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Saw this on FB marketplace and had to share....looks like a heckuva' deal from the pictures provided. The purchase price isn't much more than the cost of a g-nose kit alone. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1091472531719529/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Agree that it's not an ideal solution; and yes, definitely use grade 8 or better hardware. You can also choose your mounting bolts to ensure maximum length of the unthreaded shank, which will minimize the length of the threaded portion....just make sure you carefully measure the total length of the spacer + caliper mounting tab. And ensure that the hole in your spacer closely matches the OD of your bolt's unthreaded shank. This should give you overall strongest mounting solution. Other vendors offer big brake mounting brackets which have been machined in two planes to overcome the offset issue you're dealing with. Attached photo from T3 is an example of what I'm talking about. Silvermine Motors used to offer individual big brake kit components for sale....if they're still producing those brackets, that's another option you could consider if your current solution doesn't work out. The owner, Edan, is pretty responsive to technical questions IME. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts Don't give up...this kit can definitely be made to operate correctly and safely!

Hey all, This question is mainly directed at the Site Admins, but open to anyone that may be able to help. Seems like there's a preset daily limit on the number of "Reactions" that a user can apply to other users' posts -- and that limit seems to be one (1) per day. I'm referring to the small heart-shaped icon in the lower right of a post, which allows other users to click a "Reaction", such as "Like", "Thanks", "Confused", etc, etc. Am I the only one that's experiencing this daily limitation on Reactions? Has anyone else noticed this? I can't understand why there would be such any limit at all, much less such a constraining limit as once/day. If this is something easily fixable, maybe one of our Admins (or Moderators, if they have that capability) could look into changing it in the internal workings of the website structure? Thanks in advance. Vr

@Ironhead, I’m glad you chimed in, because I did a similar thing with my bar. Mine’s bolted in, and I wanted to retain the ability to remove it when necessary. I fabricated some bolt-in brackets which utilized those mounting points on the roof support and two beefy 1.75” tube clamps. Provides two additional mounting points for the bar and the extra chassis stiffening Jon and Clark recommended. BTW, love your car...beautiful build!

Thx for taking the time to continue this important discussion, Clark! At the risk of publicly making a fool of myself, I'll go first. I was thinking that it would be useful to talk about how much great data can be collected & recorded with just simple hand tools, vs sophisticated data loggers, video devices and smart phone apps. Attached is photo of roughly $60 worth of simple tools readily available from multiple vendors (including your local hardware store). As @clarkspeed mentioned in a previous thread, there’s no limit to amount of data one can easily collect & record at each and every track session to help improve your driving performance (e.g. lap times, driving smoothness, capability of the car, etc). Here are just a few of the data parameters that I have found useful, FWIW: Suspension setup. This is a BIG system, with LOTS of variable parameters that can be measured and tuned to achieve your best performance. This can also vary widely – no single setup will rarely work optimally at every type of event (auto-x vs road course vs straight-line vs oval track, rough surface vs smooth surface, variable weather conditions, etc, etc). Camber (front and rear, left and right), caster, front-end toe, ride height (front and rear, left and right) can all be measured with simple tape measure and angle finder. A cheap, accurate digital angle finder is $20. A tape measure and some ordinary string can be used to accurately measure your front-end toe; and after doing it a couple times, it becomes second nature to quickly and accurately measure and adjust your toe settings. Tire pressures and temps. ALWAYS measure tire pressures, hot and cold; to determine what pressures work best for any given surface and suspension setup. Equal pressures on all four tires is not necessarily the best solution….you can vary front vs rear pressures and right vs left pressures to achieve different handling characteristics. When measuring tire temps, use a probe-style pyrometer vs surface temp IR gun. The IR gun can only measure surface temps on a tire, which doesn’t give an accurate indication of a tire’s internal temperature, which is what’s really important. Additionally, the tire’s surface temperature can change significantly from the time you exit the track to when you actually take the measurement, vs the internal temp remains quite consistent for some time after exiting the track. A cheap, accurate pyrometer and tire probe costs $20 and a good tire pressure gauge is $10-$20. An IR gun DOES have many uses, and can be had for $20. It can measure track surface temperature, which has a huge effect on tire performance (especially short-duration events, like dragracing, top-speed comps, auto-x or time trials). IR guns can also be used to measure brake temps, differential temperatures, header temps (including individual header tubes) and many other useful mechanical parameters on your car. It can verify that your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are operating correctly and accurately. Ambient weather condition will also have an effect on the car’s performance; so be sure to record those, as well. Ambient temperature, sunny vs cloudy, altitude density and precipitation are just a few of the many weather parameters that can factor in to affect your car’s performance, and these parameters are all readily available with just about any good weather app or website. Sorry for the long-winded, and rambling, response. These are just a few examples of the data that can be easily and cheaply measured & recorded; and I’m sure that my feeble-minded reply is missing a whole bunch of stuff….others will chime in, I’m sure. This is more just to get the discussion going. I look forward to the ensuing discussion and sharing of information!!

Ditto for me. I guess I haven’t been paying close attention to all the clues for spammers and bots, but I do try to report the obvious spammers & phishers when I see them. Happy to act in some limited “Admin” capacity if it helps lighten the load on our Moderators.

What car/year/model/version???

@grretc may be able to help, if he’s still active here. IIRC, he sells new and reconditioned dashes and consoles.

Sorry, can't help you with your immediate question....but is the clearance so tight that you can't jam anything (e.g. high-density padding) between the bar and the roof?

If you’re planning to do some auto-x and track days, a square setup will be more economical in the long run...allowing maximum ability to rotate tires front-rear-left-right. This is particularly important if you choose a softer compound tire. Wheel spacers and spacer-adapters can give you flexibility to adjust track width, as necessary. The other option that many folks use is one set of wheels for street use and one, or more, set(s) for track use. (My wife tells me that I’m limited to no more than four sets of wheels & tires.)

That’s unfortunate. Sorry you’re having such a problem with them; but your update is much appreciated. Several good vendors have run into business difficulties (for a multitude of reasons), and many of them just never recover. Thx for keeping the community updated, and good luck whichever way it turns out for you.

While this has turned into an interesting discussion (largely focused on race-tire/wheel options), I’m thinking it has probably strayed from the OP’s intent. @Wheeliegeezer, have you considered trying a wheel mock-up tool to determine your optimum diameter/width/offset?

@inis, unless you’re planning on making this a build thread, you want want to post your question(s) in the Nissan L6 sub-forum. Might get more responses and find more topic-specific info related to you specific issue. Just a suggestion...your call.

Such a bummer to see all your hard work going up in smoke (literally) — but a big Kudos to you for deciding to rebuild. Best of luck with it. 👍👍

Welcome to HybridZ! What are your plans for the car? TONS of great info here....start with the FAQs, if you haven't already done so. Good luck with the build!

See Post #10 in the attached thread from ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/?_fromLogin=1

Can't tell from your second post if it's fully sorted; but it's not at all unusual for the split washer to dig into the metal on the steering wheel hub. Don't overtighten it -- follow the recommended torque spec. Do you have sufficient thread engagement on the nut? If not, consider swapping the thick split washer for a thinner style lock washer...that should easily add at least a couple threads' worth of additional engagement. Alignment: if you're not happy with the centering of the steering wheel, you don't necessarily need a full front-end alignment. Just decide which direction you want to adjust the wheel to, and adjust the tie rod ends in equal amounts on both sides until you're happy with the steering wheel centering (it will only take a very small adjustment of the tie rod ends....recommend starting with a quarter turn each). Hope this helps.

Should be a pretty easy problem to solve. As you said, check all the linkages; and be sure to check the pedal mounting pivot point (in the footwell)....there’s a spring there also, which might be affecting the pedal action.

Good advice from @AydinZ71. I would add one additional thing to consider....if your primary concern is during stop & go traffic, consider popping the hood release and letting the hood ride open a couple inches while relying on the safety catch. (This assumes that you have a properly-functioning hood safety catch.). Used to do this all the time when I had to drive in a heavily-congested area. It allows a lot of underhood heat to escape, and doesn’t have the high pressure buildup at windshield base as there is at speed.