. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kWFnYo05yE&t=312s

Do you feel the vibration, or hear it? Or both? Under what conditions do you notice the vibration? Just cruising at highway speeds? Is it worse under load (either acceleration or braking)? A "no load" vibration indicates something out of balance (e.g. driveshaft or half-shafts). A vibration under load might be due to worn bushings in your LCAs, mustache bar or differential. One way to isolate the source of the vibe would be to have someone else drive, while you crawl around the hatch with a stethoscope.

Hey Leon, I've got a 2000 3rd gen 4Runner (with an automatic) that I occasionally use for towing my race Z (late-model 260 on an open 2-axle car trailer...similar to what you'd be towing.) As a daily driver, I love the 4Runner. I get 22 mpg on the highway, and that 3.4 liter V6 is pretty much indestructible, and the interior is quite large -- back seat is surprisingly comfortable and roomy, even for two adults. If you fold the back seats down (which I usually do), there's a TON of room for cargo -- can easily carry two complete sets of race wheels with room to spare. I bought mine 10 years ago; it has approx 190,000 mi on it; and I haven't had a single major issue with it....zero, zip, nada. As a tow vehicle, it works fine if you're mostly on flat roads. It really struggles in the hills. If you have the 5-speed, it would be better; but it would probably still struggle -- IMO, the 3400 does not have the torque and power to maintain highway speeds on any kind of major incline when towing 3000-4000 lbs. The larger base and option engines available on the 4th and 5th gen models would obviously be much better for towing applications. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other info.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it would be pretty much impossible to guess what seat may have been installed previously using the welded-in mounts. Furthermore, I would hesitate to reuse them unless you are able to absolutely ensure their integrity. A lot of folks will cobble something together when installing aftermarket seats without any real consideration to strength or safety. We have a couple of really good threads here regarding seat swaps, if you're interested. IIRC, one is a pinned thread and another one is 280-specific (due to the hump in the trans tunnel for the catalytic converter.) Sorry couldn't help more.

At least half the time, the issue is with the grounding. 45-year old grounds often do not work well. IIRC, the ground for the rear lights is in a terrible spot under the rear hatch deck and above the tank. Could easily be corroded and grounding poorly. If you're checking it, you might decide that you want to move it to a different location altogether. At the risk of asking a stupid question, have you cleaned the contacts within the bulb socket and/or replaced the bulb itself? The rear lights are exposed to a bunch of moisture and crud, and the sockets can easily become corroded over time, but they are easily cleaned out with some fine-grit sandpaper.

Not even sure if I correctly understand the issue, but what exactly is too dim? The turn signal indicator lights on your dash (i.e. inside the tach face), or the exterior turn signal lights on the front and rear of the car? If it's the former, you could disassemble the tachometer and clean all electrical connections to ensure good voltage to the indicator lights; and clean out the interior (which often gets coated with dust and grit). If it's the latter, you can do the same cleaning of electrical connections and lenses...often makes a big difference in the amount of light transmitted. Finally, you can swap out the old incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs, which can make a huge difference in brightness. LEDs in the turn signals will require an electronic, or solid-state, flasher unit, as the LED bulbs do not draw enough current to activate the old-style thermal flashers. Hope this helps.

Download the FSM for your car at xenonzcar.com and check out the Body Electrical chapter. It will have all the diagrams and schematics you are looking for.

Very cool....thx, Clarkspeed!

Ditto what they said....two thumbs up for ZTrix (you may also find some internet info on "Reaction Research", which I believe is the name John Washington used to operate under.) Personally, I think the YZ is one of the nicest looking body kits out there. Good luck with it.

JBRacing is good, and here's another one worth checking (especially for cantilever slicks): http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563.