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Speedhut. Scroll down to May 8, 2015 to see this member's method for installing: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121732-cx-racing-kit-ly6-tr6060-build/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1143496.

From your video and written description of the noise, it's rhythmic, and only on the backside of the throttle....is that correct? Loose or worn half-shafts or driveshaft could cause noise like that. Check all your u-joints and nuts/bolts for looseness. Also check your differential mounting points. If you can feel it in the floorboards, that would seem to indicate driveshaft vs half-shafts, but not definitively. Possibly wheel bearings also, but usually not during straight-line driving, and I don't think one would normally feel the movement in the floorboards. Good luck with it.

Good on ya'. A lot of folks will measure their voltage at the battery, but that doesn't necessarily mean your starter and/or distributor is getting that full voltage. The electrical systems on these old cars suck. Never miss an opportunity to clean your connections and grounds, and replace the old wiring with new, thicker-gauge wire.

Welcome to HybridZ and congrats on your find. If the car truly has minimal rust, $8K is a pretty good price....especially in the midwest. If your block is from a truck engine, that's actually a good thing....many of those '70's-era SBC truck engines were fitted with 4-bolt mains. Pretty indestructible for most applications. The Pantera hatch is pretty rare these days, and quite desirable in some circles. If you decide you don't want to keep it, you could certainly sell it for a pretty penny. The PU bushings will help immensely. In addition to the mustache bar bushings going bad, the bushings on the inner mounts of your rear lower control arms are often disintegrated, which gives similar symptoms to what you're experiencing. If you ordered an entire bushing kit, please take note that it is recommended you NOT use PU bushings on the front tension control rods. The OEM rubber bushings are intended to flex in the frame mount, and PU bushings can overstress the mount and cause fractures/breaks in the metal and/or welds. Don't waste a single opportunity to clean your electrical connections and grounds. The S30's had some sketchy engineering on their electrical systems, and 45 years of sitting around hasn't improved the situation. There are kits available to integrate modern relays into your parking lights and headlights, or you can design your own mod....either way, it's a big improvement on the factory design. Good luck with it and don't hesitate to ask questions. This is probably the best forum on the website for high-performance Z cars.

JoseMoon, you do realize that you're replying to a 7-year old post, don't you? Best bet for promotional and memorabilia these days might be eBay, or even Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DATSUN-Nissan-Vintage-Patch-Embroidered/dp/B00LURDVG2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VCE7PYPBXBFXE0M5GFC9.

Gotcha. I saw some Tokico red springs on FB -- they may still be available. Here's a link: https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=tokico red springs. If the link doesn't work, they were posted by William Fritts on "240Z 260Z 280Z lovers". I've personally not used the Vogtland's yet, but everyone I know that has them has favorable comments. Can't beat the price. BC now offers Swift springs, so that may change your mind on them. I understand your wanting to stay away from Stance.

Actually, I just removed my dash pad. Probably 20'ish screws total, but no glue/bonding to the metal frame. This was from a '74 260z, so other years may have different attachment methods. To the original poster, you could remove the pad without de-installing the dash, but re-installing the new pad would be next to impossible. Pull the dash from the car and you'll have a much easier time of the whole process.

I've been using the stock gauges with my V8 swap for several years, and they work fine, if you don't feel like springing for new aftermarket gauges. I've replaced the stock gauge bulbs with LED, which are brighter and draw less amperage. You can also switch your gauges to a white face with red needles for better visibility with a kit like this: https://www.datsun-garage.com/shop/parts/white-gauge-face-kit-1970-78-240z-260z-280z/.

Welcome to the forum, and kudos to you for your willingness to take on a 45 year old car as your first! Can't disagree with anything posted by the others, but your choice really comes down to what you want from this purchase. If you want something that you can drive sometime in the near future and work on little by little, the first car is probably your best choice. If you really don't care about having a running/driving Z anytime in the near future, but really enjoy mechanical work and piddling away for hours on end in the garage, then the bigger project car might be more fun for you. Our motto here is "there is no best". What works wonderfully for someone may be a terrible solution for someone else. Decide what you really want out of this first car purchase, and proceed from there. Either way, you'll learn a bunch and hopefully really enjoy being a Z-car owner.

You may want to expand your search to get more results. I honestly haven't seen Koni springs available for quite a while, and I've never seen a Koni "coilover set" for the Z....are you sure that's what you're looking for? Koni obviously makes nice shocks (i.e. strut inserts) for both stock and stiffer spring rates, and those can be readily found from a variety of sources. Unfortunately, it's not common to find these used (at least the Yellows)....once people get a set, they tend to keep them. Several popular coilover kits available these days for S30's, including BC Racing and TechnoToyTuning, among others. You can also part together your own coilovers, using generic sleeves and springs and shocks of your own choosing. Finally, if you're just looking to lower your car and get a little more suspension performance without the expense and time of coilovers, check out Vogtland/Stagg springs and shocks. Eibach also makes lowering springs for the stock struts, as well as Tokico (if you can find a set). Hope this helps.

Yes, the JTR book would answer most, if not all, your questions. For example, it explains how to rewire your factory tach to be compatible with the V8. JTR also sells an adapter that allows you to install the temp gauge sensor into the SBC intake manifold. Check out their website for all the parts they offer. You can get a speedo cable reducer to correct your speedo readings. PATC carries a large selection of adapters. Voltmeter and fuel gauges: self-explanatory.

May have crap in the fuel lines, the filter(s), or the pump itself. Any rust or sediment that may have been in the tank could have gotten stirred up during the tow and is now plugging the fuel lines at some point. If this is the problem, the only permanent solution is to drop the tank and clean it; disconnect all lines and blow them out; and replace the filter(s) with new/clean ones. If you go this route, this is the right time to replace all the rubber fuel lines with new hose. Good luck with it.

Lovely. Be interested to see how much this sells for....it's only at $12K so far, with 2 days to go. GLWS.

Just bought a case of Valvoline VR1 today....Amazon carries it but I found some locally at the NAPA store. Royal Purple also looks to be a good choice that's available at many chain auto parts stores.

I've been doing a lot of research on this specific topic lately, and one thing that stands out in my mind is that Grumpyvette recommends ZDDPlus as a regular oil additive.

Thx for the reply, Grannyknot. And thank you also for the input on3/4" vs 1". May pick up a pair just to keep them on hand...I'll post my impressions of them if I get them.

....and right-hand drive.

Anyone know anything about these? Seem to be a bit cheaper than others. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Bump-Steer-Spacers-3-4-Thick-w-Bolts-240Z-260Z-280Z/112836474872?_trkparms=pageci%3A0e2e2b53-1b6a-11e8-b929-74dbd180e7fb|parentrq%3Ad5323e881610aa47a51b11a7ffff9831|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236

The strut brace is sold. Thx, DAT240z; and thx to others that expressed interest. r/John

DAT240Z, I have a shipping quote and tried to PM you again, to no avail. Got the same message "DAT240Z can not receive messages". If email or cellular text will work better for you, send me your contact info. Thx.

Hey DAT240z, thx for the reply. Yes, it's still available; but I would have sold it to LS6 if I hadn't heard back from you today, so I'm glad you were able to get back on the site. I'll get you a shipping quote this weekend. In the meantime here's a couple pics of it in my '73 260z, which has the same short rear struts as the 240. (The guy I bought it from had it in the rear of his '72 240z). Sorry, LS6240z....looks like it's sold; but I'll certainly let you know if anything changes. Thx very much for your interest.

Might possibly also be the ignition switch wiring (which runs alongside the steering column) or the switch itself. The harness is designed such that full amperage runs through the switch, and when connections get old and corroded, it starts to heat up and melt electrical connectors and plugs. A good solution is the clean all your plugs and connections, and insert a relay into the system so that the ignition switch is not carrying the full electrical load. If your battery is dying when the car's not running, there is a draw somewhere in the system (stereo, alarm, etc). A quick start to tracking down the draw is to pull the fuses one at a time and see which circuit is draining the battery when the ignition's shut off. If that doesn't do it, you'll have to dive deeper into the various electrical harnesses with a multimeter. Electrical gremlins are a pain.

Thx for your reply, LS6240Z. I'll give DAT240Z another day or two to reply, but will look into shipping costs for you in the meantime. Kind regards.

Sure they do, as long as the plates retain the same 3-bolt pattern as the stock struts. I have coilovers and bolt-in camber plates front and rear on my cars, and used this bar no problem on two different cars. Some weld-in plates may preclude the use of a strut tower bar like this (and most others that are commercially available), but that's up to the owner to decide. I suppose the bar's mounting plates could be re-drilled to be compatible with other suspension set-ups; but again, that's up to the owner.

Tried PM'ing you, but got a pop-up notice that said you can't receive messages. Weird. Maybe something going on with the website right now? Anyway, I have this rear strut bar. Ran it in the rear of my '73 260, which has the same struts/strut towers as the 240. The end plates can also be run on the front strut towers, with a different cross bar. How about $55 plus shipping? Thanks. r/John