Synlubes

John, Are you getting the same "full flow" at the master and all 4 wheels? I did the 15/16 m/s install with no problems. You said the car sat for a period of time, what about the stock pro valve? Me personally, I would replace the stock unit with an asjustable one. It would give alittle adjustablity for the new brake setup. Much better than stock (IMO). Some here have said something about adjusting the rod for the master, but since I did not have to go that route I`ll let someone who did give some details.

How bout that puddy cat !!! Here kiddy kiddy And Steve, what do you do for a living? I’ve seen several pics of you with pretty and famous women.

I also would like to have some sort of "ram" device for the AWIPES that pull up so close at stops. Push a button, a ram comes out the back of my vehicle, puts a big ol whole in their radiator and I drive off leaving them standed.

I don`t like the fact that you have to get out of the forms to view the listings. I would much rather be able to view posts right along with buy / sell ads. Maybe not a 100 post limit but some means of knowing who’s a squatter and who’s not.

This is what I have done. I still have not refined and finished the install, but it works great. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/album?.dir=/Hatch+Release+Mod&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/my_photos This is a quick write up on the mod. Cable Pull Hatch Latch Here are some details on my cable operated hatch release. It is the first prototype, so things may change. (although, it works very well) Please note that this is open source information. Anyone with other ideas on making this mod, please update this information. Parts used - A stock 260Z hood release cable. (other cables am sure will work, I just had the hood release cable laying around so I used it) - Remove the interior hatch cover panel. - Remove the clip holding the hatch lock button and remove the lock button. - (With the lock button gone, you can now see down in to the hatch and view the lock mechanism). - (looking at the lock mechanism, thru the hole in the hatch) * Note the flat pad on the topside of the latch mechanism. - Remove the 2 bolts holding the latch mechanism in place. - (on the top side of the “flat padâ€) I made a center mark and used a drill bit to make an indent for the cable ball to rest in. (did not drill thru) - I cut a slot thru the center of the pad to the center point I had marked. - I then drilled a whole for the cable to come thru the hatch. - (with the latch mechanism in place) I just sighted a hole under the center of the “flat pad†on the latch mechanism and drilled a whole just large enough to allow the cable housing to pass thru. *** Very Important *** make sure you drill this whole in the hatch behind the seal surface, so the cable does not come in contact with hatch seal when the hatch is closed. (you can easily see the seal area marks) - Bring the cable up thru the hole drilled and back out the latch whole. (having about 3 inches of cable out of the latch whole) - Put the cable into the slot cut in the “flat pad†and crimp it. (I used vise grips to crimp the outer end on the “flat pad†to keep the cable from coming out) *** Important *** (DO NOT crimp until everything is working and you are ready for the final install) - Push cable back down thru its whole as you put the latch mechanism back in place. - Mount and adjust the latch mechanism. - Reinstall the rear hatch interior trim. - I used 2 small clamps to align and mount the cable in the interior. - I mounted the “cable pull handle†on the side panel just behind the driver’s seat. *** Important *** (the hatch needs to be open to determine the mounting location of the cable pull) That should give an idea of where to start if you care to do this mod. Doug Any ?`s, e-mail me valubes@yahoo.com .

Totally against it !

Car looks very nice!

If you stand looking at the Z from the side, the rear fender does apeer to have more gap at the back side of the tire than at the front. This is normal. (hope this is what you were referencing)

Sweet Pete! So whats the time line for the new engine install?

So we all know that you have plenty of green backs, but supporting another states economy. . . ? Bring that economy boost back home One of these days their going to get ya. . .

Car is looking SUPER sweet Ron. What type of paint and color is the interior? It looks like it may have some texture to it ??? Please keep the pics coming.

Head relisted on ebay with "super size" pics. Price has been reduced, again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2480674119&category=33617

Mark, post some pictures of the suspension Dave sent you.

I have a mint Nissan 81 turbo suppliment manual if anyone is interested. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/my_photos Look in the manuals album.

Where`s the pics? My bad, prices not pics.

The more I see that kid trying to jump in the pool, the more I feel for him or her. What a life lesson.

Half to full back on a road course, depending on conditions. If you have the time, change your mounting location for easy access. edit - I posted quickly and did not give much info. My 260 is a well prepared, mostly gutted track use car without coil overs and the L series engine still kick`n. It`s set up for track events and handles well for not being a "race car". I have the non-vented Toyota calipers up frt and drums in the rear. I use Carbotech (panther plus compound) pads and shoes and run Hoosier racing radials. And I do ajust the shoes after each outing (after a little cooling down)(the tire and brake compounds I run alone would make "my setting" differ from someone elses setting) John (as usual) said it best, test, try this / try that. I have been on track at Summit Point and VIR only (both several times). I find my settings to be pretty consistant at both tracks (with simular conditions, wheather, heat, etc.) Now as far as the placement of the pro valve, I wanted to be able to adjust the brake bias on the fly (if it rains I`m not coming in to make ajustments)(and by the way some of the best learned skills were on a wet track) I`m only offering my opinions, not what the "hot set up" is.

I`ll Take It! Great skills with the software! The front fenders look much better.

Looks like some top notch work. Would love to be able to see it in person.

Hard lessons to learn. But so true.

Have heard stories about parts (mostly glass stuff) from AZC, is he on the up & up to deal with as far as other "hard part" offerings?

I had been looking at these oil pans and viewed MSA site today and , price is now $524.95. Theses were $400.00 last I looked. I know Malvern Racing also sells (or sold) these same pans, but their site seems to be dead. just venting.

So Dale, how was the quality of the "maxi-fuse block" (part) you bought from the e-bay vender? And nice documentation by the way.

What are your thoughts on some fiberglass headlite buckets without the sugar scoop? Not just covers but the full headlite bucket assembly. And how much glass experience do you have? What parts have you made? Any pics of parts made?

Was this your first outing with the car, very respectable. And a helmet is a good idea regardless. Post up some pics.