randy 77zt

gm pcm would be good-it has readily available software

vipec v88 will control drive by wire throttle-and also do traction control with the dbw throttle

96 e150 ford van with 5.8l and e4od trans-something to sleep in after it is unloaded.tows good and has good a/c.picture was taken in san felipe mexico

honda dealers might have some kind of service message out for this.do a google on it.if there is a fix its usually a reflash on 1 of the many ecm's found in a late model car.check tire pressure.if you can add more castor angle -not usually adjustable on a mac strut jap car.

a hobby is not an investment.it is something you rationalize that you are correct about while giving yourself pleasant thoughts of an adrenaline rush of speed.its an addiction you will never be fully cured of.i have owned a few very fast hobbies.my favorite 1 was a boat that would basically fly-or kill you if you got too happy with the trim lever on the motor at 100+ mph.boat=bring out another thousand.good luck on keeping your house.here in central california everyone is short selling thiers-you can buy a bigger house for less money then you owe on the 1 you are in for less $ per month.

what is the altitiude at bville?

get a wide band o2.i think with a wide band o2 i could tune a carb faster than me fiddling around with software tuning an efi system-you really need the data from the wide band

a few years back there used to be a black turboed s30 owned by a guy out of turlock california.he used to show it some.havent seeen that car out in a long time though.as far as vg30's-the local pick&pull has lots of them cheap.i would still put a vg30 in a 510 before a sr20.because i am cheap

i have worked in the past as a ford dealership mechanic.if you go into a sears store with a dealership shirt on they wont warrenty thier tools.why?they say they are for home use only.sears bought orchard supply hardware(west coast home hardware store)so osh sells craftsman tools.but they would exchange an old 1/2" drive ratchet handle because the could recognize the part# on the handle.had to goto a sears store to get a new ratchet.harbor freight-if you use it 1 time and it works it was cheap enough so you dont care .if it makes it past 3 times you are lucky.snap-on-some dealers seem kind of arrogant.if they dont have your broken tool on thier truck they have to order it-if they remember.i prefer thier box/open end wrenches though.mac dealers are the most helpfull

i am putting a computor that has been stored back online.its going to need new antivirus/spyware set up on it.i would like something that only operates when i want it to and not bog down the hard drive.any suggestions?

i used to work on street sweepers that were hydrostatic drive .pump and drive motor were made by sauer danfoss.when you let off the gas it stops quick.a crawler with hydraulic motors at all 4 wheels would work better than axles.military hummers have gear reduction boxes at the wheels.these would work good with hydraulic motors on them

a few years back when the had the shasta runs every summer he used to show up.that was a very datsun weekend i would look forward to

i have ran n/a 5spd behind a turbo for years.i used to do alot of open track days at infineon/laguna/thunderhill.the na 5spd had the best ratio spread for a street/track car.if you are not drag racing it will be fine.the na box shifts much better than a t5.just because you have a turbo it doesnt automatically need a t5 box.i really dont think that the t5 is that much stronger than the old nissan t5.a word class t5 from a newer mustang is a different story.

its not the boost that killed it.its the idiot not believing my timing light-too much timing.this was #4 cyl on my stroker l28et.i call it the ghetto stroker.made with free or pick&pull parts.i am kind of partial to oem pistons.they need less cylinder wall clearance than aftermarket forged pistons.problem was upon tear down i found a piston pin clip missing on #2 and the cylinder was scored.block is getting a sleeve in it.so its getting all new pin clips,new piston,new rings.oem nissan pistons are graded-my set is a #1 grade.new 1 is coated

cam timing or a vacuem leak?

if the tide is out your sweatin it-you need to get out fast before it come back.$250 seems a little steep though

thanks for the news that my old passport will be coming back by mail(hopefully).just another fine example of government effiency-paying twice the postage

i guess some countries need visas and some dont?havent had to do that yet.my old 1 just had alot of middle east stamps in it.may be heading to cabo soon though-on my dirt bike.

i used the snail mail service.i sent the old 1 back with the forms you get from the state dept website.the local post office put the old 1 and the forms in a priority mail envelope and sent it to the address for renewal by mail the slow-no-extra fees way.did not use a 3rd party service.mailed directly to the state dept .since i am not using it right now -but i might soon.there is an 800 number on the stuff i got back with the passport .i will call it tomorrow but i dont think it will get me any where

so after reading some of this post i would guess that the idea is to put a whole rb26 skyline engine /trans 4x4 system into a z.if you go shopping where i do(pick&pull) you will find lots of front wheel drive car parts and cv joint axles to use .just need some creativity,sawzall,and a mig welder.plus some time.but time is money.can the person posting this afford to pay me $20k for taking 6 months out of my life for making this happen.i would guess not

sent my passport in for renewal.got the new 1 back today .i figured the state dept. would send the old 1 back with the new 1 .i am bummed because i didnt get the old 1 back and it had alot of cool stamps in it from when i was working in iraq.anybody else had this problem?

i think it would be fun to replace just the front struts/rear shocks with some high dollar penske units and try the test again.doing some tuning with adjusatble compression and rebound..just making a car stiffer doesnt always work.the suspension should soak up bumps cruising around town and work well at the track too.if the suspension is working well the car will handle and ride good at the same time

i had a clunk that sounded like it was in back.removed the diff and inspected ok.while putting all back together i noticed the trans mount rubber was weak and the trans mount was grounded to the cross member.replaced the trans mount-clunk gone.auto parts stores still carry these-$22 at napa

i have 5-let me know what you need

check the ignition advance curve and get a wide band o2