Litman

If you haven't already found what you need I have a pair of unused fiberglass rockers. They came from the previous owner of my '71. I have no clue as to what their age is but they are unused and undamaged. Let me know if these rockers would be of interest.

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Excellent! I will look for your PM. The drivetrain is not currently in the car but I should be able to take numerous measurements & additional pictures to help with your fabrication.

I fabricated a cross brace and brackets to facilitate using C5 Corvette motor mounts. I am keeping the accessories which the JCI mounts don't play friendly with. I know the mounts are equidistant from the frame rails therefore I suspect my motor is dead center. When you indicate GTO biscuit mounts is this what you mean? If so I can provide motor mount measurements with respect to the frame rails.

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What vintage 280ZX, S30 or S130? I have everything pulled from my '83ZXT.

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I have a set of sunshades out of my '83 that I am looking to sell. Why not buy these and have originals instead of making some close to original?

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Just pulled one out of my '83. Cleaned it with Simple Green and a tooth brush and it looks quite nice. Should fit in a flat rate envelope. How does $25 shipped sound?

Last year I had my '71 completely soda blasted in preparation for restoration/modification. The car sat in this bare metal condition for better than six months while I did modifications, test fit items, applied Lizard Skin, etc, etc. During this time I saw no evidence of rust formation. From what I understand Sodium Bicarbonate is a rust inhibitor therefore the process of paint removal leaves behind a protective coating. This coating remains until you wash the car with a special solution (hopefully provided to you by the business performing the soda blasting). You MUST wash the car with this chemical prior to priming or your bond may be compromised. I should provide that my car was in a climate controlled environment for this entire 6+ months therefore results may vary with more aggressive environments.

Zee, I believe I can help you out. I have an '83ZXT sitting in my garage just waiting to live on again in other people's cars. It has the digital instrument cluster so I can't assist you there but everything else I have. Two issues: I haven't been able to insert the key so I've been unable to test the stereo. I have verified the power mirrors work. T5 transmission is still in the car so I would have the pin and clip you need. And the dome light is there as well. I am headed out of town tomorrow and will return Saturday morning. I can dig into the car at that point, disassemble the ignition and power the radio. Everything else can be extracted this weekend as well.

I have a nice set out of my '71 available. All four move freely and come with all hardware (plastic spacers, etc.) PM me if the other offer falls through. Cheers

I have one in very nice condition, boxed and ready to go. Just tested it: 0.0 - 9.8 Ohms full range.

Should you ultimately need the entire box and pedals I have the set-up for a 260Z

Mine seemed to fit just fine with the T56 transmission. 1TuffZ in the background "lightening" my car.

I have a set of Tokico 5020 springs new in box. They are part of a strut spring combo I obtained. Using the struts on my car but do not need the springs. $175 plus shipping.

A simple solution, and one I did for our LeMons car, is to spot weld 2" or 3" flat stock on the floor running from rocker to tunnel for both front and back seat rail bolts. Mirror these pieces with flat stock on the underside of the car essentially sandwiching the floor pan between. This will position the seat bottom parallel to the floor pan. Unless you have race seat side brackets with multiple mounting holes you may need to use something like channel for the front mounts to replicate the factory reclined position. Images of this approach in my '71.

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If you are using your car aggressively (Auto-X, HPDE, etc) anything you can do to stiffen these noodles we call Z cars is a good idea. I have no empirical data to confirm my design works however it makes sense geometrically.

Alas, despite numerous prods from 1TuffZ I have yet to start an actual build thread. Partially because I have had this intense fear of failure and I really didn't want the whole (likely partial) HybridZ community see it.

I researched for and purchased two diamters of carbon fiber tubing in 6' lengths and matched these with two lengths of 6061 aluminum rod. The aluminum rod OD is almost identical to the CF tubing OD. Lastly I bought matching pairs of left hand and right hand threaded heim joints. After figuring out the triangulation I wanted in the engine bay I measured the lengths necessary and cut the CF tubing. The aluminum rod was cut into 3" lengths, two for each tube. The aforementioned machine shop turned the aluminum end pieces to the ID of the tubing, leaving a little at end to form a lip/stop. He also center drilled and tapped the end pieces so the heim joints would thread in. In addition I had him cut a little relief into the end pieces to allow a little extra epoxy to help bond the aluminum to the CF. I am pretty pleased with the results.

There may be off the shelf tabs available but I am not aware of them. I put a lot of thought into the method of connecting everything and needed a lot of unique bits to pull it off. I made templates which were converted into metal tabs & brackets by a local machine shop.

Yes. I made carbon fiber engine bay bracing to go along with the Cusco STB.

Same with mine. Appears to be purposeful.