Bartman

The real issues were due to the width of the rims I selected and wanting to run without any type of flares. It took shorter 8" springs on the rear in order to raise the lower perch above the tire, rolling the lips all around, and running spacers to get the wheels right where they needed to be. You can see and read a little more on my web site: http://mysite.verizon.net/ress1lhb/barts570z/id19.html.

Here's a couple pic's of my 18's: No fitment issues now, but it definitely took some work to get it that way.

So now I'm working almost every day sanding and filling and trying to get everything to be just right before I paint. The hardest part is getting the body line that starts close to the top and just to the rear of the front wheel arches back to the rear of the car, to be just right. This body line was almost nonexistent on the rear quarter panels, so I essentially have to recreate it. On the doors and front fenders the body wasn’t consistent with shallow dents just below it. I think this will be important to how the overall look of the car once it’s completed, so hopefully it’s worth all the time and effort.

To each his own, but I'm not really liking it too much. I think it ruins the lines, and seems kind of like a pickup truck. The front flows so well and then it just looks cut off on the back.

I like the look of that bumper. Is it just the bumper on eBay or the whole car? I wasn't able to find it.

It would obviously have to be: Clive "EvilC' Boyle, Jr.

I went with a genuine GM unit as well, and I don't think switching to an MSD will give you better performance. If you have a non-vented Opti, I think that switching to a vented would be your best option for NA applications and that's what I did on mine. jack46, I don't know what would be a good solution to your situation. Hope you figure it out and let us know how you did it.

Good write up and I agree 100%. There are plenty of posts here where people talk about having to increase the size of their fuel lines, and in a lot of cases I really don't think it's necessary. I'm running stock lines on my install and it works fine. As is stated in the post you referenced, if you have the proper pressure at the fuel rail - the fuel lines in conjunction with the fuel pump you're using - are just fine.

That engine looks great and I know it sounds great too. I've listened to it while it was tearing up the autocross track, and you can definitely hear it coming. It sounds especially mean up top when the course allows a little more speed, and Jeff stays in it bouncing off the rev limiter.

I installed the PCM for my LT1 engine in that area as well and started out with the Odyssey battery installed behind the passenger's seat. I eventually upgraded to an Optima as the Odyssey let me down a few times. It worked fine at first, but after a while it would die if it couldn't start the engine right away. Searching around I found some people refer to the Odyssey as good for light duty or warm weather, but no where near what you get from an Optima.

I forwarded you what I received

Yes. Now let's see some pic's and more info.

Looks good! I'm running the same hood with conventional hood pins, and they work nice as well. On a different subject, what are you doing to keep your hood in the open position?

Another option would be to use a plastic glove box from a 280Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124223 I did this on my 73 and it works great!

Here's mine

I agree. I think you just need to swap your calipers. BTW - I have the ZX calipers and they're in the front as well.

As most people know S30's have a nice body line that runs almost the entire length of the car starting just above and behind the front wheel openings and running back to just before the taillight panel. I'm currently sanding and prepping for paint and the body line is missing from most of the left rear quarter panel. Anyone have good advice on how to get this body line back? I've heard something about using tape, but I'm not quite sure what the procedure is. I've sanded the area down and applied filler over the area, and I'm thinking of attempting to sand down the filler only above the body line. Once that part is right, then I'll apply blue tape to where the body line should be and sand up to it. Does this make sense?

Another satisfied recipient of parts from David. He gave me a very good deal on the complete LS1 fuel tank I'm currently using on my Z. I'll have to extend the dinner offer for the SoCal area as well!

Since so many people are recommending and posting pic's of the shaved look, I thought I'd chime in for bumpers. I like the look of bumpers and went with the early Euro style bumper without the provisions for rubber strips.

240Z’s had a somewhat revolutionary (for the time) flow-through ventilation system integrated into the design. The intake vents are below the dash on either side and are individually operated with push and pull type knobs. One of the problems was that the exit vents on the hatch tended to suck in the exhaust fumes. On later models the exit vents were move to the sides (underneath the emblems), but the exhaust fume problem remained.

I don't know if it will work on this kit, but on other brake swaps using the right cable on the left side and vice versa prevents the need for any brake cable modifications.

I've never heard of Zirgo, but Vintage Air uses pulley driven compressors. If you search for Vintage Air you can find detailed information about installing these units. I installed one in my car, and although I'm using a V8 much of the installation process is the same regardless of what motor you use.

I'm running an LT1 and the main reason for selecting the LT1 over an LSx engine is the ease and cost of the swap into a 240Z. LT1 engines can use the same JTR kit as any other SBC. LSx swaps require a different solution that will likely be more costly, require you to have fabricaton skills, or both.