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May have crap in the fuel lines, the filter(s), or the pump itself. Any rust or sediment that may have been in the tank could have gotten stirred up during the tow and is now plugging the fuel lines at some point. If this is the problem, the only permanent solution is to drop the tank and clean it; disconnect all lines and blow them out; and replace the filter(s) with new/clean ones. If you go this route, this is the right time to replace all the rubber fuel lines with new hose. Good luck with it.

Lovely. Be interested to see how much this sells for....it's only at $12K so far, with 2 days to go. GLWS.

Just bought a case of Valvoline VR1 today....Amazon carries it but I found some locally at the NAPA store. Royal Purple also looks to be a good choice that's available at many chain auto parts stores.

I've been doing a lot of research on this specific topic lately, and one thing that stands out in my mind is that Grumpyvette recommends ZDDPlus as a regular oil additive.

Thx for the reply, Grannyknot. And thank you also for the input on3/4" vs 1". May pick up a pair just to keep them on hand...I'll post my impressions of them if I get them.

....and right-hand drive.

Anyone know anything about these? Seem to be a bit cheaper than others. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Bump-Steer-Spacers-3-4-Thick-w-Bolts-240Z-260Z-280Z/112836474872?_trkparms=pageci%3A0e2e2b53-1b6a-11e8-b929-74dbd180e7fb|parentrq%3Ad5323e881610aa47a51b11a7ffff9831|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236

The strut brace is sold. Thx, DAT240z; and thx to others that expressed interest. r/John

DAT240Z, I have a shipping quote and tried to PM you again, to no avail. Got the same message "DAT240Z can not receive messages". If email or cellular text will work better for you, send me your contact info. Thx.

Hey DAT240z, thx for the reply. Yes, it's still available; but I would have sold it to LS6 if I hadn't heard back from you today, so I'm glad you were able to get back on the site. I'll get you a shipping quote this weekend. In the meantime here's a couple pics of it in my '73 260z, which has the same short rear struts as the 240. (The guy I bought it from had it in the rear of his '72 240z). Sorry, LS6240z....looks like it's sold; but I'll certainly let you know if anything changes. Thx very much for your interest.

Might possibly also be the ignition switch wiring (which runs alongside the steering column) or the switch itself. The harness is designed such that full amperage runs through the switch, and when connections get old and corroded, it starts to heat up and melt electrical connectors and plugs. A good solution is the clean all your plugs and connections, and insert a relay into the system so that the ignition switch is not carrying the full electrical load. If your battery is dying when the car's not running, there is a draw somewhere in the system (stereo, alarm, etc). A quick start to tracking down the draw is to pull the fuses one at a time and see which circuit is draining the battery when the ignition's shut off. If that doesn't do it, you'll have to dive deeper into the various electrical harnesses with a multimeter. Electrical gremlins are a pain.

Thx for your reply, LS6240Z. I'll give DAT240Z another day or two to reply, but will look into shipping costs for you in the meantime. Kind regards.

Sure they do, as long as the plates retain the same 3-bolt pattern as the stock struts. I have coilovers and bolt-in camber plates front and rear on my cars, and used this bar no problem on two different cars. Some weld-in plates may preclude the use of a strut tower bar like this (and most others that are commercially available), but that's up to the owner to decide. I suppose the bar's mounting plates could be re-drilled to be compatible with other suspension set-ups; but again, that's up to the owner.

Tried PM'ing you, but got a pop-up notice that said you can't receive messages. Weird. Maybe something going on with the website right now? Anyway, I have this rear strut bar. Ran it in the rear of my '73 260, which has the same struts/strut towers as the 240. The end plates can also be run on the front strut towers, with a different cross bar. How about $55 plus shipping? Thanks. r/John

Sounds like you found one; but in case you run into any issues, this one just came up on FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/datsun240zclassifieds/?multi_permalinks=187998928471919&notif_id=1518466240307427&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif

Looks nice, from what I could see. Tried diving into it, but got a notice that it's briefly down for maintenance.

Ditto. Sure this has been an unbelievably frustrating experience for you; but super glad to hear it finally worked out!! I know I've learned a lot just from this thread.

Glad I could help! Pleasure doing business with you.

Since you seem to be having so much fun with your front lights, here's a really slick little product that allows your front side marker lights to double as turn signal lights....the "DRL-1" module from Daniel Stern Lighting. There are multiple ways to achieve this, but this was the easiest method I could find if you want to run LED bulbs in all your running lights. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html

Hey all, I've noticed that posts made recently are disappearing (i.e. no longer visible) and the PM system doesn't seem to be working correctly -- the "Message" field, which is a required field, can not be populated; and therefore messages can not be generated and sent. Anyone else having these issues?

Glad you got the turn signals working ok. If I recall correctly, factory wiring for the headlights is as follows: 12V is supplied to both beams at all times, and the hi/low switch determines which circuit is grounded. i.e. If High beam is selected, both the high and low beams are grounded, and therefore powered. If the Low beam is selected, only the Low beam circuit is grounded. Once you start modifying the circuits with relays, etc; those mods need to be consistent with the original design in order for everything to work as designed. It sounds like a previous owner had integrated relays for each beam on each side of your car? And therefore, four relays total to operate the headlights? If you've got a multimeter, use that to test your theory on how the relays should be connected....it's less drain on the system and a safer way to troubleshoot. Electrical gremlins can be such a pain, but it sounds like you're working through it ok...."eating the elephant one bite at a time".

The answer to your question is "Yes, the hazard switch could definitely be part of the problem." It is, unfortunately, an integral part of the turn signal circuit. Fortunately, it can be disassembled and cleaned/checked for functionality. It it sounds as though you found a second turn signal switch, and it functions correctly? So you should be good to go wrt that issue, correct? And now you're just trying to sort out the hazards?

PM'ed you.

Assuming that you have an S30 (i.e. 240, 260, 280z)? Sounds like there might be a couple of issues going on. For starters, anytime someone has issues with the lights, first thing to check is make sure you have good grounds. There are a couple of electrical grounds for the taillights, so make sure you check them all....remove the screws, clean the metal connector, inspect for good connection with the wire, and clean the metal that it's connected to. A little sandpaper and cleaning solvent is all you need. Next, remove your turn signal switch/combination switch and clean it as necessary. Usually best to disassemble it to give it a proper cleaning. While you're at it, check that the electrical plugs connecting to the switches all have good strong, clean connections. Most of these are inside, or adjacent to, the steering column clamshell cover. Finally, check that you have good flashers for the signals....they are mounted under the dash, near your left knee. If you don't already have the FSM for your year and model, download it here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html.