jonbill

cold start isn't what happens when its cold outside and you start your car. ANY outside temperature is a lot colder than the running temperature of the engine, and it needs fuel and timing adjustments while it warms up. so suspect a temp sensor somewhere.

I don't think you're engine is running lean.

Yes, just lowered. Its a diesel block, 20mm taller, and I wanted it to still fit under my strut brace.

Fwiw, I lowered my engine 20mm and had to grind a little off the oil pan edge and rack mount. so 2" lowering would need some work.

I think the LD28 oil pump is the same as the NA petrol oil pump. the LD28 water pump is higher capacity than NA petrol and the petrol Turbo oil pump is higher capacity than NA petrol. you can buy the Hitachi turbo zx oil pump from rockauto.

the hose is probably for the MAP sensor in the MS. it measures the air pressure in the manifold. (high with the throttle shut , low with it wide open). It needs to connect to the inlet manifold between throttle and engine. the place you bought it must have some instructions.

The diagram shows the injectors have +12v at all times I think; doesn't go through the switch. So: it will idle on 5, but if you try to rev it higher, it dies. correct? But, if you ground the 6th,through your test light, it will rev. correct? as @NewZed said, its probably bad earths from the ECU.

so it runs with any 5 of 6 injectors plugged in and any 1 of 6 disconnected? or is it a specific one that has to be disconnected?

The epoxy putty fell off during the run in, but it didn't leak 🙃 I've put another lump on now, mainly for luck!

Progress is delayed. I hadn't noticed the bead on the gasket is just outside the block where the coolant bypass is on a petrol block, and I had a leak when I assembled it. I've built the block out with a spot of epoxy putty to give the bead something to sit on. No idea how long it will hold, but tomorrow should be first start.

what cut out switch is it? maybe its got some diodes (or?) that affect the potential of the ground. or maybe the connection just isn't good.

ha!

ah yes, I get it now, thanks.

surely an idler sprocket isn't going to impose much speed variation on the chain - it'll be completely dominated by the driving and driven sprockets, so wouldn't the polygon effect mean the idler sprocket speed varies instead? the term and concept is brand new to me, so I could be completely wrong.

thats a fair bit of work. did you have to lower the rear arm mounts too?

Ah, we're talking about the twin idler, I thought you were hinting the longer chain would be different! I've has it for years on the previous couple of engines. I love it.

There's a lonf thread on here about it somewhere. I think the main points is it controls the chain at high RPM and especially when the engine is decelerating - the standard setup lets it go baggy on the tight side, changing timing. Also its dead handy for taking up extra slack after you skim the head and also it doesn't try to fall out when you take the head off. I'm not sure about it sucking energy to make that noise. It really is just two idler gears with little resistance. Maybe something to do with the oil spray from it.

what should I expect? I'm using the Kameari twin idler, so I'm not expecting trouble

Thats a thought. I have an RT mount as a snubber, so would only need to add the GM bit. I understand it lowers the diff a bit by default.

thanks, that makes sense. But, how would I shim the front of the diff to get it lower? surely a shim would raise it?

I had to grind the inside of the bell housing some to get the clutch to clear. I'd read that about the XTD RB flywheel and clutch some time ago and forgot so that cost a few hours. Next problem: with the taller block, the exhaust fouls the bottom of the bellhousing. More grinder work.

I've made my engine mounts and the engine sits in the engine bay under my strut brace. the engine is sitting about 15mm lower than standard. I think that means that the gearbox tail will be higher now, having pivoted about the gearbox mount, changing the driveshaft angles. Which I assume is undesirable, so I'm trying to work out how much to lower the gearbox to correct it. Do I want to lower it enough to position the gearbox output/driveshaft front joint at the standard level, or do I want to lower it a bit more, to keep the angle with the rear driveshaft joint as close to standard as possible? i.e. do I lower the gearbox to be on the dashed line, or on the dotted line? https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1a1wM6wG2ZG1w3WTNqj22jJPKzhEA00ezUdC-XjMPnTs/edit?usp=sharing

Engine is assembled. Next step, trial fit in the engine bay and figure out the engine mounts.

FWIW, I don't use a cam position sensor. I use paired injectors and wasted spark. The current standard boards can't so 6x6 sequential anyway. AIUI, sequential is over rated!