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Greeko

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Everything posted by Greeko

  1. Greeko
    That looks great! Nice to have unlimited budgets
  2. Greeko
    Drop an LS under the hood... Best bang for buck, reliability and awesomness!
  3. Greeko
    I am running a Champion 3 row..works fantastically for a great price!
  4. Greeko
    if you have absolutely no follow questions I am going to say YES, it is identical... Maybe u should compare differences
  5. Greeko
    The JZ is actually 45 lbs lighter than the stock L28.. I get it though...People will always work on whatever engine you want..just gonna cost you. Parts may be a touch more difficult to source etc etc. Sadly I do not have my old videos.. What I can tell you is it started first try... Amazed at how easy it was. I will be posting more up...just finishing paint right now.. Just laid down first coat today!
  6. Greeko
    I'm going to chime in here...... I was down the same road as you...and decided that its WAYYYYYYY too much work for me to reach 300-400 whp with the L28... So i dropped a 1JZ/W58 with a microtech lt12c. Took me 3 weeks, 6K and i was DONE and RUNNING...easy swap and part availability is super easy(same parts as 2JZ for the most part) I'm sitting at 383 WHP with 14 lbs of boost bone stock internals and turbos....
  7. Greeko
    Chat with Ihiryu on the forum. The BCs are wayyy better!
  8. Greeko
    Another thing I thought of is check your Battery Voltage. Make sure its not low, Lower voltage will cause a higher current to produce the same power. In addition fire up the pump and measure the voltage on the Fuel pump...If its low..check your battery, charging circuitry and possibly the connection you made with 14 to 10 awg. Do not use crimp connectors for connections like this. Solder connections.
  9. Greeko
    Ok, the Bosch 044 pump draws around 18A at full Load..so essentially a 20A fuse is cutting it a bit close. You need to size the fuse to protect the wire and the device. IF you use 10AWG the wire is rated for 40A, 14 AWG is rated for 25A. If you are popping this fuse there may be an underlying connection issue or a faulty pump. I would remove battery power and check the following: Resistance between the relay board contact and the fuel pump... This resistance should be very low (less than 1-2 ohms). If not, check wiring, connections If that is good check the resistance between the pump negative terminal and ground..If this is low then your ok, if not, check wiring, connections Check the resistance between the Relay board ground/neutral and the Pump ground/neutral. If this is not low, resecure the relay board to ground Remove the Positive and negative from the fuel pump and Relay board. Check resistance between the two wires. If this value is low you may have wiring grounding out or burnt through insulation... If you have any more wiring questions don't hesitate to ask.
  10. Greeko
    Very nice engine build man! Looking forward to progress pics...
  11. Greeko
    From my brief tenure as hobby car restorer I have learned a couple things.... Home DIY Blasting, dipping, rust removal BLOW FAT CHUNKS!!! Messy, dirty, painful and a WASTE of your time... I enjoying doing it myself.. (pause for horrible joke to set in) but certain things I will send off and happily pay a little more or most likely the SAME up front and have a professional do the blasting/rust removal... Once that is done heck yes I will have fun welding new patches in, skimming etc.... And on that note...I have also learned to SPEND MORE MONEY and get a better vehicle to start on (unless there is a sentimental attachment to the original vehicle).. People have this idea that if they buy the cheapest Vehicle out there it will cost them the least amount of money...IT WONT!!!.Ask me how I know...lol.. Just my rant after finding more awesome rust in a spot I had already gone over ...sigh..Never ends lol
  12. Greeko
    I didn't have rust in most of those areas. I did however spray some rust converter in gaps and crevices to make sure..
  13. Greeko
    I guess it depends on how hardcore you want to go with her... I am doing a resto mod so i stripped it and sanded most areas and blasted the hard to reach areas to make sure... I am very happy with the result and was able to do the work mostly myself..
  14. Greeko
    Well Said, This is why I will be happy to spend my money on this guy! Sadly I already made my own and went with Microtech..
  15. Greeko
    Do yourself a favor and call up Softopz on hybridz.. He build harnesses and does a great job. Reliability = a nice new fresh harness..Trust me!!!
  16. Greeko
    yeah man, that undercarriage is top notch!!! wow what a labour of love!
  17. Greeko
    Wow, lots of really nice parts! I can just imagine how much it cost you to get it to that point...It's not cheap! Sadly I agree with JSM, you will get hit hard for the vehicle being in parts.. Parting it out would be a crying shame... What were you hoping to get for it?
  18. Greeko
    Very thoughtful guide! I went the easy way out and took my car to ForceFed Performance in Abbotsford BC. They did my dyno tuning and overboost protection programming. They are the JZ/Rotary specialist for the NW in my opinion... I was very pleased with the numbers they produced with original Coil packs, injectors and turbo...
  19. Greeko
    Are there any choices to protect overboost other than fuel cut?...ie leaning out your cylinders?
  20. Greeko
    The attention to detail is amazing! The panelbeater is doing a great job. I have had some of the similar issues in the rear roll pan and hatch area. Took me a long time to get it done. I will be adding a build log eventually lol...
  21. Greeko
    very cool!
  22. Greeko
    Very impressive build!... No expense spared.... that Acid dip must have cost a pretty penny. Close to 10k here in bc with all levies now
  23. Greeko
    High end is Turbo, Low end is NA.... That makes a difference! It really depends what someone is willing to pay for it I guess.
  24. Greeko
    I spent 10k just on motor/tranny swap (1jz/w58). $15k sound reasonable based on your expectations
  25. Greeko
    Wow, thats a lot of work to scrape the chassis. Looks good though!
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