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I think PWM control based on intake temp would be the best, but I'm assuming you don't have an intake temp sensor?

It will be interesting to see how the Helmholtz-style resonator changes things.

You can get a T-56 to fit in an S30 with some work, so you can pick basically whatever Chevrolet manual trans you want.

They've been the standard for a long time. Recently some other options have come onto the market, Capital Metal Works being one, but I've never heard a bad word about Bad Dog.

Do you have a T3 kit that uses the Q45/Z32TT wheel bearings as well? I recently found and ordered some new OEM rear bearings for mine. You maybe know this already, but they were out of production for like a decade and the only ones available were NOS for $450+ each. They must have done another production run, because plenty of places are selling them now, but still for the insane prices. I ordered from a UK vendor that cost for 2 what most places want for just 1. It was also the only place that actually listed the bore diameters, verifying they weren't just making the same mistake every major retailer in the US had made for the last 10 years of selling non-TT bearings as TT bearings. https://zcentre.co.uk/product/300zx-rear-nissan-oem-wheel-bearing-twin-turbo/

It always depends on pricing, but I'd be interested. I like the fitting arrangement and the bulkhead electrical connectors, but not in love with having a separate lift pump. Holley, Aeromotive, and Tanks Inc all have pigtails or studs rather than the bulkheads, so it's a compromise no matter which way I go.

The FPG units look nice. Do you have a link to what you bought? For some reason I m can only find vehicle-specific kits that mount like the stock pumps rather than with the universal ring like you have.

Excited to see another build thread! The forum had a bit of a lull recently, but hopefully some good threads can kick it back into gear.

Where's the rollbar coming from? I looked into getting one from VA Engineering in the Netherlands a few years ago since Tony had sent them an original set of brackets to copy, but they said it would be a one off and never actually gave me a price. I see Mizukami in Japan offers them now. It's a good time to buy with the current exchange rate.

I can't tell if this is snark because Eric has pointed out actual issues with stuff you've done or if it's just a very poorly worded compliment.

Is the auto-tune function on? It's possible that the ECU is trying to correct something and is doing a poor job of it.

That looks good to me. When you remove the heater core and oil cooler loops, all you're left with is the input to the pump and the outlets on the heads, so as long as you maintain a large enough bypass it should be fine. Really all you're doing is moving moving the radiator around and getting rid of the extra loops. What's the stock bypass vs what you're planning to do? The stock diagram makes it look built into the engine. Or is it a t-fitting in the hoses?

I'm using OEM spindle pins in OEM bushings and control arms. The T3 bores are tight enough that glue residue from the part tag on the spindle pins keeps the pins from sliding into the bores. If it were rod ends I agree that there wouldn't be an issue. There will be shims between the upright and control arm bushings to make the fore and aft movement essentially nothing, so I'm really only worried about the rotational force from the control arm bushings. I think I'll add in the lock screws. The time it will take me to drill and tap two holes is pretty minimal, and I'll stop worrying about it.

Is that a finished photo or progress shot? It's a drain rather than a pressurized line, but AFAIK you need to get they hose pushed all the way onto those fittings.

Yes, sorry, aluminum. I somehow missed that you had flexible lines running through the fresh air duct that are already insulated. That's genius. I was already planning on running my wiring harness through the passenger side duct, but hadn't thought of doing the same with the AC lines. I might have to copy you.

That looks very tidy. Are you planning on adding some slip on insulation to those eventually? I'd imagine the stainless tubing will sweat a ton without it.

That was what I was thinking as well. The only thing that has changed is the transmission, and the only thing the transmission can change about engine mounting is the angle.

I'm working on installing a set of T3 rear uprights. The uprights don't include a hole for a spindle pin set screw like the OEM uprights do. With how the pins are clamped into the outer control arm bushings, this will result in the spindle pin rotating in its bore as the suspension travels. Surely this will cause wear and slop over time? The metal is plenty thick enough to drill and tap for a small bolt, so that's where I'm leaning. Anyone have an opinion on this?

What do you mean by too high? Is the valve cover hitting hood or something?

Welcome to the forum and great first post!

Changed from welding to now panel bonding?

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

Excellent work on the switches. I'm excited to see the rest.

Sorry, didn't mean to give you that impression. I would pull it and drop it in your pickup bed/trailer with the engine hoist.

I'm in Los Angeles and have a carbed N42 still in my car that's a classic "ran when parked five years ago". It ran well, but has a couple broken exhaust studs and some leaks, so would be a good candidate for a freshen up. Im not sure on value. I believe a few years ago Datsun Spirit advertised a $900 core charge, but now you have to call them to get that info. Facebook Marketplace and eBay generally show over $1k. I'm open to offers, but i think around $1k is a fair starting point if you're interested