jhm

New price....$50 plus shipping.

I think he's got 280 hubs now; but needs the 240 hubs to go with his struts and a Wilwood brake kit he's installing. The 240 hubs had a different back spacing for the disc than later years.

Juan, sorry I couldn't help you out with this. I did just see an ad on ZCAR.com about a guy parting out a '72 240....he might have those hubs you need: http://www.zcar.com/forum/19-sale-parts-accessories/412377-parting-out-1972-240z-auto.html.

Wow...great parts! Sorry I hadn't noticed this thread previously, but will definitely keep it in mind for the future.

New Year's price drop -- $70 plus shipping.

What nullbound said!!

You do know that you won't be able to get much camber adjustment from the KMACs, right? The OEM spring top hats and insulators are the big LIMFAC for camber adjustment with stock struts. (You should still be able to adjust caster, if that's what you're going for.) Just wanted to make sure you didn't put a lot of effort into a solution that wasn't going to give you the results you desire.

I've got one; may have the clips as well. I'll take a look when I get home later today and send you pictures, if that's ok.

Curious if anyone else has had this problem?

One thing that caught my eye is the angle of your front control arms...they're already past level, which you normally only see in lowered cars. This is detrimental, if you desire negative camber in your suspension geometry, and the usual fixes include relocating the control arm mounting point and/or bump steer spacers. I didn't see anything about what size wheels and tires you're running. Did you already provide that info? My apologies if you did and I missed it.

Nice original driveshaft, pulled from a non-running early-model 260Z (prod. 11/73) with 4-speed transmission and R180 w/ curved mustache bar. Should fit other years with that drivetrain configuration, but can't guarantee that. U-joints still seem tight; no slop. Shaft and splines clean and undamaged. $80 plus shipping. Thx for looking.

Nice -- thx! Bonus that they're an easy install/adaptation.

Sorry, don't know about a 1997 Bonneville specifically; but I can suggest that it's never a good idea to disconnect the battery from a running vehicle. The battery and alternator work as a system to provide stable voltage and amperage to the vehicle's electrical system, and removing the battery can easily disrupt the system's stability, resulting in damage to the electrical system (particularly, the vehicle's more delicate electronics). I don't mean to sound preachy, but this forum is designed for the discussion of Datsun/Nissan Z cars, although I'm sure someone would speak up if they had specific knowledge useful to you...everyone here is a very helpful bunch. I'm just suggesting that you might find more expertise and experience for your specific issue on a Pontiac or GM forum? A quick google search yielded these top two results: www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum, and https://pontiacforum.com/pontiac. Good luck with it.

Very nice on the 350Z seats....curious how much they weigh? They look fairly lightweight, but with nice side bolsters and bracing.

Trying to leave Feedback for members, and the "Security Check" keeps blocking me....telling me that I'm not passing the security check. I'm filling in all the required information blocks, but can not figure out what I'm doing wrong. Tried searching the site to see if this had been addressed previously, and did not see any discussions on this specific topic. Thank you for any assistance you can offer.

Wow, Conrad280zx sure is a mindless moron. Is that how kids speak these days??

Any of the gents mentioned above would do a great job, and I applaud anyone that's willing to put the time and effort into this forum. If they're interested, I think Miles and New Zed would also be great candidates for Moderator positions. My two cents...

Same here today (29 Nov), but haven't had any problems in the last couple weeks. Weird. P.S. It's an MSA Type 3 airdam, right?

I can recall there were some batches a year or two ago that were not properly hear-treated; which is probably what cause that negative review you saw on eBay. Have not heard anything bad about them since. $375 is a great price. I would go for it.

Lots of options available: Techno Toy Tuning (T3), Arizona Z Car, and Ground Control (GC) are some of the more popular coilover conversions; and all work well for most racing applications. If you haven't done so yet, check out the "Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis" section in the FAQs. TONS of great info there. You can also fab your own coilovers if you want a more custom setup, which is what I did: universal sleeves, Swift springs, and Bilstein shocks. Good thing you have welding and fabrication skills....you're going to need them with these old cars! Good luck with whatever route you choose.

Just saw this, and have to say Joel's passing is another big loss to the Z community and everyone that knew him. He was a big help to me during my recent build; and I knew he was having some health issues, but had no idea how serious. Truly an all-round nice guy. Sometimes life really sucks. RIP buddy, and Blue Skies.

P.N. BZ 3038

I have a set of Illuminas that were used in the rear struts of my 1973 260 for about a year. It's an early-model 260, so it has the same rear strut tubes as the 240Z, so these shocks have the correct spacers for 240 rear. As you know, you can pull the spacer off and use the same shock in the front struts. I'm the second owner on these shocks, so I can't tell you how old they are; but they seem to still have decent damping. No physical damage to the shock bodies other than typical scratches and wear marks from mounting. The adjuster hardware is all in good condition and seems to functioning correctly. How about $75 plus shipping for the pair?