Synlubes

In BrandenZ first pic, you can see the PCV valve at lower left of pic with the big black hose attached. In his second and third pics, he is holding a / the check valve (may differ depending on model).

The port with the red cap needs to go to the brake booster with the check valve inline. The booster should hold some vacuum. The tapered side of the ck valve goes towards intake side and the flat side of the valve goes towards booster. The other "big" fitting can be blocked, unless you need vacuum elsewhere. The smaller fitting could be used for the distributor or blocked if you are not using vacuum advance. Just use some fuel hose (or simular) from the intake to the booster.

To much truth to that. But, Bill kinda has a point also.

Thanks for posting NapaBill and welcome. Folks the man knows what he`s talking about! The book I mentioned above shows all the e tube configurations and has a chart showing just what NapaBill was saying (as well as alot of other info). Buy The Book

The emulsion tubes # also relates to where in the rpm range the engine gets more or less fuel (low rpm richer or high end richer, etc.)(but only 1 part of the big picture). One of the best books I have found for weber tuning is Weber Guide To Parts & Tuning from http://piercemanifolds.com/accessories.htm It is easy to understand and has lots of pics and part info / #`s. Buy One! I think mine was about $20.00 I have several weber books, and this one tied it all together for me.

Does anyone have info on the name brand / quality of parts from http://www.nissanpartstore.com ? I am now buying some nissan branded parts from a local shop. The thing is, these parts are some of nissans inventory that they dumped and the parts have the brand name ground off. They are being sold by "resellers" and come new in a zip lock bag (no nissan box or wrappings). I also know that most of the "after market" parts are made buy same manufactures that supply parts to the name brands. Even after saying this, some are better than others. Ck with a local bearing supplier in your area for bearings for the rear.

This seems to be the case with other Z`s I`ve been in with camber plates installed. As long as things are tight and installed correctly you should be good.

Could only imagine what the monkey is thinking.

Thanks for posting your comments Larry. In your pic I see some areas that look to be "cut away". Are these the areas you are referencing? (edit) never mind, I posted right behind you.

Pretty slick cowl induction setup. I don’t know whose car this is, but Very nicely done! pic is from classic Z car I had to share

So is this where we are going to crash after the party? Good to here your progress.

So what will you say about the quaility of construction?

I did some lite searching . . . Is there a web site? Who sells em? Any info

I may be wrong but I think carb cleaner will take paint off. Maybe use mineral sprits (lite coatings at a time)(and some lite scraping) to take the thick undercoating and stuff off. Then finish with the sprits and a rag once you get to the lighter goo.

At the end of it all, The good things you do or have done in life will amount to more than the bad. So far this year, I rescued and saved a baby bunny and a baby bird. I feel good about it too! sorry folks, I had a sensitive moment. (sniff)

Dan, you`ve been holding out on us. Do you have any other pics of your dash from different angles ? Very Nice !

Owen, Looks great! I had been thinking about simular venting (maybe closer to the front)(starting just behind radiator support) to exhaust air coming thru the radiator and under hood out over the hood. Are the molds for your vents all one peice?

Looking foreword to the pics!

L-series blocks (4 & 6) 3/4 x 16

It was more or less just a general statement. Not just this case. Our tax money could go to much better uses than supporting our prison population. If we only had harsher penalties for the crimes people commit . . . The burden of proof (being innocent or guilty) most be 100% proven by some means and then don’t waste anymore time or money.

Do some DNA testing. If he did the crime, don`t bother wasting tax payers money. . . Give 48 hours to get with god (or what ever) and put him down!

Yes. N42 has square exhaust ports and a N47 has round exhaust ports. The N47 head (as far as I can remember) does not use a solid cam and oiling tube like the N42. I have used a square port header on the round port N47 head with no problems. I used 1 round port intake / exhaust gasket against the head and then a square port gasket against the header. No race motor, but I ran with this setup for a bit over 3 years with no problems or exhaust leaks. I would recommend using a good quality header with a nice thick flange with this setup. This info is for the Z N47 head, not the Maxima N47 head I heard of.

I have plans to use a longer cable (as datsunlover did), but run the cable inside the hatch (simular routing as datsunlover) and have the cable come back out of the hatch right where the hatch meets the inside top of the body (roof). Then mount the "hand pull" closer to the drivers door. This way the cable will be mostly unseen and out of the way. Will not have to worry about the extra cable hanging needed so the hatch can open.

When you pull the drums, look closely at the wheel cly. Carefully pull back the rubber seals on the wheel cly. If it looks moist, well . . . $ $ $

Ah yes, merging traffic. When did they rewrite the rules stating that merging traffic as the right of way? Well the ones that don`t stop entering traffic, come right on out into traffic at speed expecting you to make a place for them where there is no space. Gosh, if I could only plow right into these non-driving mofos and get a way with it. I`m getting a bad case of road rage more and more these days.