tube80z

Lisle 55600 in case you need it.

I'll second that and mine was only 9.95

Since I'm posting I'll probably be wrong but I remember those a hot street grind. A lot of lift and short duration. I think somewhere in the 475 to 495 lift range but shorter than stock duration. I had one in a street car in the eighties and it was NOISY. The aggressive ramps seemed to about double the valvetrain noise. I'll have to see if I can find my original BRE book as they were listed in it. Cary

I have a 4x4 Titan and 15 to 16 on the freeway empty is normal for me. Towing runs in the 10 to 12 range depending on how fast I go and what trailer I have behind me.

The video really doesn't have much more than what he has explained in his newsletters. I wouldn't recommend purchasing it. I'd use the same money to buy Neil Roberts new book Think Fast. He has an example of using a FEA model of your suspension that does the same thing Ortiz is talking about but it also takes into account tire spring rate. It's a really good book if you haven't heard about it. Cary

It sounds like the basics are covered here. If you are starting to generate downforce and want to be able to run softer main springs you may look into a third spring. For our cars the easy way to do this is a Z-bar. I think I would focus on keeping the high pressure air in the engine compartment from dumping under the car any way you can. Take a look at pics of ALMS GT2 cars as they have a lot of ideas you can poach (splitters, full length floors, wheel vents, diffusers, etc). Cary

If you ever autocrossed at the fairgrounds in Salem or Redmond this would look very familiar. Cary

Not to be argumentative but you can increase caster and not increase trail. I also think you'll find that pneumatic trail's contribution to self centering is much smaller than that of caster or SIA. Cary

I think mostly what your seeing is a design that has less SAI (steering axis inclination) and a lot of caster. Where I think the magic is in new cars is the bushings. The can be very compliment in certain directions and very stiff in others. Cary

I used to have a severely bent race car and it always pushed in one direction and was loose in the other. When I measured the car I found the wheelbase was about 1.5 inches shorter on one side. Squaring the car made it work the same both ways so I would say this can be used. On a friends car pushing the wheels forward for more caster move the balance close to 1% to the rear. But you have to be careful with rules as a lot of sanctioning bodies require a specific wheel base. Cary

I asked Claude Rouelle in his seminar what he thought of the hyperco perches and he said there were no better than the torrington bearings and caused problems with frequency response in the suspension. He shared a few cool videos from Ohlins engineers that showed how much the spring would rotate and bend out of plan under load. I think Hyperco may have something similar on their site. In the ICP seminar (Richard was a presenter) he talked about the perches and how back in the days of IMSA GTP that they would often see shock shaft failures from the bending loads being placed on them. These perches remove most of that and allow everything to more with less friction. When I asked about struts he said that they tested in a dyno and it looked okay but on the track the side loads caused so much friction there was no real benefit to be gained. For a street car I wouldn't use these as they require frequent rebuilding unless the design has recently been changed. For Toby's BMW has you tried hanging the ARBs from heims as has been discussed before. It makes a similar contribution. Cary

Oddly I had a similar list I was thinking about. I talked to Richard Pare (he invented the hypercoil perches) and he said they offer no advantage on a strut suspension. Were you thinking about them to reduce NVH? I would add a few things. Woodward custom power rack and KRC pump to be able to adjust the steering feel to my liking. An upgraded HVAC system and a decent cruise control. I had a new 1978 280Z with factory air and it doesn't come close the to the system that was in my SER or my Titan. And for NVH I've often wondered if you could put some sand on a bare floor and run the car to see if there were wave patterns that formed (perhaps too low tech). Cary

Nothing. 14x7 is an oddball and you'd be better moving to a larger diameter that has a better tire offering. As OEMs keep going bigger the sixes for our older cars are getting much smaller. Cary

Years ago I got to watch this car at PIR (Portland) and it would outrun all the IMSA GTP cars down the straight and then get caught in the braking zone. Over and over this happened and it was very entertaining. Cary

One thing not mentioned is body size. Try them in your hand first. I bought an original Canon DLSR and won't switch because of lenses. If I could start over I might start with Nikon now and that's based on how it fits my hand. I'm not a fan of how both Nikon and Canon downsized the bodies for the lower end cameras.

MST3K

The pond is a lot bigger than you have here. Basically all the green after the straight is water. Too bad you can't see the big burn mark and tree I knocked over from a few years back. We're now entering the corner at the end of the straight in the low 90s. The last recovery should be on youtube judging from all the cell phone video I saw being taken.

3/16 like yours. These got made in a hurry and I had intended to add a gusset but ran out of time. They do flex some but seem to work okay. My tie downs aren't at a super steep angle so maybe that helps.

Sorry, I totally blew that one. They also work really well when pulling the car out of a certain pond at the end of certain track ... but I don't need to say anymore about that. Cary "three times is too many"

They are the same arms that were in one of the construction threads from a couple of years back. I have the toe-link at the rear but they are very similar to your. Cary

On a 240 be very careful hooking into the rear suspension. When I started making some toe-link control arms I found a number of these had been bent from being hooked to and cranked down. The 280 arms are much stronger but after seeing this I built toe hooks like Jon mentioned to be able to quickly tie the car down. Cary

One thing to think about is you can add a lot of weight with wheels, tires, and brakes. Those add up quicker than some of the suggestions already given. Cary

Some showroom stock racers I knew years ago told me they stitched because you can pull the damage back out. With just spot welds the parts often split making it impossible to do. So I also don't understand why you wouldn't want to have things welded up front and in back. cary

If this corner is at the end of a straight your tires will cool down. Using the brakes really hard will help get them back up to temp. If you don't have them at the operating window you may chase your tail thinking it is a shock tuning/geometry issue. Cary

You can go the old school route and used a captured spherical in place of the stock lower control arm bushing. I'd bet someone locally does those and it should be a lower total cost. Cary