stravi757

Hey guys yesterday one of the TC rods on my 280zx snapped on the freeway. A little scary to say the least. Anyways I thought I had spares but all of them turned out to be for S30's. Is there anyone local who has a pair laying around or is parting a zx? I could buy one on ebay but I dont want to wait for shipping since I cant drive my car until I get this fixed. Im in Danville, so If any of you bayarea guys got one please let me know. Thanks.

If there is a rust spot like that, i guarantee there is more rust on the floor pan. If you have the time an energy to replace the entire floor pan, go for it. If not you have two alternatives that My brother did with his car. -Either you clean up the rust as best you can, Use a wire brush and scrub it hard, then spray it with a rust inhibitor you can buy at any auto store. Then buy some FIBER GLASS bondo and smother it all over the hole, this will hold for a decent amount of time and flex so it wont crack, plus keep water out. -Or, you can cut out a square of where the rust spot it and replace it with a piece of sheet metal. I wouldnt suggest doing full beads on the weld, it will more than likely burn the metal. Just tack weld every centimeter or so, then cover up the holes around the weld with fiber glass bondo. Keep in mind my brother is no expert here on welding or fixing rust, these are just a few options for a budget fix My brother also used a chisel and hammer to remove the tar padding, actually worked very well.

I fits not rusted badly, then great deal. or like said above, even if the tires have a lot of tread. still a good deal just in parts alone.

I thought ARP's torque was 60ft.lbs. not 80?

I would make a small trip out to california and buy A 240z or 280z out here. you could pick up a pretty decent car complete for around 1k-1,800

It is unlikely that you will ever get the engine to start cold with the chts unplugged. A bad chts Sensor could very easily be bad causing problems for starting and drivability, not uncommon. A new sensor is only about $30, I would start by replacing that. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Tested your alternator? No point in replacing it if its in good working order. Its tough to say what the problem is with the info you gave us. It could be alot of things. A bad air regulator may cause you stuttering startup if its pretty cold outside, but problem should reside after 30 seconds or so by holding the throttle down slightly. doesn't sound like this is your problem. Please download the FSM and start reading through there. Its simpler that you think and it will more than likely answer some of your questions and help you understand how the efi works.

funny. I was thinking the exact same thing.

sucks to hear. It will most likely pop up in 2-4 days though. hopefully nothing damaged or anything more than the stero missing.

Same, I actually stopped using the search function here as soon as the site switched over to the new format. The old one was awesome. I never had any trouble finding info, this one blows. But it is much better in other ways. If they could just incorporate the old search function into this one... Which is making me now think, maybe people wouldn't ask as many obvious questions if they knew to use google to search hybridz instead of the search function? I know i never have luck with it but almost always find what im looking for when I use google. Maybe alot people dont know about this? I agree on making more stickies as well. I have learned a lot from them, maybe have a sticky with all the fsm's, EFI Bible ect.

Anyone here look at this car. Would be an awesome deal for ZX guys if milage is actual. http://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/3260727428.html

I dont think its a common problem, but I have had it happen to me. It is inside the transmission bell housing. Its a metal clip that attaches to the inside if the clutch fork(clutch fork is what your clutch slave cylinder is pushing), and it sort of snaps onto the pivot ball. Luckily I needed a new clutch anyways so it wasnt like I took the tranny out for no reason. but I was completely confused when trying to figure out what the problem was with my clutch until I pulled the transmission to find that the return spring on the clutch fork came out of place causing me to have none, to minimal clutch disengagement.

Does the car shift through gears easily when parked? If all of the clutch hydraulic components seem to be in good order then another thing to consider could be the clutch fork return spring(you showed us a picture of your brake master cylinder not you clutch master cylinder BTW).

I think your message inbox is full. I have the ECU, MAF, and chopper wheel(distributor disk). Pm me

Where did you get the dizzy from. Now that im thinking about it i recall selling a couple dizzys a while back. And this thread is making me realize I think I sold one with the z31 wheel in it...

If you are getting compression, spark, and can verify if the fuel injector is firing and putting fuel into the cylinder. Then possibly you have a burnt valve. Have you checked your clearances lately?

Im fairly sure they are different from each other.

Looks like a 280zx thermo housing to me. My bet is that the water temp sender you have there is for a 280zx or vice versa, which would explain a bad reading.

Did you check your connections at the ecu?

Have you checked your fuel pressure? sounds like your running dangerously lean.

Id take a look at the AFM, make sure the plug on the bottom is all the way on. And make sure the AFM is not on backwards!

Start by reading this, it explains in detail how the stock efi works on your car, its very simple to understand. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Buying a new thermo time switch was a waste on money IMO. Its much more likely that your water temp sensor(located right next to the thermo time switch) is causing the problems you describe. Sensor could be bad or the connections are very dirty. start there.

just another perspective. I have a 280z with tokico springs and struts(HP's), and my brother has GC coilovers with fenderflares and rota's(17x9). My car is much more comfortable to Drive on the street. His car isnt horrible but it isnt exactly how you would prefer a car to be when its your daily driver... just know once you go fender flares your probably not going to ever go back. I myself always wanted to get ZG flares but when it came down to it, I just didnt want to cut my fenders. Now that my brother has them, I can tell you I would never go with fender flares unless it was going to become a track car. The look honestly stopped appealing to me when i started to wake up to see it in my driveway everyday. Seems like it looked way cooler when I would look at pics of Z's with ZG flares online. I wouldnt go with coilovers if the car is just going to be a street car. unless you want more drop than the tokicos can provide.

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good to know. thanks

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