rags

I think I got it now. You really aren't trying to direct the gasses at a particular spot on the turbine, only speeding up the gasses by forcing then through a smaller space? Makes perfect sense now:mrgreen: Joe

Okay so weld in plates it is. Front up first. I'll try to document my progress. Thanks Jon. Joe

Yep. Thinking turbine and writing compressor. I know what it's doing, just don't understand why Tim's blocking the half of the charge that he's blocking. No need for further explanation as Tim tried the first time around and my old brain wasn't grasping it. Joe

Hi Tim, Great work as usual! I'm still baffled as to why this works when forcing exhaust gas to the center of the compressor as compared to hitting the fins where they would be easier to spin at the outside. I guess that's why it takes me 2 months to get afr readings in sync between the tech and handheld huh? Anyway, great work and I'm glad to see her back together and making great power! Joe

Now that I am getting close to finishing all of the nuisance items on the LS1 car, it's time to start the fine tuning. I noticed the car doesn't have nearly enough negative camber, giving that big rollover feeing on the track, so this is the next thing to address. Rear should be pretty easy as the car already has adj control arms and I think I have enough tire clearance even with the 350Z wheels I currently use for street (actually street and track sice I haven't purchased and track wheels yet for the 5 lugs ) My question is how much negative camber is gained by using weld in plates? I'd like to steer clear of adj control arms in the front because with the car at correct ride height and caster, with no flares the front tires are unbelievably close to the fender and airdam. The airdam already has been trimmed on the drivers side. I'm going one step at a time here guys so the best bang for the buck considering what I am working with is what I'm looking for. Thanks Joe

If they sell it might be time to list mine joe

If I'm not mistaken, either the 280zxt or 240sx calipers will work with that bracket. I'm using 280zxt calipers. Joe

You are half banned from my house. Paint the turbo car yellow and it a full ban! Joe

Make sure the belt is tight.

Owen, My 71 looks just like that. Don't sweat it. Joe

Clive, I think you have it backwards, the setup is correct. The fine particles are trapped at the second filter in the engine compartment which is after the pump. The one down by the tank is before the pump and is only used to trap larger particles. Checking the primary filter finding nothing then the secondary filter and finding mud makes complete sense and can only mean one thing. Someone dumped Nestle's Quick in the tank!

I'm assuming the previous owner had changed the first filter without touching the second. He had indicated when the car was purchased that the tank had crap in the bottom and had burned up the fuel pump. I changed the pump and fired up the car. Shame on me for not changing the filters. At the track, the first filter was checked and found to be clean so the second filter was not looked at Funny thing the second filter looks to have been added as an afterthought as the line coming up to it is long enough to reach the fitting directly after the filter. Simply bypassing the filter at the track would have saved the second day. Oh well, more parts to add to the "better take an extra to the track" pile. Joe

Easy fix on this one boys. Clogged fuel filter. Don't overlook the simple stuff Joe

Ok changing my diagnosis since I didn't know the car was smacked. All three could be related with something as simple as a hole in the boot connecting the TB to the AFM. Joe

Hmmm.....I'm assuming you will have the ECM reprogrammed to remove two of the O2 sensors. I'd do that first and see where you stand. Sounds to me like O2 sensor issues which could be addressed with the recode. Joe

They don't really increase FP. The FP will just go to what is initially set without vacuum. Actually, I always set FP with the vacuum line disconnected.

43, 58, 62 doesn't mean a thing if the tune was done at that FP. Now if the pressure changed after the tune was done then there will be problems. As of right now we are just grasping at straws. What I have to do is find out from the tuner what base FP he used and then check FP under load. Until I do that we don't have a baseline to work off of. A vacuum source is doing the same thing to FP as is done with boost. It is adjusting for the difference in pressure seen at the tip of the injector. Look at it this way, if the engine is running under vacuum, the tip of the injector is being sucked on which will pull fuel from the injector. The reason a FPR does the 1:1 thing under boost is to compensate for the pressure the tip of the injector sees under boost. As for the FPR being after the rail, the rail will see all the pressure that the pump can supply. The regulator just bleeds off anything higher than it is set for. Joe

What really has me puzzled is the kick after keeping your foot in it. Valet mode should never do that. Opps, did I say that? I had to do something to keep the blue paint off the car!:lol::lol: OUCH!!!!!

Well that would have been the smart thing to do so you know I didn't do it New alt got the car running again but still no power. I'll do some logging to see where it's at. Joe

Well here is one update. The alternator gave up on the way home! Don't know if that is what was causing the erratic behavior but I guess we will see once it is replaced. Joe

Well it's been a very confusing weekend. A few of us, EvilZ, 1TuffZ and myself were all set up for Watkins Glen to do some fast driving, David in his LS1 240, Clive in my LS1 280 and me in my turbo 240. Well my 240 never made it due to some scheduling conflicts but all was well otherwise. Since Clive was driving my car it was understandable that he didn't want to drive the car at 10/10 and said he would just try to lock down a line and be smooth. Fine with me. Between me and Clive there is always some banter about who's car is fast and who's car is a slow piece of crap. We do agree on one thing, my brown LS1 car is slower than his old LS1 car and my turbo car. That being said, when he can into the garage after a few laps and said the car had no power, I took it with a grain of salt. As the day went on, the description became more detailed. Third gear, power on then off then back on again. Losing between 30 and 40mph up the esses. WTF??!!? Now just prior to heading to the Glen we had the car tuned and aligned. The car put down 396hp which I was okay with, so to hear we were losing that much speed as baffling to me. The third gear on again off again power has me guessing a fuel issue. Clive had called the shop that tuned his car and they pointed to the tune. I'm having trouble believing that because of the dyno number above. Instead of just jumping in and bringing the car to another tuner, my intention is to bring the car back to the original tuner to get his diagnosis. I'll post back here after speaking to the original tuner. Joe Pretty funny seeing me pay to have the LS1 car tuned with that signature, huh? Damn LS1Edit!!

+1 Ya beat me to it Austin. Maybe it's because I'm only 7 years older than my oldest Z.

2 of mine have also broken and have since been replaced with bolts. Joe

So I've been struggling with a car that wants to wander all over the place especially under breaking. The car (DaleMx's old car) is far from stock with 5 lug conversion 18" wheels, coilovers, etc. I had originally thought the problem was caused by the lowered ride height and much larger wheels until I discovered the spacer that goes on the TC rod under the rubber bushings is missing. Instead of trying to source the spacers, I figured I'd bite the bullet and start looking for adj tc rods and adj lower control arms. After doing some searching, it seems like most are no longer making these and thuse who do are making high dollar billet pieces. Is anyone still making affordable pieces out of modified stock parts? Joe

That's perfect! Hmm......I might need to get a stronger pair of reading glasses from the drug store Joe