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Actually, Brakekleen is used very commonly to clean bad stains on the interior. I've personally used it on carpets and door panels many times without any problem. For a seat, you obviously wouldn't blast it so much that it soaks through to the foam....you use it on a rag and blot it, like you would with any cleaning product. Good luck with it.

Brakekleen works well for those kinds of spills and stains.

Sounds like a 15" or 16" wheel might be the best all-round solution; in either and 8" or 9" width. There's a decent selection of tires in those sizes (more in 16 than 15) for cheaper prices than you'll find for larger diameter wheels. If you're wanting new wheels at budget prices, check out XXR (or even Rota). Otherwise, keep an eye on the used ads for used wheels. Old Toyotas have the same lug size as S30's, so watch the 4AG forums, as well as Datsun forums..

Jon stole the words right out of my mouth....the molded-in headlight covers are really nice. Kudos for bringing an old classic back to life.

Your questions regarding wheel and tire size really need to be prefaced with your intended application. Racing? What style of racing? A setup that works well for auto-x may be terrible on a road course. Off the top of my head, most people will probably steer you to a 16" wheel; but that may or may not be the best setup for your particular needs. And like in all aspects of life, your budget will likely be the biggest constraint, so you'll need to decide how much you plan to spend. Websites like TireRack.com are a good tool for determining what size and quality of tires are available.

I guess the obvious question is do you have 12v and good ground at the bulb socket? If yes, the bulb is probably bad. If no, need to troubleshoot that circuit. If you haven't already done so, removing the heater controls center panel makes it easier to work behind the tach.

See figures AC-61 and AC-64 in the attached. AC.pdf

There's actually a wide range of sizes/widths for "ZG wide flares", depending on the specific manufacturer. Which specific flares are you considering? You will also need to specify tire brand and size that you are considering, as well. That makes a huge difference in fitment. Have you had a chance to review this thread yet?

Yes, it sounds like that one is definitely gone if it compresses and stays compressed. From what I've seen, Tokicos produced in the last couple of years have been hit or miss quality. Bilsteins are a good affordable alternative if you don't feel like springing for Konis.

Wow, great info! Sticky-worthy?

That is correct. Don't know what year your car is, but it can be rewired if you so desire. Do you want the turn signals to operate when the ignition is not on?

Nice price. Didn't know AZC was offering those pieces....may have to look into it. Thx.

Nice parts list! 👍 Dropping some serious change on this build. You may want to consider some adjustable tie rod ends, while you're at it....there's a couple vendors out there; I've got T3's, and am pretty happy with the quality. Apex Engineering just released some, but I don't know anyone that's used them yet.

Couldn't agree more with the advice above. Have seen several members here, and on other forums, recently tackle electrical issues with a random, unsystematic approach....replacing components at random without any deliberate analysis or troubleshooting. Just leads to frustration and lots of time/money spent on needless replacements. BTW, if you determine that your issues are indeed caused by the gauge lamp dimmer rheostat, and if you don't care about the functionality of the rheostat, it can be removed from the system. It's just a variable resistor. I always prefer my gauges on full bright, so I removed the rheostat and jumped the two leads together....giving full current to the gauge lamps whenever switched on. Good luck with it.

Looks like a really nice old 240. You are already WAY ahead where most of us usually are when starting with a newly-acquired Z. Have fun with it, and welcome to HybridZ.

Congrats on your find and good luck with the resto-build. Looking forward to seeing the progress!

Current flows to the wiper motor through the wiper relay on the relay panel in the passenger footwell. Relay could be bad, but I would test it before replacing. The wiper motor could also be bad. Try applying 12v directly to the motor to test. The wiper mechanism may also be frozen, which would prevent the wipers from working, but they can be cleaned up and lubed pretty easily. Yes, the switch for the rear defroster is typically located in the center console, under the radio.

Were you able to download all the FSM docs you needed? The wiper wiring runs from the combo switch, through the dash harness, to the wiper relay in the passenger footwell....it should not have any connections in the area of the radio. There is a plug on the firewall inside the engine compartment which can become loose and/or corroded, causing the wipers to fail. Hope this helps.

SJ, that's a bummer....sorry to hear that it didn't work for you. I went back and checked my flasher unit, and I'm pretty sure it's the same one you bought from Amazon. It's been working fine for almost a year now. Weird. The good news is that these are obviously becoming more popular, cheaper, and more readily available. Maybe check one out like Miles is running. Sorry again the unit from Amazon didn't work for you.

Happy to help. WRT the unidentified cut wires, I would try testing them for continuity between the cut ends and the same-colored pin connectors at the big junction block in the passenger footwell. Once you've found the correct wire/pin location on the junction block, you can use the FSM data to nail down the what the cut wire was for. Sounds tedious, but really shouldn't take long once you get going.

Yeah, those "complete vehicle" schematics have their uses sometimes; but they can also be a nightmare. Here's the only 240 body electrical FSM I have; it's for a '73. May help you at least partially. That 3-pronged female plug may be for power antenna (see page 4 on the attached). Have you checked http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html? This is the best source for Z car electrical schematics online that I know of. Download EVERYTHING you might ever need....the website comes and goes over time; and you never know when it might disappear completely. Good luck with it. BE Body Electrical.pdf

I must say it really is impressive to see your level of commitment, patience and attention to detail on this restoration -- very impressed with your metal work and fab skills. Kudos for bringing this old girl back to life!!

Seattlejester, which electronic flashers were you using, just out of curiosity? I have not observed the specific issues you were experiencing, so I'm wondering if the choice of flasher was causing the problem.

If no one else chimes in, I'll take s look at my documentation tomorrow. My recollection is that blues wires in the dash are often associated with the heating and cooling systems. Those leads on the steering column appear to be factory original, so the FSM should show you exactly what they're connected to.

SCCA and NASA are two of the main sanctioning bodies in the U.S.; but there can often be local clubs and organizations that run their own events outside of these two. Consider running some HPDE, as well as autox. SCCAForums and NASAForums are good sources of event info across the country, as is MotorsportsReg.com. If you are more interested in maximizing your car's performance (with the lowest times) than placing within a particular class, you may find that XP is most suited to your goals. It permits just about any and all modifications, for all intents and purposes. The penalty you pay is a stiffer PAX rating.