stony

NICE:trippen:

When are we going to hear this thing running?

Dont take this wrong but not alot of Z guys will not like the look of your Z.... with at said!!!!!!! that is a steal. If i had a shell i would buy it and transfer everything over to it!!!! Anyone out there wanting a rb25 swap there it is. buy it drive it to your house and start on it. !!!!!

I used the AZC Z car radiator. Motorworx fabbed up the crossover tube you see on the top. It works great. Even hotlapping on Hot days never got above 180!!!!!! here's the best pic i have of the install the way it was. Pics from the AZC site http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html

Bare minimum to have a running reliable street car....10K if you do everything on your own. little cheaper to do the Rb25. period dot end of story search this forum and you find everything you need.

never noticed body shop put it on back in japan 6 years ago

Just remember that this does not apply to all rb26 blocks. The later blocks are not drilled and plugged but do have the indentation showing where to drill!!!!

Nice!!!!!!

If it hasnt been replaced allready, fairlady or not, it is a r-180 the 75 280 had the r-200.

I had bought a Z and just started searching for general info and i came across the sight. In fact before i had decided on the rb swap i had pestered scottie about his GNZ and what parts i needed a couple times.

OBTW here are the struts I got fro my MOCC up. They were Cofap OEM Scirocco strut insert Part number 30017 Fully extended 20 inches Body length 12.5 The konis that I had installed were 21.5 fully extended and the body was 15 inches. If I figured it right I will be able to section the struts 2.5 inches and this will put me right where I want to be as far as ride height

Is that an ebay intercooler? what are the measurements at widest point. Mine is a bit too wide and is going to need modified to fit. Going to cut off down to the end tank and weld on a tight 90

So i guess i will just get my current gland nut machined to fit:mrgreen: Thanks for the info john as always..... helpful

Well i finally got my vw struts. the body is 12.5 inches long and the strut total length is 19 inches or so.. This is perfect and will lower the car ALOT and gain some suspension travel. They are larger in diameter then the konis i had which means they dont slip up into the the strut tube nut like the konis did. Is this bad? do i need to get a different upper strut gland nut? if so anyone have a part number or ideas?

I very rarely go to that site for that single reason.... they dont know so they bash, and talk ♥♥♥♥.

Got a link to the thread anout studs too long?

Most people here that are looking for a AWD Z are more in to the lower sports car look not a 4WD offrader look. And if i remember right the pathfinder sits pretty high any pics?

Disreguard my first statement about mine being for sale didnt read you original post real well. But i prefer the bolt on ZG fares looks much better then the molded.

Joel im not gonna use mine. 150 + shipping and there yours. one has a very smal crack but teh clor is very close to what you havel allready

WHAT???? Thats not the issue. the head is flat and the manifold flange is flat. The forward flange is lower then the rear flange.

Not for me ..... just gonna throw it in the parts bin for a rainy day when i have teh time and energy to expend on this manifold. I guess i could put it in a press or something and try and get it closer. Any suggestions????

well it didnt fit. the manifold flange was two pieces and the front flange was 1/8 lower then the front flange off. now lets see how their costumer service is

I was joking. just didnt know what the hell titanium coating is:biggrin:

I talked to the guy that is doing my chassis and he said even if i brought everything to him tacked in place and all he had to do was clamp it and weld it he couldnt do it cheaper then what i got the manifold for!!!! I have the real parts in where it counts. Not trying to be a smart ass but tell me where an exhaust manifold will hurt an engine if it cracks. Or if a waste gate fails (I will have over boost protection) or if a blow off fails. Worst case I will not boost and just put all my other stuff on that is name brand :> I have said several times now that the parts I have chosen to run have been run on other cars that I have either personally seen or heard from reliable people and they have had no problems. So please everyone I have heard all the clichés about these "cheap" parts ... its getting old. When I get the car to the track and run the crap I will tell you how it does.... when and if it breaks you can say I told you so. But really you can’t because im going in knowing the chance is that something will break and I will unbolt it and put on my ugly old good stuff

No matter what replies you recieve here please go get yourself a NHRA rulebook if you dont allready have one and research it yourself. Only way to be 100% sure.