calZ

I always thought the "correct" way was feed from the thermostat housing and exit to the water pump inlet. There's some discussion about it here https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/130709-l28et-cooling-system-layout-critique/

For that, there's the self-learning FI systems that just replace the carburetor. If you want anything more complicated than that, there's a large step because you can't use the existing equipment on the engine.

If the pedal travel is too much, just upsize the master cylinder.

You can actually get 275s in the rear without flares as long as you have adjustable suspension

Nope. Chrome on Android

It only happens when the page loads slowly. It starts as the Skillard logo and then swaps over. It seems like either a redirect or the logo updating as more page elements load.

I'm talking about the favicon. The little icon that displays on the tab next to the page name, or is the only indicator of what the tab is if you're on a mobile browser.

I may just be crazy, but I've noticed the last couple days that when a page loads slowly, the Skillard logo is on the tab, and then transitions to the HybridZ logo. Does Skillard own the site now? Just hosts it? Or is my phone having a strange glitch and I'm just dumb?

I'd think 1/2" would be within the realm of just rolling your fenders rather than going through the work of adding in new metal and blending it.

Are you going to be street driving the car? You don't really need a speedometer on the track IMO. If you end up getting a lap timer, many of them can display MPH as well.

I saw the snippet about 3/4 when reading about the head yesterday. Do you know if he did anything specific to alleviate the 5/6 problem? Is his plan for that just the internal changes being enough?

Just for the casting, right? Rockers, valves, etc will add up

Maybe do the gas strut conversion?

Your car still has an ammeter, not a volt meter, correct? Someone might correct me, but I believe all the alternator current flows through the ammeter, so if your gauge is fried it would block the current and prevent any charging at the battery.

Ah, that'll do it. I was going to say it you were not going with a cage, having the rockers off would give you a good opportunity to add some interior tubes for strength. Probably a good idea to have a cage in a 240Z with 600hp anyway.

What's your plan for chassis stiffening?

Yeah, Hoke retired from Datsuns, and I think Godzilla only sells them as part of their kits. You might be able to email them and get one separate. I really just meant that I assume since all 3 people that offer(ed) them did floor mounts, it's likely that there isn't room. It could just be for simplicity though. Are you putting a CD009 behind an L-series, or do you have a different engine?

The CD009 is so wide that you have to remove the stock ears, so it's possible you might not have room for tabs. Hoke and Godzilla both have floor mounts too. That could be so customers don't have to weld, but you might just not have room.

1. No one is going to see your brake ducts. They're behind the wheels and should 100% be form over function. 2. Half an hour with a hand drill and a tap is all it would take to make the 4 holes usable again. 3. You're just feeding air to the center of the rotor, so the shield/bracket shouldn't need to be very big

Why do you need a re-think? Wouldn't you have noticed if your cardboard mockup hit the tie rod?

I'm always impressed by how nice the KF Vintage panels look. Hopefully the fit just as nicely. Have you seen the finger controls you're able to get for TIG welders? Might be worth picking one up if you prefer to TIG with how many panels you'll be replacing.

Is this some kind of advertising bot? The bumpers look nothing alike, and I don't think the Skillard product even existed when this thread was started.

Does anyone have a shop they've got experience with for rebuilding water pumps? I've acquired a sought-after diesel pump, but it's used. Right now my top 4 options in order are: 1. Flying Dutchman http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/ Seem to have a good reputation, as I've found them recommended on multiple different classic car forums. 2. http://www.az-rpm.com/wprebuilding.html Found via Google, but advertised services give me confidence. 3. http://www.waterpumpman.com/ Same as above. 4. https://egge.com/water-pump-rebuilding/ Local to me and have been around forever, but seem to focus on very old, domestic cars. Anyone have work done at one of these shops or similar work done elsewhere you'd recommend?

If you wouldn't mind sharing your research, what's unsafe about it?

So you're just filling all the rust holes with filler? What about the large ones where entire areas are missing?