rags

Hey Len, Is the Ford input shaft the same length as the Nissan shaft?

For those that don't subscribe this is what I posted. "Hey Pete, Are you bringing your engineering marvel to the convention this year? Will it still have the 327 or will it have the 406? I think it would be fun to turn a few laps at The Glen. Your Blue 327 powered marvel and my grassroots slapped together Scarab positioned 327 chasing each other on a roadcourse. What do you think? It won't answer any questions but it sure will be fun!! Joe " I didn't want to get into the which one is better discussion as I felt there was no way to make Kim see it any other way than how he posted. The reason for my car being in the Scarab position is simple. I did the swap 22 years ago and there was no JTR method. If there was I would have gone that route for no other reason than the shifter position. I had used a Super T-10 and relocated the external shifter so it would come up in the stock location. For anyone else the motion is weird but I'm used to it. I did think about moving the engine to the JTR position but haven't gotten around to it, too many other projects. Maybe someday. Any volunteers to get me motivated? Joe

Has anyone done this? Use Z31 Turbo 87-89 front spindle and hubs to adapt Z32 front rotors and calipers - bolt on. The front strut tube is the same diameter as the 280Z front strut tube so if you were going to do a coilover and cut the bottom spring perch, why not do it to a Z31 turbo tube? I haven't tried this myself but asside from steering knuckle differences (don't know if there is a difference yet) This sounds like it could work. Anyone? Joe

I have one for ya. During my rebelous youth, on weekends in the summer my friends and I would drive to the Jersey shore for some fun. When you get 6-7 cars filled with car car guys driving the 80+ miles you know something is gonna go wrong. On this one weekend, the runt of the cars we had, a 63 Ford Falcon with a straight 6, started to overheat. With no water bottled water to be found, we used the water from the melted ice in the beer coolers we had. After a few stops there was no more water and some one suggested pouring the beer directly into the radiator. Now you know how that went over with the other guys on the group, a big NO WAY! Then the brainstorm. If we drank the beer we could pee into the radiator! We did make it to the shore and no, we didn't tell the garage that worked on the radiator why the steam smelled funny! Joe

I'm using 45mm back spacing with 225/45 17's and Ross's adapters. There is virtually 1 mm of space between the tire and the spring perch in the rear on a 240. There is no way I could fit a 235 back there without coilovers. Joe

Thanks! Just what I wanted to see. Your 280 was lowered because of using the 240 isolators, right? Joe

Welcome to the list! I have put an VLSD from a Q45 short nose into a long nose R200. The hardest part for me was finding 300zx SS CV axles to engage the VLSD! Joe

Can some one tell me if there is any difference in lenght between the strut inserts for a 240 and a 280? Is the difference only in the diameter? The reason I ask is I sectioned a set of 280 rear strut tubes and I used a 240 front strut for fitting. I know the 240 insert has a smaller diameter than the 280 strut tube. If I order 280 inserts will the the sizing be correct? I guess I should have thought of this before sectioning them. Thanks. Joe

pj, I use a TEC II and don't have an IAC. You can get it to run fairly well without one but I am contemplating installing one if for nothing else than to be able to tweak my idle that much more. I would use a knock sensor. It's good insurance against a poor tune Joe

I'm not sure I understand the setups. Will you be using the VLSD from the Q45 in both the long and short R200 case? If so, you are going to need a Z31 SS CV halfshaft and adapter for the long nose R200 for your first setup. Joe

Looks great man! Congrats. Is that the engine position your gonna use? What is the car next to the Z that has the GN seats? Joe

Zero, You have a PM. Joe

Hi George, There are many on this list that are more knowlegeable than I but I'll give it a go. Have you checked the fuel pump relay? From what you are describing, it sound like the pump gets power from 2 different places, one for startup and one for running modes. I'd look for a power relay for the fuel pump. Joe

How about $7000 for a complete paint job? I was getting prices of $30k from the shops that would even talk to me. The shop that I finally got to do it was a reputable shop that was always busy with insurance work and would occasionally have a full paint job. The shop didn't have to assemble, the car, it was completely stripped of all glass, interior brightwork and powertrain. When I got it back there were drips down the length of both sides and the bottom of the rockers had no paint. It looked like the guy tried to use gravity to get the paint on the bottom of the rockers!!! Be glad you don't live in my neck of the woods! Joe

Sell it in the northeast!

Stony, Just click on the poster's name. All the info is there. Joe

The simpliest way to find out if you have a fuel pressure problem is to put a temporary fuel pressure guage on a long enough hose to be able to tape it to the windshild, in line with the fuel rail. This way you can see if the fuel pressure drops when the sputtering occurs. Does that make any sense? Joe

By any chance were there 2 different graps for HP and torque? If there were, that would explain why the two didn't intersect at 5252. Joe

If you car is an early 260, you can swap out the strut isolators for 280 ones. This will raise the rear about 2 inches. Joe

It gets it's vacuum just like a N/A motor, from the intake manifold. There is a one way check valve in the vacuum line for the times the motor is under boost. You really never hit the brakes when under boost unless something is drastically wrong! Joe

Shoot me an email offline. I may be able to help. Joe

Where's the love? I have searched and read all the previous posts about this and see that it has been discussed to the hilt. Everyone seems to hit on how to go about choosing a spring rate and theory behind how a properly set up suspension should work. All I want to do is have some fun on the 4-5 track days a year with a setup that doesn't sound like the back of the car is falling off. So from what I have read so far I am looking at sectioning the rear tubes by 2 inches and using a 10 inch 225# coilover with a 240Z front insert. Sound about right?

I guess I should clarify on the coilovers. I didn't mean they were difficult to iinstall. I meant to say I don't know how to set up the car to get the most out of them. It could be because of the time involved to set them up or that I'm just too lazy Joe

I just realized why I don't enjoy driving the Z as much as I used to. It's because of the rear suspenson slop/clunking/noise that I get whenever going over the smallest of road imperfections. Yes, it's my fault for neglecting things back there. I don't even know what springs are in the car as they were in there when I got it 6 years ago. What I am looking for is a solid (figuratively) rear suspension that will work well on the street and road course. A stiff street car is fine as long as it doesn't rattle! I'll be using Azinas on the track as well as the street. The car already has the driveline taken care of so that is not an issue. Also, I'd like to stay away from coilovers if possible mainly because of cost and not knowing what the h&ll I'm doing when setting them up (already going through that on the 260). Sectioned struts are an option if someone has a recommendation for who can do it for me. I'm open to anything else. Oh yeah, I'll be doing the front also but the rear is the priority. Sorry for the babble but I had the car out this morning and I find myself doing more listening for potential problems than enjoying the car. One unrelated question. When on the track, I can heat up the LSD so much that it will chatter like crazy when going around turns. It will do this until I let it sit in the pits for 15 or so minutes. Has anyone else experienced this? And yes, I have changed the gear oil and used GM additive. Thanks everyone! Joe

Come on Len, let's go! I'm signed up for the 8th at Limerock. Still don't know how I'm getting off of work! Joe