Forrest

My p79 handles boost just fine.

Which compression fittings are those and where did you buy them? Thanks! -Forrest

I hope your car is done.

First, invest in an FSM. They're not that much and you could have looked up the answer immediately. You haven't done nearly enough narrow the problem down to the FPR and frankly, I don't think it's likely. However, it's very easy to test, you need to buy a pressure guage and splice a T into your fuel hose after the filter. Then disconnect the starter signal wire and have someone crank the car (to run the fuel pump). The pressure climb to 36 and stay there. First thing you need to do if the car is not starting is pull the coil wire and put it near a ground. Is it sparking when the car turns over? Then repeat this test with a sparkplug wire and a plug. If you're getting spark, pull the plugs and look at them. Are they in good shape? Soaked in fuel? If they're firing and they're dry, use a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listen to the injectors. Are they firing? Check the injector ground connection to the battery.

It's a really long series, I prefer possibly having 60 hours in TV shows to a 2 hour movie. PPV from Japan gets posted to bittorrent trackers pretty quickly so I think we'll get subbed versions without much delay.

I just saw the press release about WM anime airing June 8th. This is freaking amazing. I've been waiting for this to happen for over 5 years. Then I saw that the director, screenwriter, and mechanical designer from Initial D stage 4 are all on staff for the Wangan Midnight animation. This is the best news possible. I can't imagine better people to make WM a success. Of course having Tsuchiya on board will be great too - especially since he acted in some of the Freeway Speedway movies as himself. This will be incredible, I can't wait. And yes, values on S30's (especially turbo swaps) will go up.

bryan, that looks like an RB - how are you controlling ignition? Are you using the EDIS controller?

Nelson bought that car specifically because you did all the work.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120638&highlight=plugs+turbo

Dude. Punctuation. I'm not reading another post like that. Lower numbers are richer if that's the way your wideband controller is programmed to display them - that's the way it is set up by default. If you didn't change anything in your MS settings and it was running fine before it's probably a bad connection to one of your sensors. Check all their readings and look for one that's really wrong. Look at the coolant, air temp, TPS, and your MAP sensor. I thought I was going to have to call a tow truck once because my car started running extremely rich all of the sudden and I had to pull over. Turns out the cable to the relay board had come loose because I hadn't screwed them down (still in testing/setup phase.) Once I hooked up the laptop it was obvious the sensor grounds were disconnected and it took 20 seconds to find the problem.

Saw your post in the other seat thread. So did you use the 350z rails or the 240z rails? What did you have to do to get them in? I definitely like them.

Amazing find - I just hope you changed the oil before driving it. I wouldn't trust the stuff from 89!! PS - I hear this is an easy swap: http://www.zparts.com/showcase/msSR20swap1/intro.html

Whoa there, you replaced the entire relay board? I just said "relay", those are a 2$ part. I doubt anything was wrong with your board. Did you check for 12v at the pinout of the relay board when the switched power and main power were both hooked up? If so, check your relay cable. Is your relay cable using at least 20g wires?

The other suspension bible: http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car-Handle/dp/0912656468/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-4003387-8716859?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1177244150&sr=1-1

I can't say what caused Pete's problems, but I've had 0 issues with the Eastwood tank coating. The application took something like 8-9 hours, and it was not fun, but it is 100% solid, none of it has come out (I have a pre-pump filter that I check periodically since the problems that caused me to coat the tank in the first place.)

Yes, I read that. However, I happen to know many people who are using the rubber mount with 0 problems and less noise. This may be because they are not in Pete's car, or it may be because they're using the stock mount on the bottom. Unfortunately (for me) they didn't need the part number because they are lucky enough to live where at least some of the people who work at auto parts stores that aren't robots. Here, if you don't have a part number, you don't get the part. So. Does anyone have the part number?

The detail on those is amazing, but I don't get the appeal of seeing automobiles in a state of decay.

I have bought a lot of stuff from AIM, they are great. It's sad though, 5 years ago I could get 1000rds of 762x39 for 87$ at a gunshow, and not the Wolf crap, either.

Thanks, but I was referring to the part number for the rubber OEM mount.

Thanks, I will call them and ask. I am using the 79 280zx 15/16 master and I have not installed the wilwood prop valve yet (I have it). I talked to Dave at AZZ and he said the 15/16 works well for this application, but I would definitely feel better (after fighting this for a year) to hear it from Wilwood. He also said I should be able to get a firm pedal without installing the proportioning valve. I held off on this because I'm going to have to cut my brake lines and I didn't want to possibly introduce more problems until I took care of the ones I had. He also told me to leave the stock one in place...I thought that was the correct install procedure. Can brake bias issues cause you to lose all the pedal pressure, though? Thanks for the response, I'll try and look into both these things.

Could someone please post the GM part number? I checked all the old threads and the links are broken. I would like to try the rubber mount.

If I knew, they'd be fixed. It feels like there is air in the front, no matter how much I bleed. We blocked off the master after I replaced it several times, and it's fine - we blocked off the fronts and the rears feel 100% solid as well. Booster and master are brand new, calipers and pads and flexible hoses are brand new - the only thing left is the hard lines and stock porp valve & distribution block. All connections have been checked and tightened and none appear to be leaking. Pressure bleeding = no air, bleeding by hand (mac tilton) = no air, vacuum bleeding, I think I did get a little more air out initially (hard to tell since you have to retape the bleedscrews every 10 minutes) - but I'm not sure, no more came out and the pedal still just as bad. We tried unplugging the calipers and plugging the lines, and bleeding them out, and the pedal still felt just as bad, so I might be able to rule the calipers out if we really had all the air out of the ends after doing that. It's hard to tell without bleed screws. I'd guess it was a leak but I can't find any fluid anywhere. Stock brakes were working perfectly before I took them off.

Before: After: Off the road 2 years, 6 months and counting. Wish I could get these stupid brakes working.

Sounds like you narrowed it down to the relay itself already. Did you try swapping it out?