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Hey Amar, thx for the heads-up. We’ve seen similar scams and phishing here, too (unfortunately). Try to report them to the Admins when you see them. Cheers, buddy!

Which LSD is it? STi diffs came with a couple different kinds. And just FYI...it’s completely normal for them to have a fair amount of play, even when “new’ish”. I’ve had that same setup for several years with my nicely built SBC (mine’s a helical center section.)

@AydinZ71, et al....I just checked and it appears the listing is still active. I'll copy/paste the ad info below, in case others are having difficulty viewing the ad. (One may have to belong to the FB page "Datsuns for sale!" in order to view the ad.) No argument at all with all the comments about usefulness of social media for tech info sharing. I'm still convinced that FB is only useful for sharing funny dog videos. HBZ and ClassicZCars are really the only online tech boards I regularly rely on. ---------------------------------------------------------- Seller: Eli Keep-barnes FB page: "Datsuns for sale!" 1971 Nissan 240z $5,500 Listed 15 weeks ago in Copperas Cove, TX About This Vehicle Driven 12,000 miles Automatic transmission Exterior color: Black Seller's Description 1971 Datsun 240z · Coupe · Driven miles unknown Selling my 1971 240z wide body started a project but decided to go a different route. It’s a roller does not run completely stripped on the inside but still has a bunch of parts, engine, transmission, radiator, complete G-nose front end, spoiler, dash, if your interested DM me PRICE IS FIRM NO TRADES See less Copperas Cove, TX Location is approximate

Saw this on FB marketplace and had to share....looks like a heckuva' deal from the pictures provided. The purchase price isn't much more than the cost of a g-nose kit alone. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1091472531719529/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Agree that it's not an ideal solution; and yes, definitely use grade 8 or better hardware. You can also choose your mounting bolts to ensure maximum length of the unthreaded shank, which will minimize the length of the threaded portion....just make sure you carefully measure the total length of the spacer + caliper mounting tab. And ensure that the hole in your spacer closely matches the OD of your bolt's unthreaded shank. This should give you overall strongest mounting solution. Other vendors offer big brake mounting brackets which have been machined in two planes to overcome the offset issue you're dealing with. Attached photo from T3 is an example of what I'm talking about. Silvermine Motors used to offer individual big brake kit components for sale....if they're still producing those brackets, that's another option you could consider if your current solution doesn't work out. The owner, Edan, is pretty responsive to technical questions IME. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts Don't give up...this kit can definitely be made to operate correctly and safely!

Hey all, This question is mainly directed at the Site Admins, but open to anyone that may be able to help. Seems like there's a preset daily limit on the number of "Reactions" that a user can apply to other users' posts -- and that limit seems to be one (1) per day. I'm referring to the small heart-shaped icon in the lower right of a post, which allows other users to click a "Reaction", such as "Like", "Thanks", "Confused", etc, etc. Am I the only one that's experiencing this daily limitation on Reactions? Has anyone else noticed this? I can't understand why there would be such any limit at all, much less such a constraining limit as once/day. If this is something easily fixable, maybe one of our Admins (or Moderators, if they have that capability) could look into changing it in the internal workings of the website structure? Thanks in advance. Vr

@Ironhead, I’m glad you chimed in, because I did a similar thing with my bar. Mine’s bolted in, and I wanted to retain the ability to remove it when necessary. I fabricated some bolt-in brackets which utilized those mounting points on the roof support and two beefy 1.75” tube clamps. Provides two additional mounting points for the bar and the extra chassis stiffening Jon and Clark recommended. BTW, love your car...beautiful build!

Thx for taking the time to continue this important discussion, Clark! At the risk of publicly making a fool of myself, I'll go first. I was thinking that it would be useful to talk about how much great data can be collected & recorded with just simple hand tools, vs sophisticated data loggers, video devices and smart phone apps. Attached is photo of roughly $60 worth of simple tools readily available from multiple vendors (including your local hardware store). As @clarkspeed mentioned in a previous thread, there’s no limit to amount of data one can easily collect & record at each and every track session to help improve your driving performance (e.g. lap times, driving smoothness, capability of the car, etc). Here are just a few of the data parameters that I have found useful, FWIW: Suspension setup. This is a BIG system, with LOTS of variable parameters that can be measured and tuned to achieve your best performance. This can also vary widely – no single setup will rarely work optimally at every type of event (auto-x vs road course vs straight-line vs oval track, rough surface vs smooth surface, variable weather conditions, etc, etc). Camber (front and rear, left and right), caster, front-end toe, ride height (front and rear, left and right) can all be measured with simple tape measure and angle finder. A cheap, accurate digital angle finder is $20. A tape measure and some ordinary string can be used to accurately measure your front-end toe; and after doing it a couple times, it becomes second nature to quickly and accurately measure and adjust your toe settings. Tire pressures and temps. ALWAYS measure tire pressures, hot and cold; to determine what pressures work best for any given surface and suspension setup. Equal pressures on all four tires is not necessarily the best solution….you can vary front vs rear pressures and right vs left pressures to achieve different handling characteristics. When measuring tire temps, use a probe-style pyrometer vs surface temp IR gun. The IR gun can only measure surface temps on a tire, which doesn’t give an accurate indication of a tire’s internal temperature, which is what’s really important. Additionally, the tire’s surface temperature can change significantly from the time you exit the track to when you actually take the measurement, vs the internal temp remains quite consistent for some time after exiting the track. A cheap, accurate pyrometer and tire probe costs $20 and a good tire pressure gauge is $10-$20. An IR gun DOES have many uses, and can be had for $20. It can measure track surface temperature, which has a huge effect on tire performance (especially short-duration events, like dragracing, top-speed comps, auto-x or time trials). IR guns can also be used to measure brake temps, differential temperatures, header temps (including individual header tubes) and many other useful mechanical parameters on your car. It can verify that your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are operating correctly and accurately. Ambient weather condition will also have an effect on the car’s performance; so be sure to record those, as well. Ambient temperature, sunny vs cloudy, altitude density and precipitation are just a few of the many weather parameters that can factor in to affect your car’s performance, and these parameters are all readily available with just about any good weather app or website. Sorry for the long-winded, and rambling, response. These are just a few examples of the data that can be easily and cheaply measured & recorded; and I’m sure that my feeble-minded reply is missing a whole bunch of stuff….others will chime in, I’m sure. This is more just to get the discussion going. I look forward to the ensuing discussion and sharing of information!!

Ditto for me. I guess I haven’t been paying close attention to all the clues for spammers and bots, but I do try to report the obvious spammers & phishers when I see them. Happy to act in some limited “Admin” capacity if it helps lighten the load on our Moderators.

What car/year/model/version???

@grretc may be able to help, if he’s still active here. IIRC, he sells new and reconditioned dashes and consoles.

Sorry, can't help you with your immediate question....but is the clearance so tight that you can't jam anything (e.g. high-density padding) between the bar and the roof?

If you’re planning to do some auto-x and track days, a square setup will be more economical in the long run...allowing maximum ability to rotate tires front-rear-left-right. This is particularly important if you choose a softer compound tire. Wheel spacers and spacer-adapters can give you flexibility to adjust track width, as necessary. The other option that many folks use is one set of wheels for street use and one, or more, set(s) for track use. (My wife tells me that I’m limited to no more than four sets of wheels & tires.)

That’s unfortunate. Sorry you’re having such a problem with them; but your update is much appreciated. Several good vendors have run into business difficulties (for a multitude of reasons), and many of them just never recover. Thx for keeping the community updated, and good luck whichever way it turns out for you.

While this has turned into an interesting discussion (largely focused on race-tire/wheel options), I’m thinking it has probably strayed from the OP’s intent. @Wheeliegeezer, have you considered trying a wheel mock-up tool to determine your optimum diameter/width/offset?

@inis, unless you’re planning on making this a build thread, you want want to post your question(s) in the Nissan L6 sub-forum. Might get more responses and find more topic-specific info related to you specific issue. Just a suggestion...your call.

Such a bummer to see all your hard work going up in smoke (literally) — but a big Kudos to you for deciding to rebuild. Best of luck with it. 👍👍

Welcome to HybridZ! What are your plans for the car? TONS of great info here....start with the FAQs, if you haven't already done so. Good luck with the build!

See Post #10 in the attached thread from ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/?_fromLogin=1