softopz

Say no more. Ms3x kit has been out for some time we don't post much on the forums.. fully sequential, flex fuel, oil/fuel pressure sensors, pwm idle, stepper IAC, boost control. Launch, fan control, and much more . Includes pressure sensors x2, speed sensor, TPS, air and coolant temp sensors. https://protunerz.com/collections/plug-and-play-harness/products/ms3x-ecu-l-series-plug-and-play-harness-kit

😍 Been following this one for awhile. Keep it up more info on transmission please. Which ECU are you going with?

Just a small update we have already shipped out Intakes and we have some left!

NO hes hearing the injectors click not dizzy. Could be a bunch of reasons Here are some I would check in this order. Could be no power to the coil simple check with a light. IF YES check this.... Relay, Fuse, Physical connection. IF NO PROCEED to next Coil Wire to dizzy nice and snug. if yes continue COIL is bad How to check- Check FSM there are resistance test. IF good proceed. bad connection between COIL (NEG) to transistor source external / internal pin36 Ohm out. Bad transistor external / internal ( I doubt it ) If I had to guess its the BIP transistor touching the heat sink/too much thermal paste. Assembly guide as for using metal screw i use the nylon there. IF it is this you still learned something like trouble shooting flow chart. Goodluck

I got one pm me , tried pm'ing you says you cannot recieve.

INTAKE (4 colors Red, Blue, Flat Black , Polished) Anodizing at no extra charge Angled Plenum/Runners: improves air flow smooth transition into head allows easier access to Header/DownPipe for maintenance. Less Heat soak due to reduced heat absorption properties of materials (when compared to stock and other aftermarket manifolds). CNC BILLET Flange with built-in fluted runners to minimize eddy turbulence and promote nearly even cylinder head aspiration at all ports. Gorgeous Fabrication: TIG welded Aluminum Bolts and Fittings included. Vacuum ports: 4 on the top/side to support vacuum-based accessories and accurate MAP readings. Durable Finish FUEL RAIL (5 Colors Black, Polished, Red, Blue, Purple) Fuel Rail designed for 14mm/11mm Or oem Barb style Injectors ORB-8 inlet with 6AN male fitting ends Fuel Pressure/Sensor Port (Plug included) THROTTLE BODY (Will match chosen manifold color by default. (Otherwise message us for different color selection). 90mm Throttle body, Improve throttle response and increase air flow! Cable actuated. Improves throttle feel and smooths pedal feedback. (Plus no more yellow balls and ugly mechanical linkage!) Utilizes stock OEM TPS/240sx or 2jz adapters included! (for modern Engine Management Systems that require potentiometer) Shipped Via Express Tracked and insured. Intake is very well packed with dense foam to ensure perfect delivery. Please view pics

I went through the same struggle for a number of years too!! Thats why I mentioned MS2 ironically we now are a dealer for Megasquirt and offer a turn key package. That includes Pre-configured ECU, plug and play terminated harness + fusebox/sensors/

I would start with when this happened you mentioned 4 years ago it was running. And then what suddenly no spark? Can be a couple of things. I would start troubleshooting backwards if that helps. You mentioned You swapped an HEI module why did you do this? Pull out the FSM for zxt there is tests you can do for: COIL CAS IGNITER (transistor) You can try to the PRW2 ignitor from later Nissans they are plentiful. There is a writeup on that somewhere. "Now i had this engine running 4 years ago although not very well I think it was low spark from the old coil." This all to familiar to me. Honestly, do yourself a favor and get rid of the stock 82/83zxt ECCS system they are very troublesome. You can get a 300zx ECU/MAF for cheap or ms2 system (we do offer a plug and play complete system) I went through the same thing 15 years ago trying to diagnose, trouble shoot and crap shoot everything. Even when it ran would sputter and backfire. Ahh good memories........ Also did you verify with multimeter while IGNITION ON and RUN something easy overlooked. You also mentioned you get a spark jump while you turn on ignition on that is very strange.

I know who makes these hes local to me and he does good work. Support smaller local Datsun Parts suppliers who are hobbiest just like you and I. p.s. we need to talk me and you

Do you still have the hazards / choke, and I'll grab the distributor off you.

I haven't done the cooling mod. To be honest I don't know at the moment.

As you guys may have seen on social media we are almost finished putting the final touches, for a custom intake manifold for the l-series. We thought it only be fair to post here as well. Here are the details... Finally a Beautifully Tig welded Aluminum Intake Manifold For the L-Series motors. With a choice of 75/ 90mm Throttle body and Fuel Rail. We have been researching and devoloping this behind the scenes it is a very well thought out piece that has function and form combined. Link to store with full details (75mm intake set) Follow us on our Facebook and Instagram by giving a like to stay up date with new product development and sales. now check out sweet shots!! More on our social media pages Link

Does that intake clear inner fender? Specifically throttle body/tps. Mine is hitting needs to be either clocked 90 put cable from top of manifold, cut out/bang fender/shock tower, or change angle of the flange at intake side. Thats for me with 2jz, cx mounts(altered them to have motor in the middle though. Dont know about if you fitted before or not.

I wouldnt tie into sensors grounds for the reasons you described above. CLT sensors are like 20 bucks (pm me I carry metric and npt type with connectors) if you sucked it up for an ms3pro and speedhut. You dont have to run the oil pressure sensor for ms but with so much spares inputs , it is a nice additional add on you can set parameter like limp mode if oil pressure goes down etc.

NO Finned cover left ! TURBO MOTOR SOLD updated in the top.

You can get GPS speed via the tablet sensor, Oil pressure would need a sensor to MS2 which is doable.

I bought too for my last build a gt3582 clone was amazing! Mind you I did not put allot of miles but plenty of people run them with no issues. You have to remember when Chinese Turbos first came out on the scene they used inferior materials and they never got balanced. The tarnished history takes allot to get back in the win colum however its still Chinese turbos you get what you get at the end of the day. There are some "better" chinese turbos apparently like CX and VS racing. Lots of the sloppy mechanics followers use the VS racing turbos 700-1000hp junkyard LSX setups too.

Americans dont know about boxing day they have Black Friday though. I think its a British, Australian and Canadian thing . edit thats your crank case breather, on fuel injected cars it goes to the intake manifold with PCV valve.

I have noticed this too, It was available before.

I just saw some custom mounts on facebook for an Lseries They looked quite nice I must add. I cant find it now but if you post on the z groups there you will see some .

No its just a step up for the barb you should be fine.

One of your pics scare me you dont want the harness through the turbo like that.. Did I not leave enough slack? I am referring to pic 2 btw. IM With Rossman here no on the heat shield. I would put the EBC on the side shock tower. I have mine there too.. Also if you dont want to run an adaptor for vacuum line , You can get the appropriate barbs for the solenoid I believe its a 1/8npt. You can plug one of the two turbo fittings never understood why Nissan put two boost referenced on the compressor housing.

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Shes idling nice. I would get a wideband in there as soon as you can. If you need connectors, for coils , injectors or any of the sensors I have those in stock. With that much patch work I would go with full floors or atleast front one big patch it will look much better. How does it lookI know the 280 fuel lines run on the floor vs 240z so something to think about. How does it look behind seats?

I doubt the spring and ball would do that. Thinking there is something off inside ie synchro, or linkage issues. Whats strange is can shift in into the 2n and 4th rear gears so maybe its not a external linkage issue. Could it be wrong reverse switch maybe too long not allowing it to get in? I am just thinking out loud here with you buts thats where my thought process would be.