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Everything posted by jhm
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Sounds like you found one; but in case you run into any issues, this one just came up on FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/datsun240zclassifieds/?multi_permalinks=187998928471919¬if_id=1518466240307427¬if_t=group_activity&ref=notif
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Looks nice, from what I could see. Tried diving into it, but got a notice that it's briefly down for maintenance.
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Ditto. Sure this has been an unbelievably frustrating experience for you; but super glad to hear it finally worked out!! I know I've learned a lot just from this thread.
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Glad I could help! Pleasure doing business with you.
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Since you seem to be having so much fun with your front lights, here's a really slick little product that allows your front side marker lights to double as turn signal lights....the "DRL-1" module from Daniel Stern Lighting. There are multiple ways to achieve this, but this was the easiest method I could find if you want to run LED bulbs in all your running lights. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html
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Hey all, I've noticed that posts made recently are disappearing (i.e. no longer visible) and the PM system doesn't seem to be working correctly -- the "Message" field, which is a required field, can not be populated; and therefore messages can not be generated and sent. Anyone else having these issues?
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Glad you got the turn signals working ok. If I recall correctly, factory wiring for the headlights is as follows: 12V is supplied to both beams at all times, and the hi/low switch determines which circuit is grounded. i.e. If High beam is selected, both the high and low beams are grounded, and therefore powered. If the Low beam is selected, only the Low beam circuit is grounded. Once you start modifying the circuits with relays, etc; those mods need to be consistent with the original design in order for everything to work as designed. It sounds like a previous owner had integrated relays for each beam on each side of your car? And therefore, four relays total to operate the headlights? If you've got a multimeter, use that to test your theory on how the relays should be connected....it's less drain on the system and a safer way to troubleshoot. Electrical gremlins can be such a pain, but it sounds like you're working through it ok...."eating the elephant one bite at a time".
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The answer to your question is "Yes, the hazard switch could definitely be part of the problem." It is, unfortunately, an integral part of the turn signal circuit. Fortunately, it can be disassembled and cleaned/checked for functionality. It it sounds as though you found a second turn signal switch, and it functions correctly? So you should be good to go wrt that issue, correct? And now you're just trying to sort out the hazards?
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PM'ed you.
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Assuming that you have an S30 (i.e. 240, 260, 280z)? Sounds like there might be a couple of issues going on. For starters, anytime someone has issues with the lights, first thing to check is make sure you have good grounds. There are a couple of electrical grounds for the taillights, so make sure you check them all....remove the screws, clean the metal connector, inspect for good connection with the wire, and clean the metal that it's connected to. A little sandpaper and cleaning solvent is all you need. Next, remove your turn signal switch/combination switch and clean it as necessary. Usually best to disassemble it to give it a proper cleaning. While you're at it, check that the electrical plugs connecting to the switches all have good strong, clean connections. Most of these are inside, or adjacent to, the steering column clamshell cover. Finally, check that you have good flashers for the signals....they are mounted under the dash, near your left knee. If you don't already have the FSM for your year and model, download it here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html.
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Saw one on one of the Z car FB pages recently. Looked in nice shape, and was not cheap. I think maybe Minh Vu had it up for sale?
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From the album: Race build 2.0
Stripped and ready to go under the knife (i.e. cutting wheel, grinder, welder, engine hoist, etc). -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Interior mostly finished. Autopower rollbar, Corbeau seat with G-Force 5-point harness. Full carpet, glass, dash, etc. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Interior mostly finished. Autopower rollbar, Corbeau seat with G-Force 5-point harness. Full carpet, glass, dash, etc. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Lots of rust underneath when I first brought her home. First order of business: new floor pans, frame rails, and chassis bracing. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Lots of rust underneath when I first brought her home. First order of business: new floor pans, frame rails, and chassis bracing. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Lots of rust underneath when I first brought her home. First order of business: new floor pans, frame rails, and chassis bracing. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Lots of rust underneath when I first brought her home. First order of business: new floor pans, frame rails, and chassis bracing. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Early-model 260Z (production 11/73) with warmed-over SBC. Custom front lip and adjustable rear spoiler. Custom front and rear bumpers and bumper mounts. Retro-Spec flares. Rota Kyusha 15x8 with Hankook RS-4 245/40-15 rubber (Hoosier 275/35-15 race rubber). Thanks for looking. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Early-model 260Z (production 11/73) with warmed-over SBC. Custom front lip and adjustable rear spoiler. Custom front and rear bumpers and bumper mounts. Retro-Spec flares. Rota Kyusha 15x8 with Hankook RS-4 245/40-15 rubber (Hoosier 275/35-15 race rubber). Thanks for looking. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Early-model 260Z (production 11/73) with warmed-over SBC. Custom front lip and adjustable rear spoiler. Custom front and rear bumpers and bumper mounts. Retro-Spec flares. Rota Kyusha 15x8 with Hankook RS-4 245/40-15 rubber (Hoosier 275/35-15 race rubber). Thanks for looking. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Early-model 260Z (production 11/73) with warmed-over SBC. Custom front lip and adjustable rear spoiler. Custom front and rear bumpers and bumper mounts. Retro-Spec flares. Rota Kyusha 15x8 with Hankook RS-4 245/40-15 rubber (Hoosier 275/35-15 race rubber). Thanks for looking. -
From the album: Race build 2.0
Early-model 260Z (production 11/73) with warmed-over SBC. Custom front lip and adjustable rear spoiler. Custom front and rear bumpers and bumper mounts. Retro-Spec flares. Rota Kyusha 15x8 with Hankook RS-4 245/40-15 rubber (Hoosier 275/35-15 race rubber). Thanks for looking.