BluDestiny

You ever get the engine back together and in?

I'm going to buy one and import it and be a cool guy lol

My 260z had the AC installed by the PO, and he had a switch under the dash board.

I've used two junkyard engines in my friends cars. We literally pulled the engine/tranny, put it in a truck, brought it back and dropped it in same day and did nothing more than a really good tuneup/fluid flush. worked fine and pulled hard. These engines are bullet proof That being said you need to look for half decent engines in the JY. Don't go buying one with everything open to the element or a bunch of rust, and look for telltale signs of overheating/running with no oil (hot spots on the cams, leaking head gaskets etc.) That engine looks like a great candidate since it's all sealed up etc. I would first put like a quart of oil in, then take a breaker bar and check if it turns over freely, and if you have time or its not going anywhere I would do a compression test. just rent a tester from an auto store and take it to the junkyard. Also I don't know if you're planning on trying to make the stock efi work, but if you aren't you could always convert to carbs

It will. It won't be pretty, and if you have no welding experience it will suck and you'll need to practice a lot. Search craigslist first for a used lincoln or miller welder around the $300-400 price range

Do you have an RB 25 or 26? and what mount kit did you use that is making it cramped? Also are you using an aftermarket intake?

Glass? There is nothing glass in the steering column.....but it sounds like there was something stuck in there.

What wheels are you going to put on?

Pretty sure the stock turbo starts losing efficiency at 12psi. At that point you should be watching your intake temps. What shop is it?

Yes, they come with the heim joint bushings, and all the nuts and stuff needed. When you first put them in you can match the length, but I took it for an alignment because I wanted to run less caster (quicker turn in and I needed it for my tires to clear the Gnose and sideskirts). They are one of the few things adjustable in the front end of the car. Nothing in the rear is adjustable. So if someone says 4 wheel alignment, they are ripping you off, get only the front. The thing is when you get coilovers, the height needs (or at least really close, I used a micrometer between the collars) to be the same in the front and rear or it will throw off your camber in the front and your camber/toe in the rear. You can put the TC rods in anytime you want, they are a 1 hour job. and really once you have the front struts set up (cut, welded up and with a hub/brake rotor on) the take like 30 min and the rears about the same. What are you doing about the top hat in the rear?

wait did you sAy the guy thinks you shouldn't pay more than $1000 for it? Get it for $1000 then. Honestly it probably needs brakes and all new suspension components to ride halfway decent.

go borrow a timing light from an autozone, If you just try and "listen" to it either way it will basically just sound/run like crap if the timing is getting messed with.

Since no one has said it yet, clean all the electrical contacts. There could be some shorting somewhere from rust/corrosion. More that likely you just need a new battery, but it won't hurt you to clean the wiring.

I would never buy a kit from any company like CXracing or godspeed etc. I do have an intercooler, and I had it checked for pinholes which they are known for having (same as ebay crap). Sorry about what happened.

They do wonders if your old tc rod bushings are shot. What's your time frame to getting the coilovers in your car?

How much did they run you? Also the rears look ike they're for an s14, but maybe it's just the length of the tube. Those are s13 coilovers right?

It's an 82 so it has a manual. If the build date is after august/september I believe it was sold as the next year model. My vin plate says november 79, but the window sticker and manual say 80.

I used x8 -13 up front, with a 225/50/16, mostly flush.

Weren't you in Texas? And where in NJ? My gf lives in Princeton

Check all the bushings(rack and steering coumn), grease it, check the tie rods.

Wait so you're saying you removed the cover bolts, and loosened the nut that attachs it to the insulator? I would take a mallet and whack the cover pretty good. It would slide right down and you'd be able to move it enough to take it off. Can you post a pick of how its stuck?

An 8 would be great up front. I would run a 225 in the rear and a 215 in the front

Racing lab sells rkr's, just not in your size. You may be able to contact them and see if they can source a set for you.

I just bought some rubber strips at a local harware store and used those inbetween the rad and the rad support. Never had issues and it was like that for almost a year and a half before I sold my car.

I would take that off and put a plate on the bottom so it doesn't cover the hole. What kind of welder did you get?