RebekahsZ

Keep front stock and go solid axle in back. If you plan to use the turbo power.... I think you've got it backwards. Stock front suspension comes down from a wheelie fine.

Post lots of pictures tide75!

I don't personally like the current trend of totally huge flares and wheels/tires, and a car so slammed tht you can't drive it, but I think this build can only be a good thing. If I listen to the dialogue on the videos and don't totally focus on the Rocket Bunny kit, I agree with every sentiment that is expressed. I reallly liked what the dude says about how the car brings he and his friends together-hybridz is that for me. Lets get behind this-who knows, maybe we will have an internationally recognized personality as a member of our forum!

Also interested, but no info to contribute. I'm curious to see if the stock TC rod mount could be used as a radius rod mount for a solid dropped front axle for a drag/landspeed car where I don't want camber changes or toe changes as the ride height changes.

I wouldn't expect the cold air intake or the exhaust to make any difference unless you have a vacuum leak or something. Performance-wise, the size and straightness of these "tubes" probably only makes a difference when at WOT and high rpm assuming EVERYTHING else is optimized. If you have an aftermarket cam, the car will stink and seem rich at idle and part throttle. If you are having lots of driveability issues at low rpm and cruise, consider taking all your tuning components back to factory stock-the factory designers did a pretty good job getting 1 hp per ci from these motors. Sometimes we really just make work for ourselves trying to better what has already been done well. My LQ4 truck is a 389hp bat out of hell with a single exhaust with the intake air coming from under the hood. I spent $400 having my harness modified and my PCM flashed. Then $500 having the car dyno tuned after I put it all together. He did a couple of driveability tuning mods later for free. Best money I spent on the whole car (talking about the Z now). I have stock injectors on both vehicles and stock fiel rails on the Z, and i will be going back to stock rails on the truck when i have time. I have had no trouble with the car since (other than 40 y/o ignition switch trouble and a plugged fuel filter). Z is stock cam and i wiuld give up a little power on the truck to have it smell less at idle. You might want to save up a little of that hazardous duty pay and get some help on the tuning. Finally, I worry about your car in storage with this new gas sitting in the tank. Be sure he drives it a lot so you don't come home to a bunch of goo. Wish we were next door neighbors to be able to hang out.

Couple questions that I hope will be helpful. Be aware, Im a V8 guy, so I can't help with all that turbo stuff. But, Ive owned my Z for 25 years and Ive gone thru it several times. First, I don't see any budget for interior. Hopefully that means you already have a good interior. I know you say you don't know if you will track it. But honestly, the time to do some of the track mods is when you have it apart already. Specifically a cage. You can't really enjoy 300hp in a 3000# car on the street-you need to go to a track. So plan on track stuff, or you will be pulling the interior out again later and will be cussing yourself. To really enjoy a Z car fully, you gotta get it on a track. At least at a Z convention, which is a total blast. I think your wheels are too wide to not be budgeting for a coilover setup. Everybody these days is welding pre-made coilover kits onto their cars. You can actually do good coilovers on a budget the old school way by sectioning your struts. If you plan to lower the car and drive it hard, you need to be thinking coilovers. I would rather have a 150hp Z with coilovers than a 200hp Z without them. All the more with 300 hp. With stock setup, the Z is just a sloppy mess. Slap 250# springs on it with coilovers and you've got a fun, tight car. Finally, I'm not sure mandrel bends are worth the trouble. Just take it to a muffler shop and have a quickie aluminized system on it and be finished in a day. Be honest with yourself and others about which mods you are doing for performance and which mods you are doing just for looks. I will tell you that I have lots of little things on my car that are just for looks and a little warm fuzzy inside. Wide wheels and tires are one of those. There are not many cars on this forum that can keep up with a properly prepared ITS race car, and I think those are limited to tiny 14" wheels.

Don't get me wrong, I love my daughters, but it would be great to have a son to wrench with.

Congrats on your selection!!! I know a guy who will gladly keep your battery charged while you are away!

A rear bar will make lifting of the inside tire worse. You don't need a bar on back. Don't believe everything the "experts" tell you. To include me.

Your car is freaking awesome.

I used some fuel resistant sealant on my fuel tank and it turned into molasses and leaked like hell-be careful with that stuff. Might be worth testing it on something. And don't try to clean it off with carb cleaner-carb cleaner ruined my nitrite o-rings.

I don't want to thread jack, so we might want to start a ZAttack thread in the events forum (?). Socorob, you will not likely win any awards at this show-the only cars that won were either concours quality or rat rods. Those of us who just have really nice cars, like yours, likely won't win crap. It is a GREAT hang-out type of show. Lots of cars, but a really tight footprint. I plan to just set up a folding chair behind my car and listen to the fun comments and questions. Remember when I started a thread about doing burn-outs and totally freaked out the organizers? Anyway, I think we could try to organize a drag racing night on one side of the show or the other-I have no plans to hang around for the door prizes or awards. Nashville has a nice track-not sure if it is 1/8 or 1/4, but I think 1/8. I'm planning to bring my car in landspeed setup, but it would just be a matter of swapping rear tires to become a drag car. We also have a track at Etheridge, TN that is really nice, but they don't prep well for TnT.

Any chance this tire lifting problem is simply a matter of insufficient droop?

Having BOTH the diff and the axles is the thing. To use it, you must have both or it is worthless. If the case is dirty $600. Clean, painted and with axles: $1,000.

Love your web page! More pics of the airbag system?

Why did you put the relays under the seat?-they would get all wet when I piss my pants! Beautiful car. Any driveability issues with the 4-links being so short? What spring rates are you running front and back? I love your car!

How much money does that picture of parts represent?

T56. Only 1 trip to the track, where it ran 11.0 at 126 with a 1.43 60-foot.

Then he's gonna help me do twins on mine.

My daughter's science project was to test how the weight of a drag car affects the car's performance in the 1/8-mile. We loaded the car with 250# of sandbags, then went and drag raced until she and I were both achieving pretty consistent ETs. Then we took out the sandbags and repeated the test and tune. We graphed the results. Very simple project, but I got to hang out with Rebekah at the track and she got good with a clutch. This, of course, was with the L6 and her fastest mph was about 68mph. I would not do this again with the LS2. She made an A and all the boys thought she was super cool!

I think the part number is RM-8020. I also added the "window modification." This bellhousing needed to be indexed, as the locating dowel holes were off by quite a bit.

Put those tires in some trash bags and store in dark climate control. You could be on the chassis for several years and the tires will lose a lot of grip due to age.

That body is badass!

Just for comparison, this is my stock LS2 with JTR shorty headers, an u deed rice crank pulley and a tune. Brand of dyno unknown.

I have the F-body oilpan and it hangs 1-1/2" below crossmember, so I welded a "cattle catcher" onto the crossmember to protect it from a big rock in the road. I have high centered on it once on a buddy's driveway, but I got lucky and it didn't crack it. My next car (if my motivation increases) will have to contend with the front end coming down from a wheelie, and maybe a full bellypan, so I will be doing the Corvette pan to keep from wiping that sucker out. I've seen a lot of carnage from wheelie vs oilpan-spectators love seeing sparks after a wheelie, but it looks painfully expensive to me.